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88
Points |
Bonny Doon 2007 Vin Gris De Cigare Rosé
California, United States
Clean, very pretty, ripe strawberry & raspberry notes with above average class and complexity. On the palate it is dry and stylish with a vibrant yet polished character and offers more intrigue than just simple fruit. A very fine and food friendly rosé that is worth a detour.
ON $19.95 |
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| Argentina - Red |
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92
Points |
Masi 2006 Tupungato Corbec Corvina/Malbec Appasimento
La Arboleda, Mendoza, Argentina
This Amarone-style wine from Argentina (partially dried grapes) shows unmistakable raisined fruit character in a clean, floral and almost elegant expression; really fine concentration and complexity. The palate is full, firm, with structure-giving tannins, juicy acid, terrific fruit extract, and added complexity from cedary-tarry wood spice. Alcohol is high, but balanced by flavour intensity. This would be a fun one to throw in blind for the Amarone tasting and watch it beat up on wines twice the price. Best 2010-2020
ON $29.95 |
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91
Points |
Catena Alta 2005 Catena Alta Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
A little closed and tightly wound at present, though the nose reveals creamy, very integrated wood and a mixture of red, black and blue fruits, earth and spice for added complexity. Dry, fullish, succulent acidity, moderate tannins and balanced alcohol. All in all, this is a very classy, elegant version of Malbec with a certain amount of old world finesse. Drink now-2015.
ON $60.95 |
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89
Points |
Joffré E Haus 2004 Premium Malbec
Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina
Dense, impenetrable purple colour; lots of intensity and concentration evident on the nose, black fruit, spice, new wood (but not excessive). Dry, full bodied, with abundant rough and tumble tannins and balanced acidity, above average finish. This is a fine, solid, densely packed version of Malbec that will offer pleasure now with hearty winter stews and roasted meats, and cellar nicely for 3-5 years.
ON $25.95 |
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87
Points |
Bodega Jacques et Francois Lurton 2005 Gran Lurton Gran Rreserva Cabernet Sauvignon
Mendoza, Argentina
Simple, fruity, gently cedary and oaky with intriguing spice and high-toned red fruit notes, dried herbs and a touch of menthol. Dry, with a pinch of residual sweetness; an initially soft texture gives way to moderate but firm tannins, high alcohol and moderate acidity. Average finish. Correct; drink now-2010 to capture the fruit.
ON $20.95 |
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| Australia - Red |
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93
Points |
Henschke 2004 Keyneton Estate Euphonium
Barossa, South Australia
This blend of Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot from iconic producer Henschke shows uncommon class and elegance, not to mention complexity on the nose. There is a wonderful bouquet of dark fruit, savoury spice, fennel seed and background oak that reveals its pedigree. The palate is rich and medium-full bodied, with suave delicate tannins, juicy acidity and terrific flavour intensity. Long finish. A very fine, refined style of South Australian wine that is beginning to drink well now but should age gracefully to 2020 and beyond.
ON $56.95 |
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93
Points |
Wolf Blass 2004 Black Label Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon
South Australia, 32nd Vintage
An impressive and deeply concentrated Shiraz blend from Wolf Blass. Fully opaque-purple appearance foretells a nose-full of blackberry, black currant and sweet wood extract. The palate is full, fat, undeniably concentrated, firmly tannic and nicely spice-herbal infused, leading to a long, slight alcoholic finish. This needs another 2-4 years to meld together, and should hold for another decade or more beyond that.
ON $98.99 |
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91
Points |
D'Arenberg 2006 The Galvo Garage
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills, South Australia
Cabernet is blended here with Merlot and Petit Verdot in a typical Bordeaux left bank composition. I like the complexity apparent right off the nose, with quite typical spicy-cedary cabernet notes tied to dark fruit and attractive violet and rose petal aromas. The palate is fullish, nicely concentrated and dense without slipping into confiture flavours. Tarry, cedar, floral notes follow through, adding to the pleasure. Nicely done, and fairly priced. Drink now-2016.
ON $27.95 |
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90
Points |
The Colonial State 2006 Etranger Cabernet Sauvignon
Barossa Valley, South Australia
Sweet, ripe but not exaggerated fruit character is matched by light dusty earth notes, spice and integrated wood. On the palate it is dry and very nicely balanced with juicy acidity, moderate, polished tannins, reasonable alcohol and above average flavour intensity. Moderate plus finish, too. I like this style, it's food friendly and nicely drinkable with enough complexity to invite another sip.
ON $34.95 |
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90
Points |
Hazyblur 2005 Shiraz
Barossa Valley, South Australia
Intense, concentrated aromas offering damp earth, wet clay, black fruit and abundant oak; quite decent complexity. Dry, medium-full bodied, showing a measure of finesse and elegance amidst rich ripe fruit, high alcohol and plush tannins. This is fine quality, but impossible to qualify as a good value.
