For years, German riesling languished in the secret realm of wine geeks, a constant favourite among those in the trade, yet vastly under-appreciated by a wide swath of the wine-consuming public.

Blame this on several factors: confusing labels, residual sugar and those skinny bottles, all compounded by the bad taste left by mass-produced dreck foisted on the public back in the early 1970s. The skinny bottles are still there, and so is the sweetness — if you want it — but German riesling is finally enjoying its rightful place in the sun.

Riesling is not the only game in town, but it is Germany’s claim to fame and it accounts for most plantings in premier growing regions: Mosel, Rheingau, Pfalz, Nahe and Rheinhessen. Interestingly, it accounts for only 20 percent of the land under vine, which it shares with varietals such as müller-thurgau, sylvaner, spätburgunder (pinot noir) and, most notably, dornfelder. The Germans drink a surprising amount of pinot noir and, while it tends to be light and simple, there are serious efforts; most, however, is consumed within their domestic market.

Another surprising fact is most of the riesling consumed domestically is fully dry: mouth-puckering, lemon-sucking, palate-scraping dry. This is some kind of kooky paradox; the rest of the world was resistant to slightly sweet wines, so producers began to augment the traditional styles with wines that were fermented fully dry. German consumers embraced the dry style around the same time the rest of the world figured out sweetness lends riesling balance, age-worthiness and food-friendly joy.

Johannes Selbach, who produces some of the finest wines in the Mosel, was in Calgary and Vancouver this past October. He tells me Germans are returning to the traditional fruity styles.

Riesling is a cool-climate, high-acid grape and, if you ferment it fully dry, it will deliver loads of natural acidity. With time in the cellar — five years or more — the acidity softens and the wines become more balanced.

The off-dry versions (now known as the “fruity” style in German wine lingo), while also age-worthy, tend to be balanced right out of the gate, especially with food. The Mosel (formerly known as the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) and the Rheingau contain the most quality wine, but the Nahe, Rheinhessen and Pfalz are delivering better wines all the time, especially from such stars as Dönnhoff, Gunderloch and Müller-Catoir.

The Germans have attempted to simplify some labels — especially in the basic Qualitätswein category — but do your homework to feel comfortable when shopping. In a wine world proliferated with high-alcohol, super-extracted oak bombs, riesling is a breath of fresh air.

Take it in.

Prominent Wine Regions in Germany

Mosel, Rheingau, Pfalz.

German Varieties/Wine Styles on the Rise

Pinot noir, off-dry (fruity) riesling.

German Varieties/Wine Styles on the Decline

Sylvaner.

Classic Wine Producers in Germany

Egon Müller: These wines are expensive, rare and sublime; top examples can age for decades.

Selbach Oster: Some of the Mosel’s finest wines, and some of the most reasonably priced relative to their high quality.

Gunderloch: Wines from Gunderloch’s Nackenheim vineyards are exceptional; the estate also produces amazing late-harvest wines.

Up-and-Coming Wine Producers in Germany

Wittmann: A first-rate Rheinhessen producer, certified biodynamic.

Gruen: Produces wines in the Rheingau and Mosel. Well-priced and well-made wines, with a focus on environmental stewardship.

Check out almost 400 reviews of German wines.

Photo courtesy of the German Wine Institute

94 Reif 2009 First Growth Riesling TBA

Niagara River, Ontario, Canada

A bright gold colour, with an intense nose of honey, citrus and apricot, with a rich and creamy texture and terrific acidity. This is an experience on its own, but it can be paired with foie gras or crème brûlée.

Tasted By: Craig Pinhey
ON: $50/200 ml winery

91 Gustave Lorentz 2006 Reserve Riesling

Alsace, France

A light gold colour, with a gorgeous, ripe apple and honey nose. Full-bodied with good acidity, this wine is showing its age a little bit, but in a very good way — petrol and honey notes. Drink with someone else who understands riesling.

Tasted By: Craig Pinhey
NB: $20 

90 Cave Spring 2008 CSV Riesling

Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada

A pale colour, with light and subtle mineral and citrus candy notes. This is very young tasting, but elegant and quite dry, with tart and racy acidity on the palate. It is rather austere and needs time to develop, but is already showing its pedigree. If you are drinking it now, pair it with fresh seafood, unadorned with butter or a cream sauce.

Tasted By: Craig Pinhey
AB: $36  ON: $30 Vintages  

90 Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr 2008 Rosacker Riesling

Alsace, France

Straw-coloured, with lots of mineral, floral and lemon notes. A very acidic finish. This wine is austere and built to last.

