This year was a real fight to the finish for wines from all over Italy. There are more than 100 varieties indigenous to the country, so it’s no surprise to see a battle for supremacy. With wines from the north, south, east and western regions that represent styles ranging from sparkling muscat to big reds, you really have to shine in this category to win. There’s no doubt the final results are dominated by wines from the Veneto and Tuscany.
A delicious taste of the southern Italian sunshine took top honours as Category Champion. The Nero has intense aromas of ripe plum, black fruits, coffee and oak and some savoury, barnyard notes for a bit of complexity. The palate is full and rich, bursting with ripe fruit, chocolatey oak, just enough acidity to keep it balanced and clove spice that lingers on a long finish.
One individual wine would be hard to pinpoint, but I like Ontario wine. I collect a lot of Ontario wines and Italian reds. I guess that’s about as narrow as I could get it. If I had to say one wine, I would say a Gabbiano Chianti, simply because that’s a place where I’ve visited and stayed there and we have a few bottles and we drink them regularly.
Claire Biddiscombe is the Editorial Assistant with Wine Access magazine and Managing Editor on the Canadian Wine Annual. Her work has appeared in print and on community radio stations across the country. She is the magazine’s resident science nut.
The top wines of Campania are mostly grown in the hilly province of Avellino, close to the town of Avellino. The best whites are the ageworthy, honeyed, nutty DOCG Fiano di Avellino and the fresh, complex DOCG Greco di Tufo. The top red is the intense, long-lasting DOCG Taurasi, made mostly from aglianico. The latest DOCG is Aglianico del Taburno, also anchored around aglianico.
Even more famous, perhaps, are the DOC Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio (Tears of Christ) red (made from piedirosso) and white (made from coda di volpe del Vesuvio) wines, produced from the volcanic soils on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius.
Until 1990, there was only one commercial winery in Avellino: the impressive Mastroberardino. It still makes the most-reputed wines, although there are now hundreds of producers in Campania.
The wine history of this hilly region, the “shin” of Italy’s boot, goes back at least 3,000 years. Campania has several native grapes of historical significance, including fiano, known to the Romans as vitis apiana; greco, introduced by the Greeks; coda di volpe (“Tail of the Fox”), named by Pliny the Elder for the shape of its cluster; and, last but not least, piedirosso (“Red Foot”), also called per' e palummo (“Dove’s Foot”), so named because of its red stems at full ripeness, similar to the red feet of the local doves or pigeons.
Pliny, who died during the eruption of Vesuvius of 79 AD, must have loved his wines. He also wrote of Falernian wines, which were likely made from aglianico, and are reflected in the current DOC Falerno del Massico. Aglianico is possibly the oldest cultivated grape variety in Italy; its name stems from the word "Hellenic," meaning it arrived around 750 BC, courtesy of the Greeks.
40° 54' North (Avellino)
29,000 hectares
Food-friendly whites and reds, the most famous being the long-aging Taurasi DOCG reds made from aglianico.
There are plenty of hilly vineyard areas with some high-altitude slopes, with mainly volcanic and lime/clay soils. Campania has a mild, Mediterranean climate, with a long growing season and diurnal temperature variations from mountain breezes.
In the province of Avellino, minimum 85 percent aglianico; long-lasting, tannic reds with good acidity.
Minimum 85 percent fiano, up to 15 percent (combined) greco, coda di volpe and trebbiano permitted.
Hilly area north of Avellino, volcanic ash and calcareous tufa soils, minimum 85 percent greco, up to 15 percent fiano.
Minimum 85 percent aglianico, just achieved DOCG this year.
There are many, the most famous being Vesuvio, where Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio is made. Others include Aversa, Campi di Flegrei, Capri, Castel San Lorenzo, Cilento, Costa d'Amalfi, Falerno del Massico, Galluccio, Guardia Sanframondi/Guardiolo, Irpinia, Ischia, Penisola Sorrentina, Sannio, Sant'Agata dei Goti, and Solopaca.
Mastroberardino, Feudi di San Gregorio, Terredora
1999, 2003, 2004 for reds; 2010, 2007, 2006 for whites
1.8 million hectolitres
Fly to Naples (try KLM, Delta, Alitalia, Lufthansa or Air Canada), then drive about 60 kilometres east, passing Mount Vesuvius, to Avellino, at the heart of Campania.