ON $77.95 |
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89
Points |
Clarence Hill 2005 Shiraz
McLaren Vale, South Australia
Dense, spicy, very varietally correct version of Shiraz here with intriguing cinnamon, dried violet, smoke and dark fruit aromas. Fullish, nicely balanced acid/alcohol, richly flavoured palate that punches well above its price category, making this one of the better values of the release.
ON $20.95 |
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89
Points |
Mount Langi Ghiran 2004 Cliff Edge Shiraz
Grampians, Victoria, Australia
The generally cooler climate of the Grampians region in Victoria produces more spicy versions of Shiraz, like this one from reliable producer Mount Langhi Ghiran. Plenty of black pepper, cinnamon, dried oregano and dusty earth join ripe but not jammy black fruit. The palate is dry, medium-full bodied, with juicy acid and moderate alcohol. Cedary-spicy flavours dominate here too. This would be a fine match with black tea-crusted rack of lamb.
ON $24.95 |
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88
Points |
Grant Burge 2003 The Holy Trinity Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre
Barossa, South Australia
Very caramel-sweet wood dominated nose with interesting walnut and peanut brittle aromas, though the fruit expression suffers. The palate is evolved, soft, plush almost silky textured - I like the intensity here as well as the length, but not much structure to ensure graceful ageing, so drink this up with grilled quail.
ON $37.95 |
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87
Points |
Kilikanoon 2006 The Medley
Barossa Valley/Clare Valley, South Australia
A southern Rhône-style GSM blend made from fruit sourced in both the Barossa and Clare Valleys. There is a big hit of jammy black fruit up front, followed by distinctive menthol/eucalyptus. Fairly one-dimensional overall. The palate gives a slight impression of sweetness, a soft, silky-smooth texture, average flavour intensity and length. this is a crowd pleaser, and would have pleased even more at $20
ON $26.95 |
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87
Points |
Groom 2006 Shiraz
Barossa Valley, South Australia
Deeply coloured and port-like on the nose, with nose-tingling alcohol and macerated fruit character. The sweet impression on the palate continues the port analogy, but tannins are soft, acidity low, and length abrupt, meaning this is all up front. Drink now.
ON $37.95 |
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86
Points |
Yalumba 2005 Mawson's Hill Block 3 Cabernet Sauvignon
Wrattonbully, South Australia
Clean, light intensity and moderately complex, though offers some inviting cherry-menthol aromas. Just barely off-dry impression on the palate; very average concentration and short finish. Pleasantly drinkable but nothing remarkable.
ON $19.95 |
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85
Points |
Blue Pyrenees 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Victoria, Australia
Like cough syrup in a glass, showing big mentholated cherry and medicinal herbs aromas. Medium bodied, light but firm tannins and pronounced acid. It's juicy but simple - serve with a slight chill next to grilled meats in need of a little spicing up.
ON $22.95 |
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85
Points |
Virgara Wines 2004 Shiraz
Adelaide Plains, South Australia
High-toned red fruit, raspberry jam and melted butter - not particularly complex. Dry, soft, light but grippy tannins, baked fruit and short, hot finish. Drink now.
ON $28.00 |
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85
Points |
Sandhurst Ridge 2005 Fringe Shiraz
Bendigo, Victoria, Australia
Curious spearmint leaf and cold cream, leathery/brettanomyces notes on the nose. Dry(ish), soft tannins, average flavour intensity and short finish. Drink now.
ON $30.00 |
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84
Points |
Mitchelton 2003 Print Shiraz
Central Victoria, Australia
Some VA noted initially on the nose of this wine; in any case very high-toned and acetic. The palate is hot and dry, and finishes short. Hard to chalk this up to a problematic sample, as this is rarely a function of bottle variation.
ON $44.95 |
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| Australia - White |
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86
Points |
Nick Faldo 2005 Selection Chardonnay
Coonawarra, South Australia
Screw cap. Clean, lightly fruity and oaky nose correct but not distinctive. The palate corresponds with pleasantly ripe fruit flavours and average intensity/concentration and finish. Drink now.
ON $18.95 |
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86
Points |
Smithbrook 2007 Sauvignon Blanc
Pemberton, Western Australia
Under ripe tropical fruit gives this a sweet/sour character, matched by grassy-vegetal notes. The palate is medium bodied, pleasantly round and fruity. Average length. Correct.
ON $18.95 |
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| Canada - Red |
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91
Points |
Stratus Vineyards 2005 Stratus Red
Niagara Peninsula, Canada
Best Stratus red made yet, according to wine maker JL Groux, and I would agree. It has a classic, Bordeaux-like nose, with lovely fragrant, red fruit, integrated barrel/cinnamon spice, and light floral notes, and really opens on aeration. The palate is dry, medium body, crafted more in an old world style, elegant mold, moderate + acid, medium tannins – surprisingly soft. This should age well, and show best 2010-2018.
