On the Road: Paso Robles

Halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, very near San Luis Obisopo, sits Paso Robles. Less than 15 kilometres from the Pacific Ocean at its western edges, it is intersected by the Salinas River, and features two distinctive climates: one cooler (west) and one warmer (east).  These distinctions are vital to the wines that are grown and made here, but any visitor will more likely notice the overall temperate conditions, the bucolic agricultural heart of the region and its warm, friendly attitude.

The areas' wineries now number more than 170, and you can chart a daily list of proximate wineries to visit, taking in all the aspects of the viticultural region: the Rhône-style wines, and the zinfandel and petite syrahs, often done in intense, full-blown versions that are sure to intrigue almost any palate. Still, a visit to one of the area's pioneers, the Justin Winery, is a must. It is nestled in the hills just out of town, a charming, meandering 20 minutes or so. Have lunch or dinner in the elegant dining room, but do take the tour, and perhaps try, along with their flagship wines, one of the lesser-known varieties that they offer, such as sangiovese or tempranillo.

Other must-visits include Tablas Creek, L'Aventure, Peachy Canyon and Robert Hall. Call ahead for times, and make appointments where necessary. In fact, appointments are always a good idea. Mid-March is Zinfandel Festival time, and early May is the Hospices du Rhône. Both festivals retain the charm of the area, while offering plenty of opportunity to taste wines and meet the people who make them.

Along with wine, there are many agricultural excursions to be had. There is a thriving olive and olive oil industry, in which Pasolivo is a leader. They also have a nice restaurant in town.

Olea Farm Olives and Tiber Canyon Ranch are good bets, as well, and you will get a great understanding of how different styles can be. At Jack Creek Farms, almost any vegetable you can think of is grown organically, and you can make a visit memorable by picking some of your own.  The Cal Poly Organic Farm, run by the California Polytechnic State University, is also a fascinating place.

The Paso Robles downtown square has previous-era charm, and a quaint element that makes it a great pleasure simply to stroll about the place. It is home to many artisans, and a lot of good, and increasingly good, eating. Artisan has been bursting at the seams ever since it opened; and the Kobayashi brothers, Chris as chef and Michael at the front of house, are doing things here that would not be out of place in San Francisco's fine dining scene. Also, make sure to check out Villa Creek, where Erick Cadena might surprise you with fresh sardines and a special vino vehrde, or please you with a perfectly marinated flank steak.

With all the wine and fine food, it is always nice to know you can drop into Chico's Café each morning for great coffee and omelettes, so you can get another day underway in full style.

Accommodations include, among others, the lovely, new boutique Hotel Cheval, which features 16 rooms, and three stupendous outdoor patio fireplaces, in front of which you can recount the day's events, and sip one of the wine treasures you discovered.

Paso Robles retains much of its original, rustic charm, but it is a city and a region that is developing into a real destination, for oenophiles certainly, but even for more casual visitors, who are certain to appreciate the welcoming demeanour, great flavours and agricultural roots that still drive the economy; not to mention the fact that a few days spent here will redefine what a relaxing, but fascinating, explorative vacation can be. Drive from the big city, or fly into San Luis Obispo Airport.

Jim Tobler joined Wine Access as executive editor in December, 2006. Prior to joining Wine Access, Jim was for six years the editor, and previously managing editor, of NUVO magazine, Canada 's premier and original super-luxury publication. Before that, he taught English at Simon Fraser University, and wrote reviews on music, film, food and wine for various publications and for radio. Jim holds a master's degree from Simon Fraser, is a notoriously hard worker, a world traveller and is an esteemed and award-winning feature writer.
"Paso Robles: A taste-filled region emerges" originally appeared in the April/May 2008 issue of Wine Access magazine.
Photo of Paso Robles city marquee by Richard Baker.