The French call it Bourgogne, while the rest of the world knows this area — a string of pretty towns in eastern France nestled below tidy, pocket-sized verdant vineyards — as Burgundy.

The name sounds better in French, non? Complex and elegant, with a finish that resonates on the tongue, rather like the wines produced in this region whose winemaking tradition dates back to the 11th century.

Burgundy Winemaking

It was a hot, hot day last July and I was bouncing along, heading north from the city of Beaune in a tiny car with my guide, oenologist Jean-Pierre Renard, through the Côte De Beaune and Côte de Nuits, two of the most-revered wine-growing regions in the world. These sub-regions comprise a thin strip just over 50 kilometres long, and Renard was providing an overview of the viticultural history of the whole area, which was part geological, part historical and part political.

As we passed through such storied Grand cru plots as Le Montrachet, Renard explained how Burgundy’s history reflects a thousand years of winegrowing experience, beginning with the monks at Cluny Abbey in the Maconnaise region in the south of Burgundy. When the French Revolution came along in 1789, church properties were divided up, resulting in today’s 4,600 wineries, most with tiny vineyards of five to 10 acres.

As if on cue, Renard slows to a stop alongside the famous Romanée-Conti vineyard — which produced its first vintage in 1232 and whose pinot noirs are among the scarcest and most expensive in the world — to watch a worker manually cultivate the soil with a plough pulled by a horse named Mickey. They do this to avoid compacting the soil with use of tractors. Watching the methodical rhythm of the great beast, whose breeding dictates he not shake his head and jostle the vines, is mesmerizing. 

Burgundy’s rhythm is like that. Every experience is meant to be savoured, from the standard two-hour allotment for lunch to the unhurried tastings that take place in the cool, dark, enveloping humidity of the cellars, which are frequently conducted by third-, fourth- or even fifth-generation winemakers.

There’s little the people here don’t do with great finesse and, to that end, Renard takes me to a picnic spot overlooking the charming village of Pernand-Vergelesses, pops the trunk and produces five pinot noirs to taste. They’re all from the Côte de Nuits region, which is most famous for its reds, and all share the barnyard, mushroom, spicy, silky feel with hints of cassis that characterize pinot noir, but among them are subtle differences on the nose and the palate — expressions of the unique terroir that make these wines so revered.

Burgundy Terroir

As we tasted, he talked at length about terroir. It’s a word I heard more frequently than almost any other during my trip. It is the soul and the essence of Burgundy. Terroir comes from the French word terre, which means “land,” and it refers to the unique characteristics that the geography, geology and climate impart on the grapes specific to a region.

In Burgundy, there are 100 terroirs which have been defined and delineated, and form the basis for the different appellation categories, or AOCs.

Renard also talked about clos, climat, soil and sub-soil, and the mess in my head began to unravel — somewhat. The problem is that Burgundian history, geography, geology, politics and whatnot are maddeningly complex.

About the only thing that is blissfully straightforward are the grapes, of which there are only two principal players. White wine is chardonnay and red wine is pinot noir, and they are the ultimate expression of both — pure and unsullied, absent of any blending with other varieties.

With at least that much worked out, we headed back to Beaune and the Domaine Loïs Dufouleur. The Domaine produces, in particular, rich and subtle red Premier Crus, and owner Philippe Dufouleur guided me through a tasting in his cellar before I took to my suite in a centuries-old stone outbuilding that Dufouleur and his wife, Anne-Marie, have converted into a charming and luxurious bed and breakfast. 

Food in Burgundy

Dinner that night was at Restaurant Le Cheval Noir, and would prove to be the first in an unbroken string of exquisitely prepared and plated multi-course meals. Burgundians are almost as obsessive about food as they are about wine, and they cling to tradition with the same energy. As such, you’ll find no gastronomic trends. As for the oft-repeated phrase, “the French eat well but they eat tiny portions,” it certainly wasn’t my experience.

The cuisine of Burgundy is rich, in part to complement the region’s full-bodied wines and, in part, because it is home to one of the world’s finest breeds of cattle, the Charollais, plus Bresse chickens and France’s biggest herds of goats, from whose milk chèvre is made.

