As the Australian wine industry has turned its focus to "regional heroes," Tasmanian winemakers have quietly carved out their own little niche, and it keeps growing.

Emphasis on world-class pinot noir, riesling, chardonnay and sparkling wine has elevated mainlanders’ opinions on Tassie wine from afterthought to cream of the cool-climate crop.

Coal River Valley Wine Region

Located at nearly the same latitude as Christchurch, New Zealand, Hobart (Tasmania’s capital) is a short distance from the Coal River Valley region, one of the island’s two big wine-producing spots.

This southerly latitude, combined with the influence of the Indian and Pacific oceans (as well as Antarctic breezes) keeps the region’s temperatures relatively cool, but stable.

Tamar Valley Wine Region

Tassie’s other primary grape-growing region is the Tamar Valley, located on the northern end of the island around the town of Launceston. The state’s oldest wine region, it’s also home to the most wineries (although only about two dozen). Brown and red soils dominate the landscape in both valleys, although they vary slightly, depending on the vineyard in question.

Tasmania’s landscape is mountainous only in the relative scheme of things — compared to its Kiwi latitudinal counterparts, Tassie’s ranges are much smaller.

Rainfall varies greatly, depending on where you are on the island — not surprisingly, Tassie’s most prolific wine-producing areas are also the driest. Hobart sees an average annual rainfall of just over 600 mm, while some areas of the island receive nearly four times that much precipitation.

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc

Pinot noir accounts for most of Tasmania’s wine grape plantings — about 42 percent of the total area planted — with chardonnay a distant second.

The pinot is elegant and racy, while the chardonnay is subtle, yet complex. In fact, 86 percent of the Penfolds 2008 Yattarna Chardonnay — considered the “white Grange” of Australian wine — is made from Tassie chardonnay grapes.

While sauvignon blanc accounts for the island’s third-highest number of plantings, riesling is moving producers to make crisp, compelling, dry whites.

Tasmania Facts and Figures

Latitude of Tasmania

42° 53' South

Size of Vineyards in Tasmania

1,550 hectares of vineyards

Wine Styles in Tasmania

Pinot noir, riesling, chardonnay

Climate in Tasmania

Cool climate

Top Wine Producers in Tasmania

Frogmore Creek/Meadowbank, Stefano Lubiana, Jansz Tasmania; all have selections in Ontario. 

Tasmania's Top Vintages

2006, 2008, 2010

Wine Production in Tasmania

17,000 tonnes of grapes produced in 2010

How to Get to Tasmiania

Air Canada flies direct from Toronto (YYZ) or Vancouver (YVR) to Sydney (SYD). Flights depart Sydney to Hobart daily (direct flying time is around two hours), or seafaring types can board the Spirit of Tasmania in Melbourne and sail nine to 11 hours to Devonport.  

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92 De Bortoli 2008 Reserve Release Syrah

Yarra Valley, Australia

Tasted By: Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson

BC: $65

91 Wynns Coonawarra Estate 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

Coonawarra, Australia

Tasted By: Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson

BC: $30 Everything Wine AB: $25 ON: $25 Vintages

91 Frogmore Creek 2006 Chardonnay

Tasmania, Australia

Tasted By: Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson

ON: $24 Vintages

91 Penfolds 2008 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon

South Australia

Tasted By: Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson

BC: $41 AB: $40 SK: $40 MB: $43 Banville and Jones ON: $35 Vintages QC: $34 NS: $43

89 Skillogalee 2006 Basket Pressed Shiraz

Clare Valley, Australia

Tasted By: Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson

BC: $28 NL: $28

These interviews are part of our feature on winemaking families from the June/July 2011 issue.

With roots in Australia dating back to 1844, Penfolds offers a range of red and white wines, including the renowned Grange, one of the world's most iconic wines.

Peter Gago, the chief winemaker for Penfolds, did a stint as a high school science teacher before becoming an award-winning winemaker.

And Oliver Crawford worked with Gago at Penfolds, first as the red winemaker, then as the senior white winemaker. While the two still work under the umbrella of Treasury Wine Estates (formerly Foster's), Crawford is now the winemaker at Devil’s Lair Winery in Margaret River, Australia.

Peter Gago, Penfolds

Q: Tell me about the moment you knew you were going to be successful as a winemaker.

A: Survival of my first “real” vintage,  away from the books and safety-blanket. Autonomous, sink or swim, and, thankfully, no major mistakes!

Q: When it comes to winemaking, what is your passion?

A: Finding that special parcel of fruit and creating something above and beyond, sometimes as a singular expression, sometimes as a critical, synergistic component in a blend.

Q: What do you want people to remember about your wines?

A: [That they are] real wines that last. Longevity, coupled with a high “drinkability index.”

Q: What are your hopes for the future of your winery, say 30 to 50 years down the road?

A: Penfolds has been in the business of making wine for 167 years. Initially family-owned, it survived its early years as a publicly traded company without much drama. The Penfolds winemaking and viticultural teams have been an autonomous, closely knit and dedicated team throughout, and one that puts wine first. May this continue.

Q: Is there anyone in the wine industry — dead or alive — you wish you could  have worked with? Why?

