Although the Americans aren’t taught that there was a War of 1812, and few know that they lost said war to “Canada” (we weren’t actually Canada, yet, to be fair), they do know that Canada makes great wine, right? No?

No.

Most Americans laugh when you suggest that our wines are as good or better than theirs. “Can y’all grow grapes in the snow?” they guffaw. “Yes we can, eh?,” we say, “We put the Can in Canada!”

Some of us so-called experts genuinely believe our best wines are as good or better than theirs, especially when value is considered. And if, like me, you prefer elegant, low alcohol, minerally wines with good acidity that go well with food, over high alcohol, over-extracted flabby jam bombs. Of course I am being ignorant here, because I’m clearly comparing Canada to the stereotypically hot parts of California, which, although it admittedly makes the bulk of the wine in the US, is only one of 50 winemaking states. Washington, Oregon, New York, Michigan and even Minnesota have more in common with Canadian wine than California. One has to admit that even California has a few cool areas making food-friendly wines.   

In any case it is fun to compare and contrast the wines from our two countries. Here is a war between a few similarly priced wines in our market, with my judgements. I have appointed myself judge and jury in this war and I will proclaim the winner. There will be no armistice. I‘m not even going to get into Icewine, because that would be totally unfair and we Canadians aren’t like that.

NOTE: all prices are from New Brunswick or Nova Scotia

Battle 1: Riesling

USA - Mondavi Private Selection, California  $19.99

Canada - Cave Spring VQA Niagara, Ontario $17.29

This is no contest. The Mondavi is fine, with its pretty fruit and soft acidity, but it comes across very flabby compared to the minerally, lime tinged Cave Spring, which is off-dry but has firm acidity. You get a much more terroir specific wine that tastes better and it is cheaper too! CANADA

Battle 2: Chardonnay

USA - Cup Cake Chardonnay, California, $13.99

Canada - Pelee Island Chardonnay VQA Ontario,  $13.79

This is a closer match. Both of these wines are fairly simple crowd pleasers, with the Pelee Island being more of the peachy, tropical style, while Cupcake is the buttery, creamy style, showing more oak. It depends on what style you prefer. I call this a draw, partner. DRAW

Battle 3: Pinot Noir

USA - Mirassou Pinot Noir, California, $14.99

Canada -  Mission Hill Five Vineyards Pinot Noir, VQA Okanagan $18.99

Again, a tough match, and it depends on what style of pinot noir you enjoy most. The Mirassou is less expensive, and is packed with tasty red fruit, but it has little of the acidity pinot noir is known for. The Mission Hill fairs a bit better in the acid department, but is less generous with the fruit, although it does have light berry-cherry notes.  Mirassou gets the nod on the price advantage. It is difficult to make good cheap pinot. US

Battle 4: Big Red Blends

USA - Treana Red, California  $43.78

Canada - 2006 Osoyoos Larose, VQA Okanagan, $46.79

I had to compare some heavy hitting reds, to make this fair, and again, this is a battle of styles. It is tough to find a great Californian red blend for a reasonable price. The Treanna is a popular blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% syrah that shows its hot Paso Robles terroir. It is full, boozy, dark, juicy, oaky, spicy and sweet with ripe fruit. The Osoyoos Larose is a Bordeaux blend, but grown in BC. It is perceived as much drier, with classic style but also has some dark ripe fruit. I like them both but the Osoyoos is a classier wine and you’d pay much more for an American (or French) wine like this. CANADA

Battle 5: Traditional Method Sparkling Wine

USA - Mumm Napa Brut Prestige, California,  $33.99

Canada - L'Acadie Vineyards Prestige Brut, Nova Scotia, $34.99

Californians would be shocked to hear that Nova Scotia makes wine at all, but they’d be more shocked when they tasted this elegant sparkler. Mumm Napa is a nice, easy drinking bubbly for sure, but I’ll take the racy acid and bready notes of the L’Acadie.  Yes, I’m picking a relatively unknown grape over the standard Champagne varieties.  Deal with it! CANADA

In conclusion, at the prices that American wines end up here in Atlantic Canada, this is a tough battle for them. Just like in 1812 they have lost badly and return home with their tails between their legs. If the Canadian dollar can somehow climb another 50 cents on their dollar, or we drop our ridiculous taxes and mark-up (ha!) on American wine, then they might have a chance next time.

For now though, Canada wins the wine war of 2012, 3-1, with one tie.

Photo by Library and Archives Canada, e010952223