Tasting Wines from Bouchard Père et Fils

I had the chance to sit down with Luc Bouchard of Maison et Domaines Henriot, which owns the well-known Burgundy house of Bouchard Père et Fils. Bouchard Père et Fils was started in 1731 and purchased in 1995 by the Henriot group, but it remains a family-owned business driven by quality.

It was a formal tasting but a casual discussion that included plenty of time to talk about the wines. Bouchard, the export director for Henriot, is passionate and knowledgeable about wine and I have never seen him at a loss for words on the topic.

During the tasting, in addition to consumer favourites, we were treated to the wines of the ‘other’ Burgundy. Not Chablis (although we had one in the line up), but a relatively new project in Beaujolais that is already producing better quality wines than the often-maligned Beaujolais Nouveau.

Our line up of wines included Bourgogne blanc and rouge, Beaujolais villages and Fleurie, with a Chablis from William Fèvre and a bottle of l’Enfant Jesus. Not all of the wines were incredible, but all were solid examples of winemaking in the region.

Bouchard Père et Fils 2008 La Vignée Bourgogne Chardonnay

Surprisingly smoky, but with good, classic chardonnay characters all around. A well-rounded glass of wine that is easy to enjoy almost any time of day. (Suggested retail: $22)

Bouchard Père et Fils 2008 La Vignée Bourgogne Pinot Noir

Brighter and a little more fruit-driven, with welcome hints of white pepper. A good, well-made pinot noir at a heck of a price. (Suggested retail: $23)

Bouchard Père et Fils 2006 Premier Cru Beaune du Château

Simply stunning, with black cherries, smoke and a hint of cherry wood. Quite savoury in the mouth, with some sultry smoke. (Suggested retail: $46)

Bouchard Père et Fils 2008 Beaune Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus

If you want top-quality burgundy without spending an absolute fortune, this is your wine. Still a little fruity, Luc Bouchard recommended at least 5 years of aging for best enjoyment and to soften the fruit. (Suggested retail: $122)

Villa Ponciago 2009 Beaujolais Villages

Buckets of raspberry, tons of mineral expression and still a little jammy, but wow. This is a gamay to have around the house all the time. Proof for your friends that Beaujolais is serious wine. (Suggested retail: $20)

Villa Ponciago 2009 La Réserve Fleurie

Now that you have your friends' attention, give them something like this. Initial hints of barnyard on the nose evolve into black raspberries, blueberries, mineral and spice aromas. You could drink it now, but it would be best with a year or two of further aging. (Suggested retail: $26)

William Fèvre 2007 Chablis

As a card-carrying member of the Chablis Superfriends (not really — we/I don’t have cards yet,) I love a great wine from this region. Tons of lemon/lime and flint notes, with just a hint of cream and almond on the palate. (Suggested retail: $28)

When asked about about other regions that produce Burgundian-style wines, Bouchard said that producers in Burgundy have to be even better. While other regions may come close to capturing the flavours from this famous terrior, no other region can match the incredible variety of Burgundian terroir and its potential quality.

When I asked him if Bouchard Père et Fils was going for a particular style, like the Champagne houses are prone to do, Bouchard said, “[We are]…always reflecting the terroir rather than choosing a style.”

Amen to that.