Fontanafredda La Rosa Vertical

Spectacular as my morning and early afternoon were, the real kicker was the Fontanafredda (www.tenimentifontanafredda.it) Barolo vertical tasting I was planning on attending. I know the wines of Fontanafredda well and most drinkers of Italian wine probably had them at some point as well. Unfortunately most people probably know them for their silver-labeled reasonably inexpensive Barbera d' Asti, Nebbiolo, and the like-that's what I remembered them from my early days stocking shelves in the wine shops.

Fairly recently, at least to the Alberta market and the Canadian market, they and their agents, Calibrium international are spending more time pushing the premium brands and top quality wines from Fontanafredda (literally the cold fountain in case you were wondering) and while capitalizing on the name, are really stressing the new labels and new entries to our market.

Fontanafredda the estate goes back to 1878 by the son of Victor Emmanuel II and comprises more than 70Ha of vineyards. Including their premium single vineyard Barolo Fontanafredda Vigna La Rosa Barolo DOCG (Retails for about $65-70 CSPC +943274). Winemaker Danilo (pronounced like Danny-O if you don't know Italian) Drocco was in town hosting a number of events including a pretty amazing luncheon (couldn't make it), a "to die for" dinner at Il Sogno (couldn't make it) and shoe-horned into this was a 30 year vertical tasting of the La Rosa Barolo. This is the sort of event that keeps this business special all year long. Granted, we didn't taste every vintage from the soon to be released 2008 all the way back, but 9 vintages of Barolo are nothing to shrug at.

This tasting kicked off at 3pm at Il Sogno as well and was set for about 12 people in a large square. Danilo talked a little bit about the winery, the overarching philosophy of the winey and its wines and then almost right into the wines.

                    Danilo Drocco talks about Fontanafredda wines
Note:Both Photos are courtesy of Warren Walden of Calibrium Wines.

The wines were poured and tasted youngest to oldest, and here they are;(It should be noted that the wines were poured "on the fly" rather than all being pre-poured. Wines were previously decanted as needed.)

2008
Technically not Barolo yet, as it needs 3 years of ageing (2 in wood) to be called Barolo, this "Nebbiolo for Barolo" has only seen 1 year in barrel so far. Obviously too young at this point, its packing lots of heat on the nose with raisin and resinous notes and cool cherry and black liquorice. Very tight on the palate, its chewy, bitter, and oh so good even now, but not really for drinking yet.

2004
Still on the early side, this and the 2001 are the current vintages available depending on your market. Elements of the 2008 are here, but a touch softer and less exuberant. Look for black cherry, alcohol heat, soapstone mineral notes, spice, and floral notes making an appearance. Still tight on the palate, but opening up, you could drink this now, but you'll waste it. Look for hints of Balsamic and mint.  (92-93 points)

2001
Some ripe and earthy notes, and starting to show some secondary elements from aging. Tobacco, mint, and woody notes are really starting to show. Nice and tight on the palate, this is almost drinkable for the impatient, and you would want this with food rather than on its own. (92 Points)

1999
Starting to show some age in the glass, the colour is starting to change from intense plummy colouring to some brick like colours on the rim. More earthy aromas are showing up and the nose is rife with black cherry, mint, leather, and tobacco. Still tarry and earthy, with nice floral hints. Big and structured on the palate but drinking fine. If you were aging this at home, you could start drinking them now.

1997
Strangely juicy with berry and mint, a touch of brine too. Lots of wood aromas and secondary notes. Over the course of the tasting, it lost some of the juiciness and calmed down a little becoming more balanced, but still flat and slightly disjointed. One of the hottest vintages in the 90's this is probably just in a sullen stage and should bounce back in a year or two. Don't panic!

1996
Supple and dark, the '96 is subtle and earthy with tar, raisin, black cherry, mint, heat, and resin while still floral and a touch of that brine note. Palate-wise, spicy and fantastic. Loads of flavour, and certainly not a young wine any more, but showing excellent mature flavours to go with the nose. This vintage has also been described as a "Barolo of the past" rather than a more modern wine. This is one of the coldest vintages of the last 50 years as well and if I could get my hands on this wine I certainly would.

1982
Fully mature, brick orange to the eye, and slightly cloudy. Aromas of spice and raisin, tobacco leaf, tar, mint, and not much fruit presence. In the mouth, spicy, and tarry, with salt and pepper notes. The wine was showing some staleness and I believe had some slight condition issues. This in no way would make me turn down a glass though.

1978
Totally mature in the glass with no red colouring to the wine. Tar, tea, spice, cedar, boathouse, raisin, walnut, and a brandy note on the nose. On the palate, not 100% and perhaps this bottle was slightly over the hill.

1971
The final wine in the lineup, showed dried mushroom, asphalt, with some dried fruit notes of cherry, and some savoury notes. Fruit deficient, with still good tannin and acids. Drinkable, but why? Might be best as a novelty or something special to bring out. The room was somewhat divided on this wine and it did seem to open up a bit in the glass as time went on. My final thoughts, if you have a bottle of this at home, and you never plan on drinking it? Keep it, you'll love having it in your cellar knowing you could drink it. If you plan on drinking it? Save it for guests who love this sort of thing and serve it with pride, but it might not be the best wine of your evening.

The line up, from 1971 on the left to the 2008 "Nebbiolo for Barolo" on the right

This was a great tasting and one that you don't get many chances to repeat in life. A great comparison of a single vineyard over time, and perfect to see the evolution of a wine over 39 years. Which is pretty awesome any way you cut it.

That was about it for my St. Patrick's day and though I had hoped to get a green beer somewhere, or at least a Shamrock Shake (Which apparently you can't get in Canada anymore) this was a cool way to celebrate.

I still haven't gotten over the fix for the shake and you will see me at Peter's Drive-In here in Calgary one day soon solving that problem.

Cheers,