The 2011 Hot List: Bordeaux

Perusing the shelves at Vignobles & Château, one of a whopping 85 wine stores in the historic village of St. Émilion, population 200, offers the first clue that there is change in Bordeaux.

Tucked into the rows of well-known labels, the new wave of modern-styled Bordeaux jumps out from the traditional labels that haven’t changed much in a hundred years or more.

The new wave is a growing collection of wines made for younger wine lovers looking for affordable, ready-to-drink bottles.

One such wine is Bad Boy Bordeaux, which features a cartoon label of a sheep leaning on a “garage” sign. Whimsical, yes, but this red costs less than $30, and it’s good. It’s the venture of Jean-Luc Thunevin, a leader in the garagistes wine movement, which focuses on developing bolder, fruitier wines made to drink now.

The gulf between classified wineries and those of lesser stature grows wider with each vintage in Bordeaux.

Outside the main appellations in Bordeaux, the word “crisis” is discussed openly. Small producers aren’t selling in the lucrative North American markets because of the availability of solid, approachable and affordable wines from New World producers.

While the big names in Bordeaux will continue to make wines as they have for centuries, smaller producers, which far outnumber the classified châteaux, must modernize to compete internationally.

Bordeaux hasn’t had to change much over the centuries. It’s enjoyed a long run of making the world’s most sought-after wines. But economics, contemporary winemaking techniques and emerging wine regions have forced many wineries to change their ways.

On a recent trip for media to the region, winery staff organized a canoe trip down the Ciron River, followed by a tasting of sweet Sauternes. Other wineries offer cycling trips through the vineyards.

It’s an effort to make Bordeaux wines more accessible. And it’s a matter of survival.

Prominent Wine Regions in Bordeaux

On the left bank of the Garonne River: St. Julien, Graves, Pessac Léognan.

On the right bank of the Dordogne River: St.Émilion, Pomerol, Fronsac.

Where the Garonne and Ciron rivers meet: Sauternes-Barsac.

French Varietals/Wine Styles on the Rise

Blending is governed by law, but many wineries avoid rules by making non-specific appellation wines that they feel are more modern.

French Varietals/Wine Styles on the Decline

The sweet wines of Bordeaux.

Classic Wine Producers in France

Château Latour: One of the world’s most collectible labels, Latour makes profound wines in the high-rent Pauillac appellation.

Château Pontet-Canet: Also from Pauillac, the fifth-growth Bordeaux produces consistent wines above its pedigree.

Château d’Arche: A second-growth sweet white from Sauternes shows off the appellation at half the price of its famous neighbours.

Up-and-Coming Wine Producers in France

Clos Fourtet: A grand cru classé St. Émilion is a rising star under owner Philippe Cuvelier.

Château Tertre Daugay: This once-great producer is back on the road to success.

Château La Lagune: A third-growth Haut-Médoc continues to amaze Bordeaux lovers with the superb 2009 vintage. A smart buy.

Check out more than 3,300 reviews from France.

Photo courtesy of CIVB/Haut Relief