ON $44.00 |
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89
Points |
Creekside Estate 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir
Niagara Peninsula, Canada
Pale red. Clean, open fragrant nose with stylish red raspberry, strawberry and integrated oak aromas of above average complexity. Dry, medium bodied, juicy acidity and balanced tannins/alcohol. A lively, highly successful Pinot from a challenging vintage. Drink now-2013.
ON $29.95 |
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86
Points |
Mike Weir 2006 Pinot Noir
Niagara Peninsula, Canada
This is the second appearance of this wine, so I presume it must have sold well on the initial release. I still find the nose to be quite volatile and the palate rather lean, resulting in a light, tart sour cherry flavoured wine. Drink now.
ON $22.25 |
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| Canada - White |
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91
Points |
Cave Spring 2006 CSV Riesling
Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Canada
A classic Niagara Riesling that is starting to show very nicely. The nose is full of wet stone, pear, stone fruit and citrus aromas. A pinch of residual sugar is balanced by lively, crisp acidity, lending a tight, slightly austere character that should age very nicely. The finish is long on acidulated citrus flavours. Drink now-2018.
ON $29.95 |
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91
Points |
Stratus Vineyards 2005 Stratus White
Niagara Peninsula, Canada
Barrel aged Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with some Riesling were blended in 2005 to create a wine of great flavour intensity, depth and excellent complexity. The nose has terrific floral and honeyed notes, while the wood that seemed a little dominant back in the spring when first tasted has integrated nicely. The palate is rich and creamy, with evident fat from lees contact balanced by a fine streak of acidity. Super wine.
ON $44.00 |
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88
Points |
Stratus Vineyards 2005 Wildass White
Niagara Peninsula, Canada
Clean, intriguing candied citrus, pineapple, dried flowers and barely detectable oak on the nose; Dry, soft texture and round with decent flavour intensity and zesty candied lime flavours on the palate. Drink now, at peak I suspect.
ON $19.00 |
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88
Points |
Flat Rock Cellars 2007 Nadja's Vineyard Riesling
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Canada
The 2007 Nadja's has a surprisingly advanced colour (gold highlights) and evolved bouquet with very floral, honeyed, ripe pear & apple aromas. The palate is dazzlingly acidic and comes across as fully dry, though without the concentration of previous vintages. this will be best in the short to mid-term.
ON $19.95 |
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| Chile - Red |
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92
Points |
Altaïr 2004 Alataïr Red
Cachapoal Valley, Chile
The 2004 Altaïr is a very clean and pure, cassis-driven red that results in an unmistakably Chilean-style wine. Oak is very nicely integrated, and the Carmenère adds its intriguing floral-herbal perfume to the mix. The palate is full, smooth and polished, with abundant, plush and velvety but structure -giving tannins, high yet balanced alcohol and long finish. A rather impressive wine to be drunk now-2020.
ON $64.95 |
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89
Points |
Santa Carolina 2006 VSC
Maipo Valley, Chile
With fruit (Cabernet, Carmenère, Malbec, Petit Verdot) sourced from both the Maipo and Colchagua Valleys, this densely packed red has a rich, very ripe, pure cassis fruit and cassis jam, with sweet vanilla extract nose - certainly impressive concentration, if a little one-dimensional. The palate is fat, with palpable glycerous texture, chewy yet ripe tannins, high alcohol (14.5%) and well-balanced acidity. All in all, this is a solid, full-bodied and concentrated wine with lost to offer up front, though lacks the complexity and finish of really top notch stuff. Decent Value nonetheless.
ON $29.95 |
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| Chile - White |
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89
Points |
Vina Garces Silva 2006 Amayana Sauvignon Blanc
San Antonio-Leyda Valley, Chile
Clean, pure, minerally expression of SB from the cool, coastal region of Leyda Valley. Plenty of citrus, wet stone, yellow grapefruit and green tropical aromas dominate, while the palate is rich and concentrated. High alcohol (14.5%), ripe acid, and long, juicy grapefruit finish. Very fine and flavourful example at an attractive price.
ON $20.95 |
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88
Points |
Viña Maipo 2008 Reserva Especial Sauvignon Blanc
Casablanca Valley, Chile
This is an attractive though rather reserved style of Sauvignon, showing typical grassy-grapefruit and green apple flavours and a touch of apple blossom without excess or exaggeration. Light and crisp on the palate; highly refreshing and well made. Drink now.