Lunch and dinner typically begin with a gougère — a delightful cheese puff — followed by a whimsical amuse-bouche like gazpacho in a shot glass or a slice of pâté. Escargots are a mainstay entrée, cooked in Chablis, stuffed with butter, garlic and parsley and finished in the oven. Oeufs en meurette — poached eggs in a red-wine reduction — ought not to be missed, nor should jambon persillé, in which chunky cured ham and parsley are suspended in aspic.

Perhaps the most classic mains of all are boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin. They are as they should be: robust, flavourful and meticulously prepared. Follow up with a selection of local cheeses, including the lusciously pungent cow’s milk cheese Époisses and the milder Cîteaux, made by the monks at Cîteaux Abbey.

Finally, though usually served before or in place of cheese, is dessert. Though not the norm, one afternoon at the restaurant at the Hôtel Le Montrachet I had the most decadent and delightful experience of being served not just dessert (strawberry gateau), but also pre-dessert (a macaron, a fruit jelly and a toffee confection) and post-dessert (a miniature fruit parfait). Whoever wrote about tiny portions must not have visited the same places I did. No meal in France is complete without wine paired with each course. Indeed, eating, drinking and touring the countryside are gloriously intertwined, and crumbly stone villages intermingle with meticulously preserved châteaux.

Burgundy Châteux

One of the most spectacular of these is the Château du Clos de Vougeot, built in 1551, which is the headquarters of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. Inside the cavernous cuverie, or fermentation room, are four massive 13th-century grape presses and a spectacular open-beam ceiling. The vineyard was founded more than 900 years ago, when monks started experimenting with grapes because nothing else would grow in the poor, rocky soil. The vast, 124-acre vineyard is the largest single vineyard in Côte de Nuits with a Grand cru designation.

Similarly well preserved and exquisitely restored is Château De Pommard, the largest private vineyard in Burgundy. The château’s museum showcases a rare collection of ancient tools used by winegrowers through the ages. It also has on display an excellent visual explanation of the domain’s terroir, as well as an original mechanical self-basting rotisserie in front of a large fireplace, which is a marvel in medieval slow cookery.

Another gem, considered to be one of the finest examples of 15th century architecture, is the Hospices de Beaune, a hospital built for the poor and needy in 1443. A charity wine auction has been taking place there on the third Sunday in November since 1851. The wines are auctioned by the barrel and last year the record price was US$526,080. 

Burgundian Farmers and Winemakers

As grand as these châteaux are, it was while exploring the crumbly villages, walking amongst the vines, feeling the dirt and hearing the farmers take pride in their wines (while giving all the credit to their terroir) that I felt most connected to the place. Typically, you can’t just drop in at the small wineries but, if you call ahead, and it’s not harvest time, you’ll be welcomed with friendly informality. These winemakers are generous with their time and expertise, and there are few places I’d rather spend an hour than in the cool humidity of a wine cellar, tasting wine with a barrel for a table, the way they’ve done it in Burgundy for 900 years. 

It is often said all wine lovers come to Burgundy in the end, as their wine education reaches its pinnacle. Certainly, when it comes to what’s in the glass, Burgundy red has a subtle, silky, sensuous quality, with a finish that makes you long for more. And burgundy white is generous and delicious, citrusy and mineraly, with wonderfully fragrant notes.

But, more than that, Burgundy is about the soil and the men and women who work it. Spending time with them, learning about winemaking, walking amongst the vines and learning the history and geography leads to a heightened enjoyment of the wine, the food and the place, and the synergy they create.

The French President Charles de Gaulle once said: “I have a certain idea about the Burgundians, and it’s that they are among the most pleasant people in the world with whom to spend a few days.”

I agree.

This article originally appeared in the April 2011 issue of Avenue Calgary magazine.

Find out where to eat and stay in Burgundy.

Kicking Horse Mountain Resort is known for its big snow, big bowls, giant gondola, and at almost 8,000 feet elevation, the top-of-the world Eagle’s Eye restaurant.

To celebrate 10 years of high life, the resort has added dinner concert series for both winter and summer seasons. These themed dinners feature a gourmet five course meal, with fine wine pairings and an intimate concert experience.