Grappa may not be the first alcohol that comes to mind when you’re planning to make martinis. But a young grappa, served chilled, can give exciting new flavours to a classic cocktail. Try it in a recipe where you’d normally use vodka and see what you think. A new hit flavour combination? Perhaps.
Quite simply, a shot of espresso and a shot of grappa. Serves 1.
There are myriad versions of this recipe; here’s one of our favourites, a simple but trendy twist on a classic drink. And just like any traditional dry martini, it packs a whallop of alcohol. Imbibe at your own risk.
1 ½ oz grappa
1 ½ oz dry vermouth
Shake with ice in a cocktail shaker. Strain and serve in a martini glass. Serves 1.
2 oz grappa
½ oz triple sec
2 oz lemon juice
Mix in a cocktail shaker and serve in a martini glass. Serves 1. Courtesy of Donna Tinus, ehow.com.
1 oz grappa
1 oz Drambuie
1 oz Kalhua
Shake in a cocktail shaker and serve over ice. Serves 1. Courtesy of Donna Tinus, ehow.com.
Read "Glorious Grappa" to learn how artisanal producers are reinventing Italy's classic spirit.
sboettcher@wineaccess.ca
In September 2010, I realized my dream of visiting Madeira, Portugal. Since entering the wine industry and discovering the region, I have been captivated by its wine, geography and history — it was wonderful to finally see it in person. I plan to return soon, for a wine trip and a vacation.
Now that I’ve crossed Madeira off my list, I have been thinking about the other wine regions that I would like to visit, but it’s hard to choose.
Tom Firth is a writer, wine consultant, judge and a member of the Wine Access National Tasting Panel. He loves to chat about all things wine and blogs for wineaccess.ca, tweets as @cowtownwine and is a general nuisance.
Some beverage enthusiasts have a bias against grappa.
And it’s clear (pardon the pun) how that bias originated. Grappa is a clear spirit made from the leftovers of winemaking; how can you make a fine spirit from grape garbage…Dionysian detritus?
But grappa detractors need to taste some of the artisanal versions coming from Italy these days; traditional family producers, including Nardini, Fratelli Brunello, Nonino, Tosolini and Poli, are creating grappas that deserve a second taste.
Grappa is distilled from pomace: the skins, seeds and stems of grapes, leftover after pressing them to make wine. The pomace, vinaccia in Italian, still contains a significant amount of wine, so it is pragmatic to distill it and get every last drop of alcohol. In Italy, the process is done with steam-heated distillation of the pomace, traditionally in discontinuous alembic copper stills. Heating with direct flame would burn the pomace.
Although there’s a legend that a Roman solder made the first grappa in about the 2nd century AD, the true origin is not clear. It is well documented, though, that steam distillation began to be used in about 1300 to 1400 AD, and vinaccia distillation techniques are documented in 17th-century writings of Jesuit Monks.
Good grappa can have a range of flavours, depending on the grape varieties, freshness of the pomace and the distiller’s skill and intentions, but it should always be smooth, with floral, fruit and/or herbal aspects. The herbal (typically anise) character, stemming from the, well, stems and skins, separates grappa from its rich cousin, eau-de-vie, which is made only from wine.
Italians drink grappa straight, typically as a digestif after the meal, or perhaps as a nightcap. Some add it to espresso to make caffè coretto, literally “corrected coffee.” Grappa is used in cooking, and can be paired with food, such as in restaurants in the Veneto city of Bassano del Grappa, home of several grappa producers, including Nardini and Poli.
Young grappa is best served chilled at about 9 to 13°C — some Italians keep it in the freezer — but oak-aged and riserva versions are better at around 17°C. You can buy small tulip-shaped grappa glasses, but single-malt thistles (scotch glasses) and brandy snifters also work well.
Poli, a fourth-generation grappa maker and Veneto distiller, is one of easiest names to find in the Canadian market.
Jacopo Poli and his siblings make a range of products: varietal cuvées from white and red grapes (e.g. moscato, traminer, pinot noir, merlot); distilled pomace from special wines like the famous Veneto dessert wine torcolato (“Amorosa de Decembre”); barrel-aged grappas matured in barrique or used rum, sherry, etc. casks, as well as infused grappa-based liqueurs. Grappa is often sold in beautiful packages, and Poli is no exception. All of the family's grappas are marketed in gorgeous hand-blown glass bottles.
