Treasury Wine Estates

These interviews are part of our feature on winemaking families from the June/July 2011 issue.

With roots in Australia dating back to 1844, Penfolds offers a range of red and white wines, including the renowned Grange, one of the world's most iconic wines.

Peter Gago, the chief winemaker for Penfolds, did a stint as a high school science teacher before becoming an award-winning winemaker.

And Oliver Crawford worked with Gago at Penfolds, first as the red winemaker, then as the senior white winemaker. While the two still work under the umbrella of Treasury Wine Estates (formerly Foster's), Crawford is now the winemaker at Devil’s Lair Winery in Margaret River, Australia.

Peter Gago, Penfolds

Q: Tell me about the moment you knew you were going to be successful as a winemaker.

A: Survival of my first “real” vintage,  away from the books and safety-blanket. Autonomous, sink or swim, and, thankfully, no major mistakes!

Q: When it comes to winemaking, what is your passion?

A: Finding that special parcel of fruit and creating something above and beyond, sometimes as a singular expression, sometimes as a critical, synergistic component in a blend.

Q: What do you want people to remember about your wines?

A: [That they are] real wines that last. Longevity, coupled with a high “drinkability index.”

Q: What are your hopes for the future of your winery, say 30 to 50 years down the road?

A: Penfolds has been in the business of making wine for 167 years. Initially family-owned, it survived its early years as a publicly traded company without much drama. The Penfolds winemaking and viticultural teams have been an autonomous, closely knit and dedicated team throughout, and one that puts wine first. May this continue.

Q: Is there anyone in the wine industry — dead or alive — you wish you could  have worked with? Why?

A: [Legendary Penfolds winemaker] Max Schubert, who passed away in 1994. [I admired] his vision, skill and ability to implement change. Ditto, [former Penfolds chief chemist] Dr. Ray Beckwith, currently 99 years old. Scientific acumen, team player, gentleman.

Q: What do you do when you’re not making wine?

A: Drinking and sharing wine — and dining. Surely, this is why we work — to support this lifestyle! Hobbies — music (all forms), running, travel.

Q: What are your thoughts on organic/biodynamic wine production?

A: Organic — yes. Biodynamic — mostly yes. Dealing with climate change and the extremes dealt by Mother Nature also requires intermittent intervention of other modes.

Q: What do you keep in your cellar?

A: I was a wine collector long before I was a winemaker. I’ve been collecting wines now for over a third of a century. How can I be that old? In the cellar are bottles of every colour and character. As a self-confessed champagne addict, I have a larger-than-expected “corner” spanning the decades. French, Italian, Spanish, German, Austrian wines sit comfortably alongside those of Australia — some going way back. Canada, too. Favourites? Too many for this article.

Oliver Crawford, Devil's Lair

Q: How did you get your start in the industry?

A: My father purchased a property in Orange, New South Wales [250 kilometres west of Sydney] and, with my help, we planted 30 acres of vines and started making wine. I fast realized that making wine is easier on the back than growing grapes.

Q: What was your big break? Tell me about the moment you knew you’d made it — that you were going to be successful — as a winemaker.

A: I guess when I was accepted as a red winemaker at Penfolds. Working at Penfolds is considered a pinnacle. However, personally, I feel that the big moment was when I took over the senior white winemaking position at Penfolds.

Q: When it comes to winemaking, what is your passion?

A: Chardonnay — it is such a wonderful variety. It makes truly magical wines.  There is so much that you can do with it from so many different regions.

Q: What do you want people to remember about your wines?

A: I want them to remember the moment: who they enjoyed the wine with, the place, the occasion. A good wine is only good if it is shared with people you enjoy being around.

Q: What are your hopes for the future of your winery, say 30 to 50 years down the road?

A: A sustainable industry that cares for the environment and the people we sell to. I am very much against unsustainable growing and making of wine, and I am very much against making “passion pop.” Wine is more than that!

Q: What do you do when you’re not making wine?

A: I love cooking and fishing (or any beach activity). I end up feeding the fish!

Q: What are your thoughts on organic/biodynamic wine production?

A: As an industry, we should all be aiming to grow in a sustainable manner. I support organic and biodynamic, but I also realize that it is not always possible given the vagaries of Mother Nature. At Devil’s Lair, we aim to grow and make our wines organically. We follow the principles and practices of organic growing, but we are not certified because, from time to time, we employ practices that are not certified.