Pinot Noir

Notoriously finicky, fussy about where it is planted, sensitive, demanding, headstrong and prone to hissyfits in the winery, pinot noir would not be worth the trouble if it wasn't capable of such mindboggling brilliance when everything goes right. When it does (2005 in Burgundy for instance,) all is immediately forgiven. No other grape can match the sensuality and depth of complexity that pinot gives to the greatest Burgundies. At their best, they are worth their massive prices for texture alone. Profoundly important in Champagne, for both white and rosé versions. Hugely celebrated in Oregon, New Zealand (especially Central Otago) and the Sonoma Coast. Now well established in other appropriately cool locations around the world, from the Yarra Valley in Australia to San Antonio in Chile, California's Central Coast, New York's Finger Lakes and, of course, Niagara and the Okanagan. Promising start on Vancouver Island.

Tasting pinot can be a tricky business. Just looking at it can throw you off. But don't be misled by the pale, feeble, thin and weedy appearance of your typical pinot. Don't judge a book by the cover, and don't judge a wine by its colour. Many pathetic-looking pinots are gorgeous to drink. And furthermore, they can be delicious for decades.

Conversely, beware of self-consciously dark pinots.Extracting colour from thin-skinned pinot noir comes at a price. Far too often, impressively dark-coloured pinots are grotesquely tannic and hopelessly out of balance, unpleasant when young and useless when old.

On the nose, the fleeting, ephemeral aromas that appear and disappear can be maddeningly difficult to pinpoint. But stick with it - the rewards are great.

Look for intertwined layers of floral, herbal, red and black fruit, earthy, gamey, smoky, leathery, leafy, forest floor and mushroomy aromas. Pinot often presents shockingly raw, "organic" smells (the English term used to be "barnyard.") The French simply say merde, typically with a knowing nod of approval. If you taste enough pinot, sooner or later you will discover exactly what they mean. But the moment you do, it will be replaced by the exquisitely delicate fragrance of violets, red fruit ... and so on.  As the Burgundians love to say, always with a sublimely enigmatic shrug: "eet ees pinot,"

As great as pinot is to taste, taste is not the point. Pinot has another gear, a dimension that no other grape can offer. That dimension is tactile. Descriptions of great Burgundies ( "supple," "sensual," "velvety," "silky," "a trip to the moon on gossamer wings," etc.) may seem trite, but then, if you're lucky, it happens to you and you're done for. You will never forget. 
You will find yourself going to great lengths to recapture the experience. You have become a pinotphile.

A Pinot Primer

If pinot noir can be the best of times, it can most certainly be the worst of times. You must proceed with caution, and you need a list. Here it is.

CHILE is an excellent place to start. Cono Sur ($10-$11) is a world-beating value; Casas del Bosque ($17-$22) is a consistent winner at the Wine Access international Value Wine Awards. Newcomers such as Casa Marin and Matetic ($30-$60), both from San Antonio, are astonishing, as is Veramonte Reserva from Casablanca (see below).

NEW ZEALAND is prime pinot country. Villa Maria  and Mudhouse
($18-$20) are excellent values. Big guns such as Ata Rangi, Felton Road ($60) and Martinborough Vineyard ($25-$35) are quickly gaining cult status.

OREGON generates massive pinot hoo-ha, but there is great irregularity. The good vintage ratio is a Burgundian two or three out of 10. Domaine Drouhin ($30-$40), Ken Wright ($65) and Robert Parker's biodynamic Beaux Freres ($100-$170) are names to contemplate.

CALIFORNIA is getting pinot dialled. La Crema and Cambria are top values ($30-$45). Belle Glos Meiomi ($30-$40) is outstanding.

BRITISH COLUMBIA and ONTARIO both have fine pinot offerings. Quails' Gate Stewart Family, Church and State Hollenbach Vineyard and Road 13 Jackpot ($25-$45) are great B.C. examples;  Clos Jordanne is massively exciting news for Niagara ($35-$60).

BURGUNDY is a minefield, so reliable old standbys like Jadot and Bouchard Pere are tremendously important. In a great year like 2005, even their simple Bourgogne wines are compelling. Expect wines like Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules ($65-$80) or Bouchard Pere Beaune Greves L'Enfant Jesus ($80-$130) to be superb. Domaine de la Vougeraie is the rising star to watch ($40-$80).

Meanwhile a hot everyday-drinking tip: Veramonte 2006 Reserva Pinto Noir ($16) is a pinot lover's dream come true. It has sumptuous strawberry and cherry aromas and flavours, and the kind of silky smooth pinot texture that drives you wild. A wine to stockpile.

Pinot Noir Tasting Tips

Decanting pinot noir is not a good idea: you are simply kissing goodbye the precious subtleties that make pinot so special. Pinot noir should be poured directly from the bottle into an appropriate glass -i.e. one big enough and bowl-shaped enough to contain pinot's vital aromas. But one must always be mindful of the great dictum of Carneros pinot specialist David Graves of Saintsbury: "Never drink wine from a glass that is bigger than your head".