After a full Saturday of skiing, the gondola ride with our young girls, ages 7 and 4, was the start of an amazing culinary adventure at Eagle's Eye Restaurant. Wrapped in blankets, we watched the mighty machines – the snow grooming cats – climb the mountain runs.

The Eagle’s Eye is reminiscent of a classic chalet, with windows galore and a big, double-sided fireplace that was in demand during cocktail hour. Before the sun set, we could see range upon range of mountains, including Glacier National Park and Bugaboo Provincial Park. Our heads spinning with snowy mountaintops, we sauntered over to the bar and ordered a round of Eagle's Eye Ice Wine martinis.

Dinner at Eagle's Eye Restaurant

The dinner began with three appetizing starters: escargots paired with sauvignon blanc, organic greens with chardonnay and seared scallops with gewürztraminer. Tim Watts, co-founder of Kettle Valley Winery, introduced each course with insider information about the wines and a friendly sense of humour. He said, “In 20 years, this is the first winemakers evening where I’ve had to wear long johns.”

After three bright whites, I was ready for Kettle Valley’s Old Main Red, which was served with the main course beef tenderloin. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot, with small amounts of petit verdot and malbec, it was the best kind of gastronomic alchemy as I alternated between mouthfuls of tenderloin and the Old Main Red.

Kettle Valley Winery

As Kicking Horse celebrates 10 years, Kettle Valley Winery is marking their 20th anniversary. Kettle Valley is on the Naramata Bench in the Okanagan Valley and produces 10,000 cases of wine a year, from 28 acres in Naramata and 14 acres in the Cawston/Keremeos area. They were the B.C. Winery of the Year in 2009.

Viticulture is a family affair at Kettle Valley; Watts and his brother-in-law Bob Ferguson starting making wine in their apartment kitchen almost 30 years ago. Watts was frank and forthcoming about what not to do in the wine business (don’t try to blend away a bad wine, you will just end up with more bad wine) and how as winemakers they feel free to break the odd rule.

Ski-in, Ski-out at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort

This was our first winter holiday staying at a ski-in, ski-out accommodation. Before lunch, or at the end of the afternoon, we’d come down a pleasantly empty and ungroomed run called Big Ol’ Bear, cut through a glade of trees, and there was our home for the weekend, the Palliser Lodge. A narrow track led right to the back door and if it weren’t for a fence, you could ski right into the hot tub. (Maybe someone did.)

The vibe at Kicking Horse is definitely laid back. The village was easy to get around in, even while wearing ski boots. In line at the Kicking Horse Café, I was impressed by the snowboarders who added a shot of Bailey’s to their morning cappuccino (and it was early). The espresso drinks did seem a bit pricey, but they were absolutely delicious and, of course, made with Kicking Horse Coffee.

The Kicking Horse dinner concert series continues this summer: July 1, Aug. 12, and Sept. 2, 2011. For more information, visit kickinghorseresort.com.

Halifax, NS

Five Fishermen

1740 Argyle St., 902-422-4421

Don’t mistake this excellent restaurant for a tourist trap; cuisine is topnotch and sommelier Avery Gavel’s wine list is terrific, with a solid international selection, plus a decidedly local angle. This is the best Nova Scotia wine list in the country, with the province’s wines classified by sub-region. The list features 26 bottles in total, including 22 by-the-glass offerings at reasonable prices. (Craig Pinhey)

The Press Gang

5218 Prince St., 902-423-8816

Located in one of the city's oldest stone structures, The Press Gang offers a formal dining experience and a menu of seafood, poultry, meat and game. For a more casual experience, check out their oyster bar, which features a great selection of fine wines and cocktails.

Montreal, QC

L’Express

3927 rue Saint-Denis, 514-845-5333

L’Express has been doing a fine job for 20 years or so and whether you are looking for a classic Bordeaux or a non-sulphite Beaujolais, this has been, and still is, the reference when it comes to affordable and interesting wine lists. (Bill Zacharkiw)

Au Pied de Cochon

536 Avenue Duluth Est, 514-281-1114

Get a taste of traditional Québecois cuisine in a casual bistro environment at Au Pied de Cochon. The menu boasts a variety of meat and game options — try the duck in a can, poutine and foie gras. Great service and environment, with an extensive wine list.