Back in 1898, Jacopo Poli’s great-grandfather took his still door-to-door on a horse-drawn cart, collecting vinaccia for grappa from neighbouring farm winemakers. The Poli family no longer goes door-to-door; instead, they now use an alembic still with 12 copper cauldrons.
Jacopo says he was “born in a still,” which shows his passion for grappa, a passion that is evident in the quality of his fine sprits.
Indeed, under the guidance of artisanal distillers, grappa is far from Dionysian detritus.
Rather, it’s the nectar of the gods.
NS $30/700ml
A fairly simple spirit, with forward red fruit in the nose, potent alcohol and an almost grapey nature. Fiery in the nose and mouth, but drinkable.
AB $105/500ml, ON $109/500ml, QC $75/500ml
The distillate of pomace from the famous Torcolato dessert wine from Veneto, made from vespaiolo. This has a forward, attractive, herbal, anise nose and good body, but is elegant, with caramel, nut, dried fruit and anise flavours, then a long, warm finish. This is a fine spirit.
AB $62/700ml, ON $40/700ml, QC $197/3,000ml
Made from pomace of red wine grapes, including merlot and cabernet sauvignon. A herbal and earthy nose greets the taster, followed by a fiery spirit in the mouth. You can almost feel the grape tannins. Medium-bodied with a hot finish. Macho stuff.
NS $25/200ml winery and private liquor stores in Halifax
This Nova Scotia-made spirit (made from muscat pomace, but not really grappa, since it is not from Italy) won Best in Class at the International Wine and Spirits Competition in 2010. Made using a traditional German “farm still,” it has a very floral and fruity personality, with a soft and round, herbal nose, full body, and a long, intense finish.
Today's picks feature wines from Spain, Italy, the United States and France. Click on the wine name to view the full tasting note.
Allison McNeely is the web editor of Wine Access. Her work has appeared on websites, blogs and in print. She loves running and is the magazine's resident web nerd.
1 cup water
1 oz dried porcini mushrooms*
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 small carrot, peeled, finely chopped
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
8 oz sweet Italian sausages, casings removed
8 oz veal stew meat, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup dry red wine
2 14-oz cans low-salt chicken broth
1 28-oz can whole tomatoes in juice
2 bay leaves
2 tsp chopped fresh sage
1 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed
1 lb fresh pappardelle or purchased fettuccine
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Bring 1 cup water and mushrooms to boil in small saucepan. Remove from heat. Let stand 15 minutes. Strain soaking liquid through paper-towel-lined sieve into bowl. Coarsely chop mushrooms. Set liquid and mushrooms aside.
Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion, carrot, 1/4 cup parsley and garlic. Sauté until vegetables are tender but not brown, about 5 minutes.
Push vegetables to side of skillet. Add sausage and cook until brown, breaking up with back of fork, about 4 minutes. Add veal and sauté until brown, about 5 minutes. Add wine. Increase heat to high and boil until wine is almost evaporated, about 5 minutes.
Add 1 cup chicken broth; boil 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add reserved mushroom liquid. Simmer until liquid is almost absorbed, about 5 minutes.
Transfer mixture to processor. Using about 4 on/off turns, process just until coarsely chopped. Return mixture to skillet.
Mix in tomatoes with juices, bay leaves, sage, fennel seeds and porcini mushrooms. Reduce heat to low. Simmer uncovered until sauce thickens, breaking up tomatoes with fork, adding remaining chicken broth 1/2 cup at a time and stirring occasionally, about 1 hour.
Season with salt and pepper. (Ragù can be made 2 days ahead. Cool slightly. Chill uncovered until cold, then cover and keep chilled.)
Cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain. Add sauce to pasta pot and rewarm over medium heat. Add pasta and toss to combine. Transfer to bowl. Sprinkle with cheese and remaining 2 tablespoons parsley.
*Dried porcini mushrooms are available at Italian markets, specialty foods stores and many supermarkets.
