More than a dozen years ago, many of the wine world’s movers and shakers travelled to Seattle, Washington, to attend the 1998 World Vinifera Conference called Pathways to the 21st Century. As the title suggests, the two-day symposium focused on the future of wine, taking into account vineyards, production and marketing.

Among the hotter topics was the notion of “somewhereness”: developing geographical place names or appellations to differentiate things like ubiquitous varietal wine. Merlot and chardonnay were quick to come under scrutiny, as most growers were concerned about falling prices in the face of what was then large and pending production increases. Most of that has come true, and selling wine that comes from somewhere, be it an appellation, sub-appellation, vineyard or vineyard block, is a daily mantra in 2011.

Markets of Opportunity was another well-attended session that explored the nuances of selling to a whole new wine audience of African-American, Chinese, Gay and Lesbian, Hispanic and Generation X wine consumers. You can add millennials to that list and it is all in the works.

No one was thinking about a massive recession, but the added weight of a worldwide economic downturn has only heightened some of the projected outcomes of that conference.

Techology to Design the Perfect Vineyard

Yet, of all the seminars I attended, it was Vineyards in the 21st Century that made the biggest impression on me. Globetrotting Australian viticulturist Dr. Richard Smart spoke to the future of the 21st-century vineyard, focusing on developments likely to appear between 1998 and 2020.

As it happens, Smart’s thesis that, by 2010 or sooner, serious grape growers would employ modern technological devices such as global positioning satellites (GPS) to collect all the necessary data to construct the vineyard of the future is now fact. Back then, Smart built a virtual vineyard right in front of the audience on a large computer screen.

Using raw data to predetermine the vineyard’s ability to grow grapes, the variables were run through a computer and the results were super-imposed back over a map of the site. In less than 15 minutes, a new vineyard was born using decades of valuable research information.

Several times in the last decade, I have found myself standing in such vineyards (often six feet below the surface in a recently dug pit that exposes the subsoil) discussing clones, rootstocks, the declination of the slope, the altitude, the water content, heat units, soil structure, wind direction and just about anything that would affect the eventual growing life of the vines that would be planted. Nothing is left to the imagination; every vine is in synch with its rootstock and subsoil, working with all of the above-mentioned factors.

Health Benefits of Wine

This scenario assumes growers want to make the very best-quality wine possible, yet what if the focus is on growing grapes that are recognized more for being good for your health?  Smart talked about vineyards that could result from owners promoting the healthful benefits of wine and planting grapes based on the fruit’s ability to produce those elements thought to be beneficial to health.

For example, pinot noir contains several times the amount of the much-sought-after anti-oxidant resveratrol than other red wines do. So pinot noir may be bottled and advertised as healthier for you than, say, shiraz or merlot, which have lower naturally occurring levels of the same life-preserving element.

Future of Wine is in Argentina and Spain

The recession likely stymied this out-there marketing trend, but sustainable, organic and biodynamic grape production has never been more prevalent in the wine world as wineries struggle to capture the interest of modern consumers. When asked who would conquer the wine world in the new millennium, Smart predicted Argentina and Spain would be at the top of the list. Argentina is one of the few countries with no restrictions on imported vines and, as a result, Smart called its vineyards among the most advanced in the world. Contrast that with his crushing assessment of North America’s vineyards that “in many cases are as much as 40 years behind the times.”

About Spain, Smart rightly pointed to the 600,000-acre La Mancha region that has recently discarded its traditional, regional wine-growing laws in favor of modern grape growing methods that include the use of irrigation. This, in concert with as diverse a collection of grape varieties as anywhere on earth, and terra rossa soil identical to Australia’s famed Coonawarra region, would make La Mancha every bit as important as Napa Valley or Bordeaux by 2020.

Okay, La Mancha is on a run, but it is not quite Bordeaux, yet. You can’t win them all. But Smart did get back on track at the end of his presentation when he said, “Only the attitude of people will differentiate regions in the future.” Noted wine names such as Nicolas Catena, Alvaro Palacios, Telmo Rodriguez, Jesse Jackson, Eduardo Chadwick, Robert Hill Smith, Anthony von Mandl, Alberto Antonini, Michel Rolland and Daniel Castaño stand as examples. Each (and there are many more) has pursued a passion for “somewhereness” and, in doing so, has produced wine that makes the early 21st century the best time ever to be a wine buyer, and that`s something we can all drink to.

This article originally appeared in the September 2011 issue of Avenue Calgary magazine.

