Cooking School: Lobster

The best tips for cooking this Maritime classic

Cooking School: Lobster

Lobster has a surprising history. You wouldn’t think that the luxurious, expensive addition to the steakhouse repertoire was once considered a low-class food — but it was. Because of the overabundance of lobster in New England in the early days of founding America, only the poor or those in jail ate this humble crustacean. In fact, says Gourmet Magazine, there were even laws against feeding lobsters to inmates more than once a week, because “it was thought to be cruel and unusual, like making people eat rats.”

Eventually though, lobster became highbrow, something to be savoured only on rare occasions at a swanky restaurant because it broke the bank and the belt. This is of course, unless you’re lucky enough live on the East Coast.

East Coasters have got it right when it comes to lobster. There’s no occasion needed to crack some claws and fancy serving ware is shoved aside for Styrofoam platters mounded up with corn, potatoes and the required butter for dunking. Lobsters are the pride of Atlantic Canada, especially in Nova Scotia, where they fish for the world-famous seafood.

Jason Lynch is the chef for Le Caveau restaurant at Domaine de Grand Pré, an award-winning Nova Scotia winery. Situated just outside of Wolfville, which is about an hour northwest of Halifax, the restaurant serves local products with global flair. Lynch, who grew up in the Annapolis Valley, is quite familiar with Nova Scotia’s most noteworthy ingredient.

“What I enjoy most about local lobster is the versatility, sweet flavor and varied texture in the different pieces of meat,” he says.

What advice does the seasoned vet have for the home-cook tackling lobster? “The number one recommendation I have for someone cooking lobster for the first time would be to buy small lobsters, around 1.25 pounds each,” he says. “Use an oversized pot and treat it like pasta. Don't overcrowd your pot and make sure it is seasoned well with salt. Cook the lobster for 10 minutes per pound, so if you have 1.25 pound lobsters don't cook them any longer than 13 minutes.”

And forget the fancy lobster crackers, Lynch says that a large chef’s knife is his favourite tool. “It is great for splitting the tails and cracking the claws.”

There are many ways to cook and serve lobster, but Lynch’s favourite is a dish called Lobster Thermidor. For this classic French method, lobster is served in the shell and caramelized under the broiler. He’d pour a glass of Domaine de Grand Pré’s Tidal Bay and enjoy. “It brings out the flavour of the lobster, chervil and tarragon.” Sounds like a perfect match.

So, don’t wait for a special occasion — make like an East Coaster and try your hand with some of these lobster recipes today. Enjoy with white Burgundy for lobster in cream sauce, Chablis for lobster salad or a toastier chardonnay for grilled lobster.

Lobster Thermidor

Lobster Louis

Lobster Rolls

Roasted Lobsters with Verjus and Tarragon

Joe Beef's Lobster Spaghetti

Photo provided by Simon Goldenberg

Amanda Allison's picture

Amanda Allison

Amanda Allison is Wine Access' Web Editor & Ontario Bureau Chief. She is a journalism graduate with a love for both wine and food. A passionate storyteller, Amanda has written stories appearing in print and online.

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