Fontanafredda Barbera d’Alba
Bersano Nirvasco Barolo
Chateau Pey La Tour Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley Sin Zin Zinfandel
Recipe: Bon Appétit, May 2000
Read Bill Zacharkiw's argument for why we need to save indigenous grapes, and then try a few of these suggested picks.
Alsace, France
Tasted By: Bill Zacharkiw
BC: $12 — consignment, Authentic, ON: $12, QC: $13
Sardinia, Italy
Tasted By: Stuart Tobe
BC: $26 specialty, AB: $26, ON: $18, QC: $18
Kindzmarauli, Kakheti, Georgia
Tasted By: Anthony Gismondi
BC: $20 specialty
Lacrima di Morro D’Alba, Italy
Tasted By: Craig Pinhey
NB: $15
Dão, Portugal
Tasted By: Jeff Davis
BC: $12, ON: $10
Mendoza, Argentina
Tasted By: Tom Firth
BC: $13, AB: $12, MB: $10, QC: $13
Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, Penedès, Catalunya, Spain
Tasted By: Anthony Gismondi
BC: $14 specialty, AB: $13, MB: $13, SK: $12, ON: $12, QC: $13, NB: $14, NS: $14, NL: $15, PEI: $11, YK: $17
Salento, Italy
Tasted By: Tom Firth
AB: $17
Mantinia, Greece
Tasted By: Jeff Davis
BC: $19, AB: $19, MB: $17, SK: $19, ON: $12
Veneto, Italy
Tasted By: Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson
MB: $14, ON: $13
Photo: German Wine Institute
In a country that produces the greatest variety of wine in the world (more than 600 grape varietals), it is no surprise to find wine producers with plans in a multitude of divergent directions. But a common thread does exist throughout Italy’s 20 wine-producing regions, represented by a movement towards indigenous varietals and sustainability.
Each of Italy’s wine-producing regions is diverse and distinct with respect to the grape varietals grown and the styles of wine produced. Up-and-coming regions include Le Marche, Calabria, Campania and Sardinia.
And while there was a distinct movement in the 1990s toward the inclusion and use of “international” varietals like cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah, the direction has definitely shifted to the use of indigenous grapes: nero d’avola, frappato and catarratto from Sicily; lacrima, verdicchio, pecorino, and passerina from Marche; ribolla gialla and friulano from Friuli; cannonau, cagnulari and vermentino from Sardinia; sagrantino from Umbria; aglianico, fiano and falanghina from Campania. The list goes on and on.
Producers are not only focusing on making wine from these indigenous grapes; they are allowing the true character of the grape to express itself by the judicious use (or absence) of oak and minimizing winemaker intervention. Winemakers are taking what Mother Nature has given them (soil, climate, altitude, rainfall — collectively referred to as terroir), and expressing it with what’s in the bottle. The desire is for the wines to tell the story of their home.
The quest for wines with a sense of place has led to a movement of sustainability — working with nature, as opposed to taking from the environment. Wineries such as Radikon, Paolo Bea, COS, Oasi degli Angeli and others have set an example through natural wine production (without chemicals, stabilizers or other artificial agents) and promoting their ideals at wine shows like ViniVeri. Here, believers of “true” wine can taste, discuss and experience the fruits of winemakers “who share the common goals of employing biodynamic practices both in the vineyards and in the cellar,'” and, says winemaker Paolo Bea, “allowing the earth to impart its flavour to the grapes, preserve the knowledge of the land...(and obtain) a final product that is both pure and healthy.”
Tuscany, Piedmont, Veneto.
Falanghina; anything from Le Marche; fresh, clean whites.
Overpriced super-Tuscans; over-oaked wines; international imitators.
Fabiano: One of the best value wine producers in the world. The wines just keep getting better.
Col d’Orcia: One of Montalcino’s classic Brunello producers, led by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano.
Montevetrano: Silvia Imparato makes just one wine, and year-in, year-out, it is among the country’s best.
Marotti Campi: Lorenzo Marotti Campi is a huge proponent of Marche’s indigenous grape varietals.
De Angelis: The Italian press refer to the De Angelis Rosso Piceno as a “consumers’ dream,” due to its great price-quality ratio.
Cabutto: In a sea of Piedmont’s great wines, the Barolos and Barbera are making wine lovers stand up and take note.
Check out more than 2,200 reviews of Italian wines.
