Calling Card for Wine Travellers

Grab a pad and make a checklist of all the things you want to find on your next wine adventure: let it be conveniently located near a major international airport; have first-class accommodations and dining; have spectacular scenery with an eco-friendly edge; and have a well-organized, well-signed wine route that guarantees warm welcomes in wineries ranging from garagiste to commercially significant, from traditional to avant garde. Let there also be leisure diversions for the less-fanatic other half, like hiking, cycling, spas, shopping in quaint boutiques and shark-cage diving (!). And, last but not least, let there be, of course, world-class wines.

Sounds like a tall order, but if this list trips all of your switches (especially the shark-diving part), look no further than Stellenbosch, South Africa. This charming, well-preserved town, the second oldest in colonial South Africa, dating back to 1679, is synonymous with first-rate South African wines, and it's rapidly establishing itself as one of the top wine capitals and wine tourism destinations in the world.

The small university town of Stellenbosch, named for Simon van der Stel, the successor to Cape pioneer and Dutch East India Company man Jan van Riebeeck, lies a short 20-minute drive from Cape Town International Airport. Van der Stel established the outlying village, whose name loosely translates to "Stel in the woods," just a couple of decades after Cape Town was founded. He planted vines in order to supply the growing demand for Cape wine by passing merchant ships.

Wander the streets today and admire open-air art installations and the quaint spectacle of cottages in the Cape Dutch style of architecture, juxtaposed with the modern buildings of Stellenbosch University. SU is home to more than 23,000 students, and is one of the most highly regarded institutions in Africa, with the best viticulture and winemaking program on the continent.

Visitors will be pleased with the range and quality of accommodation and dining options. "There is a constant stream of new guest houses, up-market boutique hotels and outstanding restaurants," says Ken Forrester of Ken Forrester Vineyards, a top local chenin blanc specialist and a strong advocate for the region. In fact, three of South Africa's top-rated restaurants are based in Stellenbosch: Rust & Vrede, Terroir at Kleine Zalze and Overture at Hidden Valley.

But it's not just the food and the lodging that draw visitors to the region. The Great Wine Capitals Association sees Stellenbosch garner an impressive list of awards each year. Recent accolades include the naming of Waterford Wine Estate for Excellence in Cellar Door Experience, Vergelegen as tops for its gardens and architecture and Delheim for its practices of sustainability. If you like a bigger party, the annual Stellenbosch Wine Festival (held from July 3 to August 2 this year) is the biggest regional wine festival under one roof.

The Stellenbosch Wine Routes, established in 1971 and now sponsored by American Express, was the first of its kind in the country and remains the most popular amongst locals and visitors. From rather humble beginnings, it now boasts nearly 150 members.

"Wine tourism is the buzz word at the moment, and Stellenbosch is at the forefront," says Annareth Bolton, CEO of Stellenbosch Wine Routes. "We are known as the wine tourism pioneers." Many wineries have extended their hours of operation and have recognized competitiveness in the global market means a more sophisticated and complete experience for wine enthusiasts, including food and live entertainment.

Beyond adapting to become tourist destinations, much has changed at these wineries over the last 15 years in terms of the wine itself. Despite the fact South Africa is celebrating its 350th anniversary of wine making this year (the first wine grapes were pressed here on February 2, 1659, according to van Riebeeck's diary), the modern industry is barely a decade and a half old. Severe international trade sanctions against the pro-apartheid government ended only after democratic elections in 1994, so the export experience of producers is limited.

"Winemakers emerged on the international markets as newcomers with loads to learn. South Africans, making wines in South Africa, for the South African market was not a broad qualification," states Forrester. The turnaround, however, has been dramatic.

The traditional co-operative wine production structure of the industry is rapidly being abandoned, and the trend of grower-bottled boutique labels is altering the landscape. Dozens of new operations open their doors each year, many of which have the superb winemaking and hospitality facilities that come at great capital expense.

"Not only locals, but also big-name investors from overseas have put their faith in Stellenbosch," remarks Waterkloof Winery winemaker Werner Engelbrecht. "This has not only led to greater diversity in styles but has certainly spruced up the quality of our wines, in general."

Overall, more than one-third of the vineyards in South Africa have been replanted in the last seven years, and there has been a significant shift to red varieties. "Bordeaux varieties are still the most widely planted, but Rhône varieties, especially shiraz, are coming to the fore," says Engelbrecht.

Stellenbosch is unquestionably closely tied to excellent-quality cabernet sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends, though the story hardly ends there. The district encompasses many site-specific terroirs related to elevation, aspect, soil type and relative proximity to the coast. "The meso-climate is probably close to optimal for South African conditions, but diversity is the order of the day," says Johann Krige of the historic Kanonkop Estate.

Engelbrecht agrees: "Stellenbosch is very diverse. The next 10 years will give us a much better idea of which cultivar is best suited for which area."

Aside from Bordeaux and Rhône grapes, the South African specialty pinotage, as well as sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and especially chenin blanc are important varieties with the potential to make world-class wines in the right places. The diversity of Stellenbosch is reflected in the ongoing subdivision of the district into ever-smaller sub-appellations, called wards. At present, there are no fewer than seven: Jonkershoek Valley, Papegaaiberg, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch, Bottelary, Devon Valley, Banghoek and the latest, Polkadraai Hills. While the international market is certainly not ready for such fine distinctions, it is an important right of passage in a bid to be taken seriously by the wine world.

As many of the recently planted vineyards mature, with varieties and terroirs better matched up, and as the world awakens to the quality and value offered by many of the unique specialties, like old-vine chenin blanc and well-crafted pinotage, the prospects for Stellenbosch wines abroad and tourism back home look very smart, indeed. "I do believe that the name Stellenbosch is our USP," says Bolton. "International buyers recognize the word Stellenbosch before they do South Africa." She may be right, and exciting times are here for wine drinkers ready to explore.