A New Era at Château Pichon-Longueville (Baron)

Ten vintages from a top Bordeaux producer

by Jeff Davis

In November 2004 a vertical tasting of Bordeaux second growth Château Pichon-Longueville (Baron) was held in Toronto. Christian Seely, general director of the Château, guided the participants through a selection of 10 vintages ranging from 1988 to 2002. Over this period, Seely had overseen the revival of Pichon as a top producer from the region following the 1987 takeover by AXA Millesimes.

Pichon-Longueville was once part of the same estate as Pichon Comtesse-de Lalande. The two separate entities lie just west of Château Latour at the southern end of the Pauillac commune in Bordeaux. The cuvée tends to be approximately 75 per cent cabernet sauvignon and 25 per cent merlot with aging in 80 per cent new French oak barrels. The wines normally combine dark fruit, spice and creamy richness from the barrels, full body and a firm tannic structure. Since 1988, the Château has demonstrated an ability to work sensibly within the parameters of each vintage.

A Summary of the Tasting
91 Points
PICHON 2002
Aromas of plum, dried fruit and herbs with a whiff of vanilla. Shy on the nose but cassis, cherry and vanilla are evident. Still tight but should open up and evolve. The structure is there. Harmonious on the palate. Good length.

92 Points
PICHON 2001
A classic Medoc loaded with fragrance, depth and beautifully integrated wood and mineral elements. Aromas of coffee cream, dark fruit, floral and toasted herb nuances. Blackberry, cassis and dried cherry fill the mouth. Good acidity and a sound framework. Impressive length. Drink 2008 to 2020.

93 Points
PICHON 2000
Quite full blown and ripe with cherry, black currant jam, herbal tea and coffee nuances. Ripe and full in the mouth with excellent balance and length. Tannins are well hidden. Superb concentration from a great year. The flowering period, summer and fall were outstanding. Unquestionably age-worthy. Impressive structure, concentration and length. Drink 2012 to 2030.

89 Points
PICHON 1999
199 was not a good cabernet year as September and October were not cooperative. The merlot was quite good, so a higher percentage (37 per cent) was added to the blend. The rest was 60 per cent cabernet sauvignon with a bit of cabernet franc. The wine is characterized by cassis, cherry, herbal tea and plum notes. Silky and elegant with impressive balance. Good length and drinking well now. One to enjoy while other wines in the cellar are evolving. Drink now to 2012.

89 Points
PICHON 1998
Humidity and subsequent rot posed a challenge. Meticulous selection in the vineyard and bunch thinning was a necessity. Aromas of cassis, cherry, dried cherry, mocha and wood spice. Powerful and preserved with a firm tannic structure. Good fruit. Needs time and should improve. Plenty of complexity and length. In the context of 1998, it was a good Medoc red. Drink 2008 to 2015.

90 Points
PICHON 1996
A harmonious wine that has entered prime time. This was a good cabernet year with excellent conditions in September and October. Cassis, plum, black cherry and cedar aromas. Quite age-worthy but not tough and tannic so it drinks well now. Good interplay of fruit, acidity, tannic structure and alcohol. Drink now to 2012.

94 Points
PICHON 1995
From a dry year in which the vines were stressed and the grapes were fairly small. The ripening in the dry month of August was hindered but rain arrived at the end of the month to finish the season on a positive note. The cabernet responded to this upturn late in the season. This wine was tough and tannic in its youth but has started to open up a bit. Aromas of cherry, cassis, cedar, licorice with a few floral notes. Good acidity and tannic structure with some fruit and oak coming out well. Good length. Still evolving. Drink 2010 to 2025.

88 Points
PICHON 1993
Aromas of coffee cream, black cherry, cassis, dried herbs and tea. Not a classic year but it shows off the terroir fairly well and benefitted from the growing season lasting through September. There is a certain greenness about the tannins. The rough edges apparent in its youth are now gone and this is drinking well now. Good fruit, acidity, and herbal tea complexity. Well-balanced with good length. Drink until 2008.

93 Points
PICHON 1989
A ripe and big wine from the hot 1989 summer growing season. Complex and generous nose of dried fruit, herbs, black cherry and earthy overtones with a hint of soy sauce. Dark fruit and herbal complexity met by lively acidity and good tannins. Good length with plenty of concentration in terms of fruit and oak. Not a typical Pichon. Lots of power and heft. Drink now to 2020.

91 Points
PICHON 1988
A fine sample with charming greenness and freshness from not being overly ripe. An old-fashioned, classic Bordeaux. Aromas of cranberry, cherry, red currant, herbal tea, coffee cream and wood spice. Mix of ripe, tangy and dried fruit with some earthy complexity. Dark fruit and nut cream linger on the finish. A solid wine from a solid vintage. Drinking very nicely at the present time and will hold until 2009 or 2010.