Tasted By: Craig Pinhey
QC: $25  

89 Penfolds 2009 Bin 51 Riesling

Eden Valley, Australia

A pale straw colour, with an attractive wet stone, floral and lemon-lime citrus nose.  A light and pretty Riesling with refreshing acidity from the cool climate terroir. Enjoy it with spicy shrimp...on the barbie.

Tasted By: Craig Pinhey
BC: $32 specialty  SK: $27  MB: $29  NS: $22

(70 entries, 46 medals)

The entries were exactly the same as last year’s count, but medal ratio is up and, as in 2009, Ontario owns this category, taking all three golds and 11 of 12 silvers. Ontario-based winemaker Ann Sperling took the lone B.C. silver with the debut vintage from her family’s Kelowna property. Although several judges mentioned excess sulphur in these young rieslings (most are 2009s and 2008s), they generally agreed with Véronique Rivest that most “had good riesling character, but the best are mind-blowing and a clear indication that Canada can make stunning rieslings.” Indeed, noted Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson. “There is great intensity in a lot of these wines."

Gold

Tawse 2008 Wismer Lakeview Riesling, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $25

Flat Rock Cellars 2009 Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $20

Tawse 2009 Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $20

Silver

Creekside Estate 2008 Butler’s Grant Vineyard Riesling, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario    $16

Vineland Estates 2008 St. Urban Riesling, Niagara Escarpment, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $20

Thirty Bench Wine Makers 2009 Triangle Vineyard Small Lot Riesling, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $30

Vineland Estates 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $14

Sperling Vineyards 2009 Old Vines Riesling, East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $29

Inniskillin 2009 Winemaker’s Series Two Vineyards Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $18

Thirty Bench Wine Makers 2009 Riesling, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $19

Tawse 2009 Misek Vineyard Riesling, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $25

Thirty Bench Wine Makers 2009 Steel Post Vineyard Small Lot Riesling, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $30

Hidden Bench 2009 Estate Riesling, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $24

Huff Estates 2008 Reserve Riesling, Prince Edward County, Ontario     $20

Angels Gate 2008 Sussreserve Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $14

Bronze

Gehringer Brothers 2009 Private Reserve Riesling, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $15

Dirty Laundry 2009 Riesling, Summerland, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $19

Mission Hill 2009 Reserve Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $19

Tawse 2009 Quarry Road, Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $22

Vineland Estates 2008 Dry Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $14

Flat Rock Cellars 2009 Riesling, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $17

Wild Goose Vineyards 2009 Stoney Slope Riesling, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $20

Huff Estates 2008 Riesling Off-Dry, Ontario     $18

Intrigue Wines 2009 Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $17

Tawse 2009 Sketches of Niagara Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $18

Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars 2009 Fox Croft Vineyard Riesling, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $25

Jackson-Triggs Niagara 2008 Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Riesling, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario    $20

Henry of Pelham 2007 Speck Family Reserve Riesling, Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $30

Calamus 2008 Vinemount Ridge Riesling, Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $17

Blasted Church 2009 Riesling, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $19

CedarCreek 2009 Riesling, East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $18

See YA Later Ranch 2009 Riesling, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $15

Wild Goose Vineyards 2009 God’s Mountain Riesling, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $20

Angels Gate 2007 St. John Vineyard Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $22

Rosewood 2008 Renaceau Vineyard Reserve Riesling, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $25

Magnotta 2008 Special Reserve Dry Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $13

Tantalus 2009 Riesling, East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $23

Riverview Cellars 2009 Riesling, Niagara River, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $17

Red Rooster Winery 2009 Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $16

Camelot Vineyards 2009 Camelot Estate Riesling     $25

Mt. Boucherie 2009 Estate Collection Riesling, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia     $15

Nk’Mip Cellars 2009 Riesling, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $18

Gray Monk 2009 Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $17

Quails’ Gate Winery 2009 Dry Riesling, Westbank South, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia     $17

Hillebrand 2009 Ghost Creek Vineyard Showcase Riesling, Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario     $25

Orofino Vineyards 2009 Riesling, Cawston, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia     $20

See more results from the Wine Access 2010 Canadian Wine Awards

Riesling might be the world’s most misunderstood grape varietal. It’s received a bad rap due to the all-too-pervasive lacklustre, apple juice-style wines that our parents drank in the 1970s. Fortunately, the image of this noblest of varieties is on the mend, thanks in part to wines like these that highlight riesling’s vibrancy, diversity and versatility.