I never considered being a winemaker when I was growing up, not when I could be an astronaut and fly to the moon. With a space launch every other month and a race to the moon underway, NASA looked very attractive to me. Even more appealing was a life in professional sports; hockey and football looked like dream jobs.

Alas, as John Lennon opined, “Life is what happens while you are busy making other plans.”

What never occurred to me was getting a job as a winemaker.

These days, I wonder: What if?

The first winery I ever visited was in California, some 30 years ago. In those days, winemakers were just beginning to spread their wings. If you could make wine and tell a story, you were highly sought-after and valuable.

Before long, the best winemakers were getting their names on some of the winery’s best labels and, in some cases, the very best were allowed to make a small batch of wine they called their own. Long before the big companies rearranged the wine business, winemakers ruled, and some were even given the keys to the kingdom.

Winemaker Skills

Things are different in today’s economy, where the brand is king, but there is still a shortage of what I would term the archetypal winemaker. To get the job done, you need a lot of skills. Passion would be first on my hiring list, but the job requires so much more. A strong science background helps a lot. An interest in viticulture, and ideally formal training, is a must.

Then there are the basic skills of production, as well as the ability to think fast and to make crucial and decisive decisions. Last, but not least, you have to excel, to perform your job at its highest level. You only get one chance a year to get it right.

I often marvel at the skill of the chief winemaker in large wineries, orchestrating dozens of employees, keeping track of 50,000 barrels, scores of tanks of wines and endless bottling schedules, while following a strict set of appellation rules and dealing with the vagaries of the weather.

If that doesn’t sound daunting enough, add two to three months of travel to meet with distributors and educate the people who sell your wine. Add dozens of media interviews, endless tastings, and too many formal meals. You need, well, an iron constitution to get the job done.

The Evolution of Winemaking

The modern winemaker comes at wine from so many different angles, and with so much more information, it remains to be seen how winemaking will develop as we move through the next millennium.

But the best will likely do what has always been done: very little.

When I became a wine writer, I was determined to write a treatise on Burgundian winemaking but, to my great surprise, as I tried to uncover the secret of how great Burgundy is made, I learned there is very little “making” of wine. It’s hardly enough for a good story. The grapes are picked and then gently pressed, open-fermented and put in a barrel. There’s a bit of stirring, a racking or two, some blending and voila, the wine is born.

If I had known it was that easy to make wine when I was young, I would have gladly traded my dreams of shooting for the moon to work in a hillside vineyard to the biodynamic rhythms of the lunar orbit.

Really, it’s a good lesson about life: with almost everything, less is more. Just ask any winemaker you meet.

Winemaking is often thought of as a trade that is passed through generations, from one winemaker to another. While this is still true, some winemakers are opting to formalize their education with a degree in oenology or viticulture.

Here are five universities and colleges that grant degrees in winemaking.

Oeonology and Viticulture, Brock University

Students can obtain a Bachelor or Master of Science in Oenology and Viticulture through the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute. The program is designed to train students to work in a cool climate wine region, combining a science background with practical winemaking skills. Students are also exposed to the fundamentals of wine marketing, tourism and wine appreciation. Those with a science degree can opt for a certificate in Grape and Wine Technology.

Viticulture and Enology, University of California Davis

The grand-daddy of winemaking university programs, UC Davis has operated a viticulture and enology research and teaching department for more than 100 years. Students can obtain a Bachelor of Science or Master of Science. There is also an extension certificate in winemaking for distance learners and a Wine Executive program designed to teach winemaking and wine management skills.

Winery and Viticulture Technician, Niagara College Teaching Winery

The Niagara College Teaching Winery is the centre for wine education in the Niagara Peninsula. Students can attend the college to receive an education in winemaking and viticulture, wine business management or to become a certified sommelier. The college has its own lab equipment and vineyards and emphasizes "real world" wine skills.

Viticulture and Enology, Cornell University

Cornell created its undergraduate program to respond to the demand for winemaking professionals in the New York and Northeast wine regions and its curriculum focuses on cool climate winemaking. The program allows students to customize their degree through electives, such as business management courses, and to learn through an internship.

Wine Research Centre, University of British Columbia

The Wine Research Centre accepts science graduate students to conduct research on viticulture and oenology. The Wine Research Centre studies the molecular genetics of wine yeasts, grapevines and the aging of wines produced in B.C. It has a wine library that holds up to 22,000 bottles of wine for careful study, among other neat toys.

Photo: Greg Harness

A winery is a labour of love.

It’s also a commitment.

The average lifespan of a grapevine is 25 years, but some vines can produce for 100 years or more. A newly planted vineyard won’t produce for a few years. And, most likely, the fruit will improve with time.

