Making the Case for Portuguese Wine

How do we get more people excited about Portuguese wine?

I’m in Porto, Portugal for the Wines of Portugal International Conference and this is the question on everyone’s mind.

The theme of this year’s conference is touriga nacional, Portugal’s best contender for a globally-accepted indigenous varietal. However, the acceptance of touriga nacional is dependant on greater consumer enthusiasm for Portuguese wines in general.

Portugal’s wine reputation has long been dominated by its fortified wines — Madeira, Port, Lancers/Mateus and Vinho Verde. The problem is that Port isn’t an everyday drink, Madeira languishes on the sidelines and we, the Canadian consumer, don’t get excited about the table wines of Portugal.

By table wine, I am talking about dry wine — white, red and rosé whose alcohol comes from the natural fermentation of its grape sugars. Everyday wines for enjoying with a meal or on their own, they have not captured the imagination or dollars of consumers in the same way as Australia or Spain.

Portuguese wines are often seen by consumers as slightly above the wines of Hungary or Uruguay. As a result, importers are reluctant to take a flyer on Portuguese wine, unless its in the super premium category (over $30 on the retail shelf,) or an established brand. We haven’t even scratched the surface of the great and dynamic wines available from Portugal.

As the eminent Jancis Robinson said at the conference, “Please don’t make your wine like anyone else’s” — this is part of the charm of Portuguese wine.

Portugal has several distinct wine regions that produce quality wine. The Douro has had the most success with its table wines, in part due to the success of its Port; but Alentejo, Vinho Verde and Bairrada also produce unique and authentic wines unlikely to be found elsewhere.

Of the roughly 1600 grapes produced commercially around the world, approximately 200 can only be found in Portugal. Chardonnay, shiraz and pinot noir are scarce and they play second fiddle to alvarinho, touriga nacional, louriero, arinto and many other indigenous grapes.

Charles Metcalf, another prominent wine personality, said of touriga nacional, “You know a grape has arrived when the Australians are interested in it.”

Portuguese wines are unique, complex and provide an authentic drinking experience that you don’t often find in an over-commercialized wine country. Rustic, herbal and earthy, these wines are built for home-cooked food — flavourful meats, rich seafoods and starchy sides.

So how do we ensure that we see the best Portuguese wines in Canada?

Ask your local wine store for their Portuguese selections. If the store knows Portuguese wines and are proud to carry them, you can be sure that their suggestions are worth your money and a taste.

Try a new region such as Alentejo, try a new grape that you can’t pronounce, challenge your wine merchant to provide you with a vinho verde that you would like. (Pairing hint: think sushi or a lourieiro with deep fried turkey.)

These wines are worthy of your time and you may just find yourself on the cutting edge.