My Encounter with Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

My first encounter with Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Vertical was in San Francisco in 2008, at the La Paulée event hosted by Daniel Johnnes. At these evening events, everyone comes together to pop corks, share bottles and really, to drink the best stuff they can find. You submit your lot of goods at the “wine check” at the front door and prepare to do battle with sobriety…a lesson in futility.

The evening commenced with dinner, which led to passing around the wines and wandering through the room in search of sweet juice. As I was floating around the room (with a glass of Drouhin 2005 Montrachet,) I spotted Bonneau du Martray’s Corton-Charlemagne, a 1990, to boot. I asked if I could grab a sip, and without much ado, the wine was in my glass.

I was taking notes all evening (which is how I remembered the Montrachet…thankfully) and dutifully jotted down thoughts on my first Martray. It was brilliant, with superb concentration and an exactness that I’ve found hard to replicate. The creaminess of the wine was so structured and had such purity. A fun little detail of La Paulée is that each bottle is marked with the name of the guest who brought it….in this case, Tim Mondavi.

Since the 2008 La Paulée, my bevy of good fortune has led to tasting other vintages of the Bonneau du Martray’s Corton-Charlemagne. Below are a few tasting notes, for those who are fortunate to own some of this grandeur.

1981 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

Quite a golden hue and still very bright, the nose offers beef stock, lemon pith, clove, apple seed, marmalade and brown butter - evolved but pure notes of the varietal. The palate is tiring with an amontillado-like profile, very nutty with hay and sunflower. With an hour to decant and a delicate pheasant dish, this could be very charming.

1991 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

Lanolin, wet earth, lemon seed and bouillabaisse on the nose, quite mature. The palate is hot, with bitter astringency and a lean fruit profile…touch of cork? Not a great vintage and these notes suggest fatigue. This wine was tasted twice, with the second bottle showing much more power and freshness, with ample minerality and a sweet palate. Either way, drink up.

1994 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

Bright, clear, greenish-gold hue; the nose reveals peach crumble, matcha tea and lemon candy. The acids are nicely fattened and it has a plump and charismatic palate with vanilla bean, bread dough and corn niblets. This is an excellent example from a challenging vintage, drink now to 2015.

1999 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

Light to medium intensity with a straw-golden hue; the nose is perfumed with matcha tea, miso, corn, sake, lanolin and sweetened lemon custard. Palate is evolved with firm structure and complexity. Decant several hours before drinking and it will sit patiently in the cellar for another decade.

2003 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

A deeper golden hue, there is an openness to the nose with buttery corn, mandarin and crème caramel aromas. Loads of power and substance on the palate – cumin, poppy seed, moist chalk and watermelon seeds – and a beautiful finish with abundant minerals. This wine is a testament to the terroir, carrying itself extremely well considering the apocalyptic nature of the vintage. Drink now to 2018.

2004 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

A light hue with greenish straw, this vintage has a closed nose with sunflower, scallop and scallion. Quite mineral-dominated on the palate, with an open approach to the lemon pith and chalk, certainly more giving than the nose at present. Finish is open with a swath of mineral. Very fine, but needs some time to gain definition. Drink 2015 to 2020.

2006 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

Quite light with a green-tinged, straw hue. Nose has quince, pear skin, butter, lanolin and honey aromas; a beautiful palate with round, precise flavors. The acids are full and plump, allowing the palate to showcase the crunchy chalk, sunflower and lemon oil notes. Drink 2016 to 2025.

2007 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

This vintage has a very closed nose, offering nuances of watery lemon oil, spearmint and chalk; lots of concentration on the palate with firm acids and notes of acacia and cotton shirts. This will require some serious sleep in a cold cellar to emerge…when it does, watch out. Drink 2020 to 2030.