A Vertical Tasting of Don Melchor

In late fall I had the opportunity enjoy lunch with Enrique Tirado, the technical director and head winemaker for Concha y Toro’s Don Melchor brand.

The average wine drinker who has tried Chilean wine has probably sampled Concha y Toro, but they may not be familiar with Don Melchor, the flagship wine from the Concha y Toro line.

Don Melchor is a French-influenced, cabernet sauvignon-based red blend designed to highlight the terroir and cabernet-growing capability of Concha y Toro’s Puenta Alto vineyard in the Maipo Valley. Sourced from six different plots of cabernet sauvignon and a small block of cabernet franc, Don Melchor is produced from low yield vineyards to create high quality, small batch cabernet sauvignon.

“It’s about absolute respect for the beauty of the vineyards,” says Tirado.

Tirado led me through a vertical tasting of five vintages of the Don Melchor. Here are a few notes on the wines.

Concha y Toro 1993 Don Melchor

Still quite juicy, with blackberry, currant, tar, liquorice, eucalyptus, espresso and tobacco notes. Fully mature, the flavours are solid and still show generous fruits. It finishes on form and should mature well for another 3 to 5 more years if desired.

Concha y Toro 1995 Don Melchor

Jammy, with tar, coffee, menthol, cherry, tobacco, barnyard, smoke and rubber on the nose. The palate adds cedar, bell pepper, black fruit and earth/spice flavours, with some nice power. As the palate opens up, there is a little too much smoke, but I found it very enjoyable to drink and there still some youth in the glass.

Concha y Toro 2001 Don Melchor

With 9% cabernet franc in the blend, the nose is leaner, with brambly, pepper, liquorice, menthol, coffee, plum, spice and a little heat. The palate carries chocolate, spice, blueberry and cherry flavours, with firm tannins. A little flat at the moment, but I expect it to improve again shortly. If you have some at home, hang on to the bottles for another 3 years before opening.

Concha y Toro 2007 Don Melchor

The 2007 has 2% cabernet franc, with ripe cherry, blackberry, bramble, raspberry, menthol, liquorice, pepper, chocolate and much more on the nose. The palate is consistent and complex, with firm tannins, lots of coffee, great spice and a tight structure. Finishes on a long coffee and cocoa bean note. Should age without a problem for 10 to 15 years or longer. This is a current vintage. (93 points)

Concha y Toro 2008 Don Melchor

Running a little hot and tight on the nose, with ripe black fruits, cherry, menthol, tar, liquorice and a little meatiness. The palate is huge, with liquorice, mocha, cherry, cassis, tobacco and spice. Tannins are a little hard, but a year of aging should soften them up. Decant or wait until 2014 to start drinking. Better yet, wait until 2020 for best results. This is a current vintage. (92 points)