Editors' Picks: Sonoma

When asked to write about a favourite wine region, I immediately thought of Prince Edward County, where I live in eastern Ontario. But I am almost too close to it for this exercise. There is a place I love to visit, though, that actually has some of the same allure as Prince Edward County (PEC) and 25 years ago was very much like how PEC is today.

Chock full of delicious, diverse and passionately rendered wines, few places are more attractive than California's Sonoma County. I first camped out (literally) in Sonoma in a state park in 1984 and visited almost every winery then in existence - there were perhaps 30 back then. Now there are closer to 200, if you count the many new small virtual labels (wineries without their own vineyards) that help make the region so interesting.

All wine regions begin with geography, and I love the geography of Sonoma - with its over-the-next-hill, round-the-next-bend, through-that-next-forest sense of anticipation.

Some regions are quite linear, including Napa Valley next door - you always know what's next. In Sonoma, the next sight could be an old general store, the winding Russian River, a meadow or orchard, towering redwoods, undulating vineyards or the shocking vastness of the Pacific Ocean.

The same sense of anticipation and surprise is found inside the bottle. The diverse geography of Sonoma results in perhaps the most diverse wine portfolio in California. There are 13 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) or official appellations, but it's easier to think of it is as thee main climatic zones, each quite different from the others, and offering up different varietal strengths.

Foremost, there are the cool-climate pinot noirs and chardonnays from the maritime AVAs of Sonoma Coast, Russian River and Carneros. If you wanted to hang just one label on Sonoma as a whole, to differentiate it from other California regions, the Burgundy varieties are its soul. And if you are a pinot noir and chardonnay fan, Sonoma County is a slam dunk attention-grabber. Among the global range of pinot noirs, I love the style of Russian River pinot in particular, which seems to combine the best of New Worldand Burgundy influences. Likewise, Sonoma chardonnay, which I think is the best in the United States.

Then there are the more temperate AVAs, somewhat removed from the ocean, but still flirting with its influence: Sonoma Valley, Sonoma Mountain, Bennett Valley and Chalk Hill. Centred between bustling Santa Rosa and the historic town of Sonoma, this is the heart of Sonoma, and here the varietal spectrum shifts to middle ground with merlot and sauvignon blanc. There is something magically gentle about this part of the county, personified by the biodynamic enterprise at Benziger in a vale near the picturesque village of Glen Ellen.

The warmest AVAs are to the north, in spur valleys of the Russian River blocked from ocean influences by coastal mountains. The Alexander Valley and Knights Valley are the furthest inland and warmest in Sonoma, giving rise to full-bodied, rich cabernet sauvignons, zinfandels and Rhône varieties, many now taking on better grip and minerality as vineyards creep up the hillsides above the valley floor. The Dry Creek Valley, Northern Sonoma and Rockpile AVAs are full of old, gnarled zinfandel vineyards producing some of the thickest reds in the state.

Sonoma's geography is the bedrock of its diversity, but its driving force is the passion of the winemakers. I know - every wine region has passion. But in Sonoma that passion remains grounded in the wines, as opposed to a passion for the lifestyle and trappings, for which neighbouring Napa has become famous (or infamous). Sonomans are quick to define themselves as not-Napans, and modesty here is a virtue. This doesn't preclude tastefulness, but ostentation is rare.

On my most recent visit in the spring of 2009, I saw that passion at work in the on-rush of new tiny wineries, or virtual wineries. A quick trip to Sonoma Wine Shop on the plaza in the centre of Sonoma revealed an explosion of labels. Most are not made in enough quantity to be commercially sustaining, so these wines are being made by passionate purists who want to delve into new single vineyard sites, new blends or new techniques, or who just want to scratch the winemaking itch without having to conform to what the larger community is doing commercially.

One such enterprise is Canadian-owned Tin Barn, whose winery is located in an industrial park on the southern outskirts of Sonoma. A dozen virtual wineries occupy this wine park, often getting together to share equipment, ideas and even communal public tastings, which they set up in the parking lot. It's not romantic, but there is certain pragmatism and focus at work here that, to me, is emblematic of Sonoma's spirit.         

Make sure to check out the rest of our editors' picks:

An introduction by Anthony Gismondi

Sicily

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Chardonnay

Cabernet Franc

Riesling

Maison Louis Jadot

Viña Montes

Seghesio Vineyards