Georgia: One of the world's oldest wine-producing countries

It’s three o’clock in the morning, or maybe four, and there’s a traffic jam at the Tbilisi airport. Horns are honking. Lights are bright. Hundreds, maybe even thousands of people, buses, taxis and cars are rushing to pick up friends, family and sleepy tourists. We stand in line. We are hugged by strangers. And, eventually, we find beds to sleep for what’s left of the night.

Welcome to Georgia, I think. Welcome to Georgia.

This tiny country — which borders Azerbaijan, Armenia and Turkey to the south, the Black Sea to the west and Russia to the north and east — has been reinventing itself after 70 years under Communist rule as part of the Soviet Union.

And, yes, wine is part of the picture.

“When I started importing Georgian wine, people would say, ‘This is from Russia,’ and I’d say, ‘No, Georgia is its own country with its own wine and culture,” says Alla Wagner, the Calgary-based co-owner of Lotus Vini & Spirits.

“But 10 years later, it’s coming into its own.”

Georgia's Winemaking History

Slowly, slowly. While few North American wine drinkers may have heard of it, the country boasts one of the world’s oldest wine cultures; archeologists have unearthed vitis vinifera pips and other evidence of winemaking dating back 8,000 years, to the fifth and sixth centuries BC, and wine exporting has taken place there for more than 2,500 years.

Christianity has also been linked with winemaking since its introduction in Georgia, around 300 AD; today, the monks at the country’s monasteries have been some of the greatest protectors of Georgian wine traditions.

And there are many; Georgia is especially renowned for an ancient form of winemaking that uses qvevris, clay “jars” (some hold up to 9,000 litres) lined with beeswax, filled with crushed grapes and juice, and then buried in the ground — originally done, some speculate, to control temperatures and to protect the wine from invaders.

These days, many smaller wineries are still using the traditional ways and grapes; the country boasts more than 500 indigenous varieties, many of which are being researched and documented at the National Centre for Grapevine and Fruit Tree Planting Material Propagation in Saguramo.

Most North American wine fans, however, likely couldn’t name a single Georgian grape — or find the country on a map of the world.

“For the most part, Georgian culture is underappreciated in the West,” says American importer Darrell Corti. “It just lies there, waiting to be discovered.”

But judging by the traffic jam at the Tbilisi airport, people are starting to discover it — and along the way, they’re finding one of the world’s earliest wine cultures, too.

Main Grapes in Georgia

While Georgians claim more than 500 indigenous grape varieties, only a handful are known outside of the country. Here are four that can be found in the Canadian market:

Rkatsiteli — A popular, food-friendly white primarily used in Georgia’s Kakheti region.

Kisi — A white variety that can make delicate and beautifully aromatic wines.

Saperavi — A red grape that makes rich, lush wines, which can be dry or semi-dry. Wines show great potential for aging.

Mtsvane Kakhuri — A popular white variety.

Pretend you’re in Georgia

Track down the following documentaries for a behind-the-scenes look at the Georgian wine scene:

Cradle of Wine, directed by Merab Kokochashvili — An interesting documentary about the origins of Georgian wine. Lots of art, music, culture, interviews. Subtitles.

That Crazy French Woman…In Georgia, directed by Master of Wine Isabelle Legeron — A fascinating look at ancient Georgian winemaking traditions today.

Georgian Producers in the Canadian Market

Not many Georgian wines are for sale in Canada, but look for the following:

Pheasant’s Tears

Co-owned by John Wurdeman, an American who travelled to Georgia to paint, but fell in love and stayed. Pheasant’s Tears makes traditional qvevri wines, fermented in massive clay jars buried in the ground. Imported into Alberta by Lotus Vini Inc., and soon to be in B.C.

Tbilvino Wines

Tbilvino has been making wines since 1962. (The wines have won awards at the Wine Access International Value Wine Awards, most recently in 2011.) Wines are made from indigenous Georgian grapes, as well as international varieties. Select wines in Alberta and Ontario; as of press time, the wines are to be in B.C. in 2012.

If you go to Georgia

If you go If you hold a Canadian passport, you do not need a visa to visit Georgia, but you do need a passport that is valid for at least six months upon entry into the country.

Schuchmann Wines Chateau Kisiskhevi

District of Telavi, +995-790-55-70-45 or +995-593-71-88-58

With an incredible view of the Caucasus mountains, this winery has a restaurant and a small, but well-equipped on-site hotel.

Chateau Mukhrani

Mukhrani, Mtskheta, sales@mukhrani.com, +995-32-51-43-40

Dating back to 1878, much of this beautiful estate was left to collapse during the Soviet era, but is now undergoing a rebirth. The winery — which makes wines from traditional Georgian grapes as well as international varietals including chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon — is open for tastings. Construction is underway for a high-end hotel and restaurant, as well as a riding arena, tennis courts and more.

Explore Georgia

info@exploregeorgia.com, +995-32-2921-911

A friendly, English-speaking fellow named Nick Erkomaishvili, pictured at right, heads up this tour company, which offers everything from culinary and wine tours to back-country ski and hiking trips.

GeorgiCa Travel

info@georgicatravel.ge, +995-32-225-21-99

A company with English-speaking guides, offering wine tours, as well as cultural and adventure tours of Georgia and surrounding countries.