Canadian Rye vs. Whisky

Canadian whisky is making a comeback.

Smaller, artisan distillers are emerging across the country; special cask finishes are being created by distillers such as Canadian Club; and older stocks and blends are being released from Alberta Premium and other producers.

There’s even a single-malt whisky distillery on Cape Breton Island. All are made to impress fans of quality spirits.

But don’t confuse your Canadian rye whisky with your Canadian whisky. Although the terms rye whisky and Canadian whisky are often used interchangeably, they are two different products.

Rye whisky — whether produced in the United States or Canada — must have a mash bill (the mix of grains used) with at least 51 percent rye; the remainder generally comes from corn or cereal grains such as barley or wheat. Rye — the grain — adds lemony, aromatic and spicy qualities to the finished product’s flavour. But, being lower in starch than corn, it doesn’t ferment as well, or produce the quantities of alcohol that corn does. Plus, its stronger flavours mean that, in most cases, rye only makes up a small portion of Canadian whisky’s final product.

Indeed, Canadian whisky often includes rye for flavour, but it doesn’t need to contain any. Most is produced from corn, and is similar to bourbon in terms of production. With less-stringent requirements for new wood aging (the minimum is three years), Canadian whisky is usually a little smoother and mellower than bourbon or rye whisky.

Canada’s first official distillery — which produced rum — was established in Québec in 1769, although many unofficial distillers likely existed before that. An international reputation for quality emerged in the early to mid-1800s thanks to distillers such as Gooderham and Worts, Hiram Walker, and Corby’s. The Canadian government term “Bottled in Bond,” guaranteed with an excise stamp, as well as minimum-aging requirements that weren’t found in the U.S., assured consumers both north and south of the border that they were about to enjoy a quality product.

American consumers flocked to buy Canadian whisky and it began to be an identifiable Canadian creation. The proximity of thirsty Americans to distilleries in Ontario and Québec during Prohibition certainly didn’t hurt the distillers and many — although not all — found lucrative ways to ensure Canadian whisky was a spirit of choice during that time.

It’s worth noting that, as long as the duties were paid, it wasn’t illegal to export whisky out of the country. Today, Canadian whisky, whether rye-based or not, is a “distinctive product of Canada,” according to the Association of Canadian Distillers. It has protected Geographical Indication status and is sold in more than 160 countries around the world and, in 2010, the total value of exported spirits (spirits, liqueurs and spirit-based beverages) was more than $328 million.

More than 95 percent of sales are in the United States. Ontario accounts for almost 70 percent of our production, while Québec and Alberta distillers supply nearly 27 percent. In some cases, American companies are sourcing Canadian whisky stocks, finishing them and releasing them to both the U.S. and Canadian markets.

Many of them are well made and proudly indicate they are — at heart — Canadian whisky.

Classic Manhattan

2 oz rye whisky
1/2 oz sweet vermouth
2 to 3 dashes Angostura bitters

Stir the rye, vermouth and bitters with ice in a cocktail shaker. Strain into a martini glass. Rim the inside of the glass with a maraschino cherry, and then garnish with the cherry. Serves 1.