Bubbling Under Down East

Something is bubbling under in Nova Scotia, or maybe it's bubbling over. Either way, it is good news for the wine industry and the wine loving folks down here, from everyday drinkers to sommeliers.

We are still in early days for Nova Scotia's traditional method (TM) sparkling wine industry, but there's enough evidence now to at least start getting giddy. I'll say it: "Nova Scotia wineries can make excellent traditional method sparkling wine."

There are currently three wineries that will have released TM sparklers by the end of 2010.

L'Acadie Vineyards, which has the number 1 white grape in Atlantic Canada, kicked it off in 2008 with their 2006 L'Acadie based Brut, which won national awards in 2009. They followed with a Prestige Brut, a Rosé from Marechal Foch and have two under-$30 products on the way this summer, a 2008 Vintage Cuvée and 2008 Vintage Cuvée Rosé. They are true specialists, with experienced bubbly maker Bruce Ewert at the helm, even their Organic Cider is traditional method.

L’Acadie Winemaker Bruce Ewert has always said that the climate is perfect in the Gaspereau Valley for making TM wines and that L'Acadie is an appropriate grape. It reaches its phenolic ripeness early, showing varietal character at low Brix. These are great wines and a testament to the terroir.

Domaine de Grand Pré is celebrating their 10th anniversary this year and what a way to do it! They released their first TM wines, a dry Champlain Brut and demi-sec Ice Cuvée. Made from a blend of L'Acadie and Seyval Blanc, the $30 Brut is really good – fresh, elegant, green apple and lemon style, with some yeasty, bready character and good acidity. The $35 Ice Cuvée is very similar to the Ice Cuvée from Peller, using a Vidal icewine dosage. It's very smooth and easy to love.

The much anticipated first TM release of Benjamin Bridge is on the way this fall. I tried it a few weeks ago, a 2004 made from the 3 Champers grapes and was blown away. Anyone who knows their Champagne will be impressed by this bubbly, it tastes like upper shelf stuff and will cost that (around $80). Heck, I hear Tom Stevenson loved it!

According to the principals at Benjamin Bridge, which include consultants Peter Gamble and Raphaël Brisebois and winemaker Jean-Benoit Deslauriers, the growing season climate here is very similar to Champagne.

Benjamin Bridge has already created a buzz with their quick selling Nova 7, a lightly fizzy Asti-style wine made mainly from local Muscat (which is New York Muscat – it makes fabulous wines but is not allowed by VQA.) But they got even more buzz (the bad kind, more like a sting) when they had to recall and repair 170 cases of the 2009 due to spontaneous bottle refermentation. People will forgive, though, as it's quite a tasty little thing.

When people taste their Brut, though, they might just forget that Nova 7 even existed.

Two more wineries, Gaspereau Vineyards and Blomidon Estate, have their TM wines undergoing secondary bottle ferment as we speak. Knowing how good their winemakers are, I expect these to be great products.

How many more bubbly producers will we see in Nova Scotia? It's hard to say, but there's a lot of unplanted, vineyard-suitable land in the Gaspereau Valley…

Cheers!

Craig Pinhey is a writer and Sommelier, available for private tastings. Visit him at www.frogspad.ca and follow him on twitter (@frogspadca)