The founders’ hard work will benefit future generations, regardless of whether wine runs in the family, like the Mondavis of California, or an eager outsider steps up to the plate, as in the case of Chile’s Errazuriz.

Wine Access interviewed five pairs of wine professionals from well-known producers around the world. One is the experienced veteran, the other, the talented, interested protégé. They shared their passions, opinions and cellar inventories with us. Now, we're passing them on to you. (Claire Biddiscombe)

Treasury Wine Estates: Peter Gago, from Penfold's, and Oliver Crawford, from Devil's Lair

Continuum Estate: Tim Mondavi and Dante Mondavi

Errazuriz: Francisco Baettig and Rodrigo Zamorano

Château des Charmes: Paul Bosc and Paul-André Bosc

Trefethen Family Vineyards: Janet Trefethen and Hailey Trefethen

These interviews are part of our feature on winemaking families from the June/July 2011 issue.

With roots in Australia dating back to 1844, Penfolds offers a range of red and white wines, including the renowned Grange, one of the world's most iconic wines.

Peter Gago, the chief winemaker for Penfolds, did a stint as a high school science teacher before becoming an award-winning winemaker.

And Oliver Crawford worked with Gago at Penfolds, first as the red winemaker, then as the senior white winemaker. While the two still work under the umbrella of Treasury Wine Estates (formerly Foster's), Crawford is now the winemaker at Devil’s Lair Winery in Margaret River, Australia.

Peter Gago, Penfolds

Q: Tell me about the moment you knew you were going to be successful as a winemaker.

A: Survival of my first “real” vintage,  away from the books and safety-blanket. Autonomous, sink or swim, and, thankfully, no major mistakes!

Q: When it comes to winemaking, what is your passion?

A: Finding that special parcel of fruit and creating something above and beyond, sometimes as a singular expression, sometimes as a critical, synergistic component in a blend.

Q: What do you want people to remember about your wines?

A: [That they are] real wines that last. Longevity, coupled with a high “drinkability index.”

Q: What are your hopes for the future of your winery, say 30 to 50 years down the road?

A: Penfolds has been in the business of making wine for 167 years. Initially family-owned, it survived its early years as a publicly traded company without much drama. The Penfolds winemaking and viticultural teams have been an autonomous, closely knit and dedicated team throughout, and one that puts wine first. May this continue.

Q: Is there anyone in the wine industry — dead or alive — you wish you could  have worked with? Why?

A: [Legendary Penfolds winemaker] Max Schubert, who passed away in 1994. [I admired] his vision, skill and ability to implement change. Ditto, [former Penfolds chief chemist] Dr. Ray Beckwith, currently 99 years old. Scientific acumen, team player, gentleman.

Q: What do you do when you’re not making wine?

A: Drinking and sharing wine — and dining. Surely, this is why we work — to support this lifestyle! Hobbies — music (all forms), running, travel.

Q: What are your thoughts on organic/biodynamic wine production?

A: Organic — yes. Biodynamic — mostly yes. Dealing with climate change and the extremes dealt by Mother Nature also requires intermittent intervention of other modes.

Q: What do you keep in your cellar?

A: I was a wine collector long before I was a winemaker. I’ve been collecting wines now for over a third of a century. How can I be that old? In the cellar are bottles of every colour and character. As a self-confessed champagne addict, I have a larger-than-expected “corner” spanning the decades. French, Italian, Spanish, German, Austrian wines sit comfortably alongside those of Australia — some going way back. Canada, too. Favourites? Too many for this article.

Oliver Crawford, Devil's Lair

Q: How did you get your start in the industry?

A: My father purchased a property in Orange, New South Wales [250 kilometres west of Sydney] and, with my help, we planted 30 acres of vines and started making wine. I fast realized that making wine is easier on the back than growing grapes.

Q: What was your big break? Tell me about the moment you knew you’d made it — that you were going to be successful — as a winemaker.

A: I guess when I was accepted as a red winemaker at Penfolds. Working at Penfolds is considered a pinnacle. However, personally, I feel that the big moment was when I took over the senior white winemaking position at Penfolds.

Q: When it comes to winemaking, what is your passion?

A: Chardonnay — it is such a wonderful variety. It makes truly magical wines.  There is so much that you can do with it from so many different regions.

Q: What do you want people to remember about your wines?

A: I want them to remember the moment: who they enjoyed the wine with, the place, the occasion. A good wine is only good if it is shared with people you enjoy being around.

Q: What are your hopes for the future of your winery, say 30 to 50 years down the road?