Ottawa, ON

Navarra

93 Murray St., 613-241-5500

Chef/owner René Rodriguez has carved out a niche for Basque cuisine and tapas in the culinary embassy row called the Byward Market. Sommelier John Gross has assembled a well-priced list peppered with unsung Spanish regional wines that neatly provides international touchstones, as well. (David Lawrason)

Social Restaurant and Lounge

537 Sussex Dr., 613-789-7355

A fusion of contemporary American and French cuisines, Social is located in the trendy Byward Market area of Ottawa. Try the Alberta lamb shank or the duck. The atmosphere is trendy and hip — make a reservation.

Toronto, ON

Terroni

720 Queen St. W., 416-504-0320

Featuring wine from all over Italy, with every selection well chosen for value and quality, this list is short on well-known labels — but you will rarely be disappointed. The food is well-priced and there is an amazing selection of pizzas, such that you will find yourself returning to try something different every time. You will never be disappointed since it’s all good, wholesome stuff that is well presented. It does get noisy and very busy, so best to go early and avoid at peak times. (Steve Thurlow)

Nota Bene

180 Queen St W., 416-977-6400

An elegant supper club that features contemporary American fare. Try to the tuna tartar or the Yucatan hot & sour soup to start, with the soffritto of braised rabbit for the main course. Good wine list and you can bring your own bottle.

Winnipeg, MB

Bistro 7 1/4

725 Osborne St., 204-777-2525

South Osborne’s Bistro 7 1/4 is among the best of the area’s many cozy-yet-happening eateries. Its French-inspired cuisine, with an emphasis on local ingredients, works well with the concise, well-chosen and fun wine list. Any doubts about pairing wine and food can be handily put to rest by the knowledgeable staff. (Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson)

Provence Bistro

620 Niakawa Rd., 204-254-3500

Owner/sommelier Shawn Brandson has done a stellar job of compiling a wine list that matches the beauty of both Provence Bistro’s fare and the surrounding golf course. The food is distinctly French and the wine list favours France, Italy and Australia. It’s the city’s first restaurant to offer wine lockers to patrons. (Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson)

Calgary, AB

Vin Room

2310-4th St. SW, 403-457-5522

This wine bar is known for its wide selection (70 wines by the glass,) intimate atmosphere and elegant small plates menu. The service is laid back — but not lacking — and the staff are happy to help you select a wine.

Teatro

200 8th Ave. SE, 403-290-1012

A classic, old school, 800-plus label list with both breadth and depth in a fine-dining atmosphere. Primarily focused on French and Italian wines, the wine list also features several high-end verticals and lots of older vintages. A great list of aged wine that is ready to drink, no matter your budget. (Tom Firth)

Edmonton, AB

Sabor Divino

109 10220 103 St. NW, 780-757-1114

The Sabor Divino list is impressively large, with a proud showing of Portuguese wines along with popular regions, both New and Old World. The food is authentically European and well paired with the wine options. There is something here for all tastes and all budgets, including by-the-glass and small formats. (Tom Firth)

Wildflower Grill

10009 107th St. NW, 780-990-1938

A really well-balanced list concentrating on quality, small producers, with an emphasis on Canadian and Californian wines. The list also features a nice selection of bubbles, interesting Aussies and cool picks from Bandol, Marche, Rias Baixas, Wachau, Sicily and Priorat. (Gurvinder Bhatia)

Vancouver, BC

Uva Wine Bar

900 Seymour St., 604-632-9560

The captivating list, the food and the ambience are what UVA is all about. Order one of the many gems, like the Palmina Santa Ynez Nebbiolo, for a thrill. (DJ Kearney)

Blue Water Cafe and Raw Bar

1095 Hamilton St., 604-688-8078

This plentiful list can seem overwhelming, but it is hard to top in terms of depth and breadth for pairing with seafood in general and Pacific Northwest seafood in particular. All of the selections are served by the crack wine team. Sipping fizz at the Raw Bar is a pleasant pastime in this town. (DJ Kearney)

Photo courtesy of Five Fishermen