Amanda Allison
Amanda Allison is Wine Access' Web Editor & Ontario Bureau Chief. She is a journalism graduate with a love for both wine and food. A passionate storyteller, Amanda has written stories appearing in print and online.
Summertime and fish tacos go hand in hand. Maybe it is because of the dish’s origins in sunny Baja, Mexico or the fact they won’t make you bloat in your bathing suit. The fresh, flavourful and healthy tacos can be eaten on the go from your favourite food truck or lingered over while sipping a margarita at the nearby restaurant, but they’re just as easy to make at home.
One restaurant that does fish tacos justice is Earls. The executive chef and director of culinary development for Earls, Reuben Major, and his team are often inspired by their travels which explains the global feel on the menu. Their fish tacos were inspired by the ones eaten in Dominical, Costa Rica.

“It is a small beach-front village frequented by surfers. I was lucky enough to spend a couple of weeks there on vacation and fell in love with the local flavours,” says Major. “With the abundant fresh seafood and tropical fruit in Costa Rica, there were endless combinations, so creating my own recipe was part of the fun.”
Earls’ fish tacos are made with lime-and-coriander-marinated grilled wahoo, a firm, meaty white fish that Hawaiians also refer to as “Ono”, which means tasty. Major recommends using a fish that will stand up to being grilled.
“A soft flaky fish won’t work,” he says. “I recommend wahoo or mahi mahi to pair with tropical flavours. If you prefer a more regional flavour, Pacific Northwest halibut is an excellent and Ocean Wise choice.”
When it comes to cooking, Major says restaurant kitchens have something most home cooks have to do without — an industrial broiler. “If you’re cooking at home, in order to get the real authentic smoky flavour that the fish tacos deserve, I think the best way to cook both the fish and the taco shells is on the barbecue,” he says, noting home chefs should be cautious not to overcook the fish.
The fish is put in a soft shell and topped with mango, avocado salsa and a drizzle of Valentina, a citrusy hot sauce that’s blended with sour cream to keep the heat down. One non-traditional element is the use of flour tortillas instead of corn.
“Keeping in mind all the gluten issues these days, we looked at using a corn tortilla, but the flavours really overpowered the fish,” Major says. Tortillas are inexpensive and easy to make at home after a visit to a Mexican market or online retailer to purchase special corn flour called masa harina (available at many grocery stores) and a tortilla press.
For service, Major recommends borrowing an idea from Earls. “We have these nifty little holders that keep the taco shells closed when we serve them. You can buy something similar in most good cooking stores.” They’ll help the tacos stand up and save you spilling your precious toppings all over the plate.
Fish tacos are a margarita’s best friend. “Margaritas and fish tacos are a classic pairing – both really say summer, and the fresh squeezed citrus in all of our margaritas is great with all the flavours in the taco,” says Major. The pineapple-ginger margarita is the latest addition to the Earls drink menu and he says it goes great with this dish. Try the pair together at home at your next backyard fiesta.
Photos by Earls
Amanda Allison is Wine Access' Web Editor & Ontario Bureau Chief. She is a journalism graduate with a love for both wine and food. A passionate storyteller, Amanda has written stories appearing in print and online.
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