A: A sustainable industry that cares for the environment and the people we sell to. I am very much against unsustainable growing and making of wine, and I am very much against making “passion pop.” Wine is more than that!

Q: What do you do when you’re not making wine?

A: I love cooking and fishing (or any beach activity). I end up feeding the fish!

Q: What are your thoughts on organic/biodynamic wine production?

A: As an industry, we should all be aiming to grow in a sustainable manner. I support organic and biodynamic, but I also realize that it is not always possible given the vagaries of Mother Nature. At Devil’s Lair, we aim to grow and make our wines organically. We follow the principles and practices of organic growing, but we are not certified because, from time to time, we employ practices that are not certified.

These interviews are part of our feature on winemaking families from the June/July 2011 issue.

Tim Mondavi — son of the legendary Robert Mondavi — is the winegrower, partner and creator of Continuum Estate in Napa, California. Tim, who has grown up in the industry, continues to work closely with many family members, including his son, Dante Mondavi, who now handles national sales at Continuum.

While Continuum is a very young winery (the family started it in 2005), the Mondavi family has been making wine in North America for more than four generations.

Tim Mondavi

Q: How did you get your start in the industry?

A: Playing in the pomace piles at Charles Krug Winery as a toddler.

Q: What was your big break?

A: Having the right parents and an inspiring father.

Q: Tell me about the moment you knew you’d made it, that you were going to be successful on your own.

A: I don’t know that I ever thought before, or now, about being successful on my own. I have always had the benefit of growing up working with an inspired team that was united by a common goal and vision of success.

Q: When it comes to winemaking, what is your passion?

A: I have always loved getting to know the land through the wines. Today, my greatest satisfaction is more deeply understanding our Continuum estate.

Q: What do you want people to remember about your wines?

A: Extremely low yields from old vines give wines depth, nuance and refinement. The sheer joy and pleasure of enjoying them with a great meal.

Q: What are your hopes for the future of your winery, say 30 to 50 years down the road?

A: I would hope we have been able to realize to a much greater degree the potential of this great property. That it will be recognized among the great properties of the world. That future generations of our family and extended family feel as excited about its ongoing potential for improvement as much as I do now.

Q:  Is there anyone in the wine industry — dead or alive — that you wish you could work with? Why?

A: I have been really blessed to work with the great wine people of our time. I would have loved to have more time at Ornellaia in Bolgheri. I worked there for eight years but it was too short. I believe it had a big impact in influencing my vision for Continuum.

Q: What do you do when you’re not making wine?

A: Food, travel, swimming, scuba, cycling, reading, history, philosophy.

Q: What are your thoughts on organic/biodynamic wine production?

A: I strongly believe in the importance of both. Natural and organic farming have always been important to me.

Q: What’s in your wine cellar?

A: Burgundy, Tuscan and California wines.

Dante Mondavi

Q: How did you get your start in the industry?

A: I had the good fortune to be born into it. I started by gathering sugar/brix samples in the vineyard. I was jealous that my brother and sisters could drive the four-wheeler; I wanted to join them.

Q: What was your big break? Tell me about the moment you knew you’d made it — that you were going to be successful.

A: When my father trusted me in taking care of the Continuum cellar, when I was appointed cellar master beginning in 2007.

Q: Who are your influences? Mentors?

A: My grandfather, Robert Mondavi, and my father, Tim, as well as the whole Continuum team. The people I would most like to invite to dinner would be my great-grandfather Cesare and great-grandmother Rosa. I never met them, but they had such a huge influence on our family.

Q: Is there anyone in the wine industry — dead or alive — that you wish you could work with? Why?

A: Cesare Mondavi, my great-grandfather, to learn his history, which is our history, and to better understand what brought him into wine and what it was like dealing with being an immigrant and prohibition.

Q: When it comes to winemaking, what is your passion (blending, a particular grape, region etc.)?

A: Fermentation — the transformation of grape juice into wine. Also picking my dad’s brain on his experience and how this year is similar and different from years past.

Q: What do you want people to remember about your wines?

A: That they are epic — that they are reflective of this magnificent property. Creating wines of this quality requires a great deal of hard work. I also hope that everyone who tastes Continuum wines enjoys them.

Q: What are your hopes for the future of your winery, say 30 to 50 years down the road?

A: We hope to be established as a true first growth, amongst the finest estates in the world.

Q: What do you do when you’re not making wine?

A: Snowboarding, wakesurfing, barbecuing with family and friends, fishing in rivers, streams and oceans.

Q: What are your thoughts on organic/biodynamic wine production?