A: [Legendary Penfolds winemaker] Max Schubert, who passed away in 1994. [I admired] his vision, skill and ability to implement change. Ditto, [former Penfolds chief chemist] Dr. Ray Beckwith, currently 99 years old. Scientific acumen, team player, gentleman.

Q: What do you do when you’re not making wine?

A: Drinking and sharing wine — and dining. Surely, this is why we work — to support this lifestyle! Hobbies — music (all forms), running, travel.

Q: What are your thoughts on organic/biodynamic wine production?

A: Organic — yes. Biodynamic — mostly yes. Dealing with climate change and the extremes dealt by Mother Nature also requires intermittent intervention of other modes.

Q: What do you keep in your cellar?

A: I was a wine collector long before I was a winemaker. I’ve been collecting wines now for over a third of a century. How can I be that old? In the cellar are bottles of every colour and character. As a self-confessed champagne addict, I have a larger-than-expected “corner” spanning the decades. French, Italian, Spanish, German, Austrian wines sit comfortably alongside those of Australia — some going way back. Canada, too. Favourites? Too many for this article.

Oliver Crawford, Devil's Lair

Q: How did you get your start in the industry?

A: My father purchased a property in Orange, New South Wales [250 kilometres west of Sydney] and, with my help, we planted 30 acres of vines and started making wine. I fast realized that making wine is easier on the back than growing grapes.

Q: What was your big break? Tell me about the moment you knew you’d made it — that you were going to be successful — as a winemaker.

A: I guess when I was accepted as a red winemaker at Penfolds. Working at Penfolds is considered a pinnacle. However, personally, I feel that the big moment was when I took over the senior white winemaking position at Penfolds.

Q: When it comes to winemaking, what is your passion?

A: Chardonnay — it is such a wonderful variety. It makes truly magical wines.  There is so much that you can do with it from so many different regions.

Q: What do you want people to remember about your wines?

A: I want them to remember the moment: who they enjoyed the wine with, the place, the occasion. A good wine is only good if it is shared with people you enjoy being around.

Q: What are your hopes for the future of your winery, say 30 to 50 years down the road?

A: A sustainable industry that cares for the environment and the people we sell to. I am very much against unsustainable growing and making of wine, and I am very much against making “passion pop.” Wine is more than that!

Q: What do you do when you’re not making wine?

A: I love cooking and fishing (or any beach activity). I end up feeding the fish!

Q: What are your thoughts on organic/biodynamic wine production?

A: As an industry, we should all be aiming to grow in a sustainable manner. I support organic and biodynamic, but I also realize that it is not always possible given the vagaries of Mother Nature. At Devil’s Lair, we aim to grow and make our wines organically. We follow the principles and practices of organic growing, but we are not certified because, from time to time, we employ practices that are not certified.

A proposed new Water Industry Bill in South Australia would bring independent water pricing to the state, ending the existing water monopoly and allowing more opportunities for third-party access to water.

South Australia, Australia’s driest state, uses approximately 1,200 gigalitres (more than one trillion litres) of water per year. The River Murray, the largest source of water for the state, runs more than 2,700 kilometres through the states of Victoria, New South Wales and South Australia. The Murray-Darling Basin is still suffering from the worst drought on record, which began early in the last decade.

Water is piped to South Australia using a system of pipes and reservoirs that is controlled by the state water utility, SA Water.

Currently, there are a few examples of third-party water providers paying to use state lines to transport water to their customers. In the Barossa Valley, for example, water is provided by Barossa Infrastructure Ltd., a private company. The new legislation would further open up the industry for third-party suppliers, says Robert O’Brien, chairman of Australian Water Investments and managing director of Percat Water, a water brokerage firm.

Licences to access certain volumes of water are available from the government on either an entitlement (permanent) or allocation (seasonal) basis. These licences can then be traded on the Murray-Darling Basin water market, the largest cap and trade water market in the world.

The Essential Services Commission of South Australia (ESCOSA) would be responsible for regulating prices and monitoring adherence by third-party users.

At this point, it is difficult to know what the cost implications for suppliers and irrigators would be, says Brian Smedley, Chief Executive of the South Australian Wine Industry Association, but the main impact on the wine industry is likely to be on grape growers who purchase water for irrigation.

In a press release, Paul Caica, South Australia’s Minister for Water, stated that the bill, which was tabled in November, was put forward to give the industry and residents of the state the opportunity to view the new legislation before an act is put before Parliament. The legislation and an explanatory paper were available online for public consultation and comment until Jan.

88  Temple Bruer 2009 Preservative Free Shiraz

Langhorne Creek, South Australia

AB $21

This shiraz shows a bit of gingerbread and molasses on the nose, with spices and ripe fruits. It has to be said, it smells very Christmas-y. Rich and lively on the palate initially, with juicy fruits, spice and the addition of a wonderful bitter liquorice note on the mid-palate.  (Tom Firth)

90  Wakefield 2004 St. Andrews Shiraz

Clare Valley, South Australia

SK $47

Interesting notes on the nose. Beautiful cherry and perfume notes are out front, while the head-scratcher was an earthy, resinous note. Regardless, the Wakefield demonstrates finesse on the palate, presenting supple blackberry and ripe cherry notes, soft tannin and a smooth, chocolatey finish. (Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson)

Photo courtesy of Wine Australia