Canada – US Wine Summit - a comparative Ontario tasting with Tara Q. Thomas

A couple of weeks back, my friend Tara Q. Thomas, senior editor at US-based Wine & Spirits magazine was in Toronto to join me in co-hosting a seminar on Greek wines (a sub-specialty of hers and mine). Afterwards, as a proud host, I offered to pour her a few local wines so she could cathch up with the scene here in Ontario (Tara had not been to Toronto since she was 17, a few years ago…). But what I was really interested in was how our tastes might compare and contrast, given our different backgrounds – a sort of Canada-US mini -summit on wine, with nothing on the line, nobody watching, no official reviews to be published. We tasted the same wines, open, and separately, with little-to-no communication or interaction at all. The results are below, including both Tara’s (un-manipulated) scores (TQT) and mine (un-manipulated as well) (JSZ) out of 100.

Some surprising results, I’d say. Surprising to be so close in views and opinions. The only significant variance on two wines is explained by a difference in scoring policy, according to Tara: “the W&S philosophy is to consider wines within the category they fall in, so, a Santorini can just as easily score a 94 as a Chassagne-Montrachet might, and a CVS chard can get a 92—though that may not be saying that it's as great as a Meursault that scores a 92”. At Wine Access, we take a more democratic, or communist, approach, where every wine is considered equal. Thus my fruity and juicy Gamay at 85 points in the grand scheme of all wines is more or less equal to Tara’s 90 points in the context of fruity juicy Gamays alone. So maybe there isn’t such a thing as an American palate and a Canadian palate, or maybe we’re just both ‘east coast’ palates. More investigation needs to be done. Perhaps the biggest difference to point out for now, then, is that Americans don’t capitalize grapes. Or I am too old-fashioned? In any case, here are the highlights:

2008 Tawse Winery Sketches of Niagara Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Canada

TQT: A simple, easy, riesling, this feels so bright and fresh it’s almost spritzy. It’s slightly grippy, but there’s plenty of sweet lime flavor to balance. Good summer quaffer. 87

JSZ: Clean, vibrant, classically-styled Riesling, with youthful citrus, apple blossom and green apple aromas. The palate is essentially dry, given the vibrant acidity, though overall it is more approachable at this stage than the 2007 Sketches, but should age well for 3-5 years. 872008

2008 Tawse Winery Misek Vineyard Riesling, 20 Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Canada

TQT: Very, very pretty, this delicate riesling has succulent fruit that falls somewhere between peaches and peach blossoms, with hints of herbs and sweet lime. It has a lovely, silky texture, and ends clean. 90

JSZ: Very fragrant and delicate floral nose - really engaging and above average complexity. Dry, lean and quite tight, crisp acid, lingering delicate green apple and wet stone finish. This is a really well-made wine, that will age nicely over the next decade I imagine. 90

2006 Cave Spring Chardonnay, Cave Spring Vineyard, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Canada

TQT: The bright citrus, orange, and sweet apple fruit feels simultaneously lifted by vibrant acidity and deepened by toasted almond notes. It’s all tethered by mouthwatering minerality—almost chalky in flavor—that holds the flavors long. 92

JSZ: Lean, tightly wound, highly mineral expression of Chardonnay, one of the finer efforts from Cave Spring. The palate is really well balanced, with minimal oak interference and pure stoney and white pepper flavours. Long finish. A fine wine. 91

2007 Daniel Lenko Viognier, Niagara Peninsula, Canada

TQT: This is a bit thick and hot, but it’s varietally spot-on, from the fragrant, floral peach scent to the orchard fruit flavor that fills its rich texture. 86

Richly perfumed, intensely packed Viognier with plenty of power, weight and extract. The palate is round and creamy, with generous alcohol and a long finish. Very solid wine, and always among the best in Ontario. 90

2007 Cave Spring Gamay, Niagara Peninsula, Canada

TQT: A gamay with grip, this is juicy with cherry fruit underlined by earth, minerals and black pepper; some serious picnic drinking. 90

JSZ: Light, fresh, simple and juicy Gamay that needs to be slightly chilled for best results. There is plenty of enticing red berry fruit and soft tannins, making this a wine to enjoy young and fresh. 85

2007 Cave Spring Pinot Noir, Niagara Peninsula, Canada

TQT: There’s a trace of ferrous minerality under the sweet, slightly baked cherry flavor of this pinot. The acidity picks up on finish, the wine finishing clean, with a light texture that makes it easy to drink. 87

JSZ: Fragrant and juicy, varietally true Pinot Noir here, with what seems like some partial carbonic or whole bunch fermentation, given the vibrant red berry fruit character. Fresh, lively end enjoyable in the short term. 86

2007 Tawse Winery Growers Blend Pinot Noir, Niagara Peninsula, Canada

TQT: Behind the sweet, charry oak, there’s fresh, red cherry-ish flavor and a hint of minerality. Give it a year or so to find a better balance. 88

JSZ: The oak is sticking out a bit on this wine at the moment so this needs another year or two in bottle to settle down, The palate is quite densely packed, however, with fine grained but structured tannins and above average finish. A fine, modern - new world style pinot with decent depth and power. 88

2007 Tawse Winery Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula

TQT: Very franc in its clear, abundant green peppercorn notes over black currant fruit, this has a lovely balance, bright acidity holding it firm yet light on its feet. 90

JSZ: Distinct Cabernet Franc character, with attractive lightly herbal nuances, more than enough fruit to soften out the edges and a nice dash of spice to add some interest. The palate is nicely layered with fine grained delicate tannins. Long finish. Very nicely done. 90