A: I believe in organic, but it has to be sustainable for many reasons. Being a green farmer is very important to me, but sometimes you have to adjust when Mother Nature throws you a curveball.

Q: What wines are in your cellar?

A: Napa reds from Pritchard Hill and Howell Mountain. Also Tuscan reds, such as those of Bolgheri and Chianti Classico Riserva.

These interviews are part of our feature on winemaking families from the June/July 2011 issue.

The Chilean winery Errazuriz has gained a great reputation for well-made, balanced wines that also get high scores in international competitions. Much of the credit for the winery's success lies with its winemaking team, headed by Francisco Baettig, with Rodrigo Zamorano at his side.

Francisco Baettig

Q: What was your big break? Tell me about the moment you knew you’d made it — that you were going to be successful — as a winemaker.

A: You can "make it" in professional terms by obtaining the position you always dreamed of in your favourite winery, or working overseas, or obtaining recognition or respect from your peers, or making wines with excellent reviews (high scores, medals, etc.), but winemaking is about reaching perfection, and perfection doesn’t exist. The secret, probably, is to make a wine that makes you happy, with an emotional connection, regardless of if it gets 75 points or if some people hate it.

Q: When it comes to winemaking, what is your passion?

A: My passion is blending. I love travelling, presenting wines, working in the cellar, and visiting the vineyard, but what I like the most is when it comes to making the final blends, so I can play with the different varieties and lots. I love working with sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon and I love Maipo Alto and cool-climate areas like our Aconcagua Costa.

Q: What do you want people to remember about your wines?

A: The wines I make today, I’d like it if they remember the wines as neat and polished, with a sense of typicity, where the fruit plays a big role. For the wines I’m working toward, I hope people remember that those wines are elegant wines with character, personality and finesse.

Q: What do you do when you’re not making wine? In other words, what are your main hobbies and interests that are not wine-related?

A: I used to have a few hobbies or interests like flying planes, playing squash, reading compulsively, travelling, trekking, etc., but now it is mainly family and reading. I still do some jogging and travelling. I guess it all depends on what stage of your life you are in — I have little kids and a lot of work!

Q: What are your thoughts on organic/biodynamic wines?

A: I believe in the principles of biodynamics, but not in its esoteric bits, nor in the possibility of managing big surfaces biodynamically. I respect it and I think in particular regions with dry climates, like Chile or California, it can work, but I don’t believe it results necessarily in better wines.

Q: Give us a cross section of wines in your cellar. Do you collect wines of any type or from any region in particular?

A: I’m a Francophile. I worked and studied in France and my wife is French; therefore guessing what are my favourite wines is not too difficult.

I have some wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy and Alsace. I also love Barolos and Brunellos and some wines from the south of Italy like Fiano. I’m a big fan of Spain. I always buy some late-harvest wines from
Alsace and Jurancon and icewine from Canada. I’m a huge champagne lover, so every time I go to France, I bring as many bottles home as I can. I owe a big debt to the Loire and Rhône. From the New World, I follow and like some specific producers, including Jordan in California, and Yalumba and Peter Lehmann in Australia. From Chile, I have sauvignon blanc, carmenère and cabernet sauvignon, mostly.

Rodrigo Zamorano

Q: Who was your mentor winemaker — the person who really taught you how to be a good winemaker?

A: My first mentor was Cecilia Guzmán, from Viña Haras de Pirque. Then, Richard Lavanoux, winemaker of Laroche, in France, allowed me to get some knowledge from the European industry and introduced me to the complex world of French wines. (And) actually, Francisco Baettig is a very inspiring boss.

Q: What was your big break? Tell me about the moment you knew you’d made it — that you were going to be successful — as a winemaker.

A: It may be too soon to call me a successful winemaker. Nevertheless, I try every day to do my best to produce great wines.

Q: When it comes to winemaking, what is your passion?

A: I enjoy very much tasting wine, but to taste wine with the person who made it, because it is at that moment when you realize the meaning of that wine.

Q: Is there anyone in the wine industry that you wish you could work with? Why?

A: Chilean winemakers such as Alvaro Espinoza or Andrés Ilabaca because they’re great professionals and I always find surprising good qualities in their wines.

Q: What do you do when you’re not making wine?

A: I love to cook, to read, play soccer and to do some swimming. I like also to travel around the world. But above all the things, I love to be with my family and to play with my kids.

Q: What are your thoughts on organic/biodynamic wine production?

A: I have tasted great organic and biodynamic wines. Why not? Who am I to define science? Biodynamics is a respectable way to produce wine.