ON $17.95 |
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88
Points |
Montes Alpha 2006 Chardonnay
Casablanca Valley, Chile
A fullish, full flavoured style of Chardonnay with abundant but pleasant and high quality new oak influence and tropical mango-melon aromas. Slightly reductive/leesy character should disappear with 6 months or so in the cellar, then enjoy with rich, buttery fish dishes, lobster, scallops or even grilled pork tenderloin with pineapple glaze.
ON $21.95 |
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| France - Red |
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92
Points |
Château Patache D'Aux 2005 AC Medoc Cuvée Flora
Bordeaux, France
There is an immediate shifting of gears as you settle into this wine: lots of expensive smelling new wood influence is evident, as is the complexity offered by concentrated, perfectly-ripened red and black fruits. Quite modern style. The palate is dry, fullish and full of more chocolate--coffee flavours brought into focus by brisk acidity. Long finish. Solid well-made wine that should be best from 2010-2020.
ON $50.95 |
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92
Points |
Château Beauregard 2005 AC Pomerol
Bordeaux, France
A very fine 2005 Pomerol here, with intense ripe black fruit and high quality wood immediately evident on the classy nose. Complexity is enhanced with the addition of earth, spice and black tobacco. The palate offers a fullish, succulently fruity mouth feel and fine tannin/acid balance, leading to a long finish. Cellar this for another 3-4 years and enjoy 2012-2020+.
ON $67.95 |
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91
Points |
Patrick Lesec Sélections 2005 Châteauneuf Du Pape Les Pierres Dorées
Rhône Valley, France
Quite impressive and fairly priced Châteauneuf, still tightly wound and massively built, but should be very fine in 3-4 years. Full bodied and chalk full of ripe, chewy tannins, this offers a mouthful of tar, tobacco and savoury wood spice flavours carried through to a long finish on high (15.5%) alcohol. Drink 2012-2020+.
ON $46.95 |
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91
Points |
Château Beaucailloux 2005 La Croix De Beaucailloux St. Julien
Bordeaux, France
A lovely, classically built wine here, the second label of Ducru Beaucailloux. Sweet wood, cassis, graphite, baking spice - great complexity. Dry, fullish, balanced, classy and very flavourful. Could use another year or two, than enjoy to 2018+.
ON $57.95 |
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91
Points |
Domaine De La Vougeraie 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
Burgundy, France
Of the two Vougeraie Gevrey offerings in this release, I prefer the Evocelles for its more intensely focused fruit and rich, round, but grippy palate. There is plenty of new wood here as well, but the balance of fruit extract and solid structure more than compensate. This is a powerful wine that could use another 2-3 years in the cellar and offer pleasure from 2012-2020.
ON $63.95 |
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91
Points |
Domaine Taupenot-Merme 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin
Burgundy, France
Another modern and stylish version of Burgundy here, with wonderfully ripe berry fruit and abundant but integrated new wood influence. The palate shows plenty of extract and firm tannins that will require a couple of years to come around. This should be at its best from 2010-2020.
ON $66.95 |
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91
Points |
Alain Hudelot-Noellat 2005 Chambolle-Musigny
Burgundy, France
This will appeal to devotees of classic, elegant, old school Burgundy. It is clean, bright and delicately aromatic with fresh red berry fruit and subtle wood spice leading the way - exuding class from start to finish. The palate matches perfectly with its fine delicate tannins and feminine styling. This is textbook Chambolle, and very good for a village wine, though of course at a price.
ON $76.95 |
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90
Points |
Château Fombrauge 2005 AC St. Emillon Grand Cru
Bordeaux, France
A modern style, very stylish, open, attractive and complex wine on the nose with evident class. The palate is characterized by finely balanced components, fullish body, and ripe black fruit flavours that are backed by sufficient tannic structure to ensure at least mid-term age ability. Enjoy this 2010-2018.
ON $58.00 |
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90
Points |
Château Taillefer 2005 AC Pomerol
Bordeaux, France
Suitable for fans of more classically-styled Bordeaux, where the wood is present but well-balanced by complex earthy-spicy-floral nuances. The palate also leans towards the rustic, offering firm, resistance to otherwise ripe black fruit and spice flavours. Above average finish.
ON $59.95 |
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90
Points |
Le Vieux Donjon 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Rhône Valley, France
Clean but distinctly old world style wine here, with lots of dusty earth and savoury old wood spice and dried herbs; clearly not fully open yet. The palate is dry but full and rich, with more savoury-spicy character, solid, chewy tannins, high alcohol and a long finish. A big, powerful example that will need 2-4 years to come out of its shell and should age well to 2020+.
ON $61.95 |
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89
Points |
Château Marjosse 2005 AC Entre-Deux-Mers
Bordeaux, France
Pretty decent value here from the generic Bordeaux AC, though not surprising considering the château is owned by the ever-reliable Lurton family. Interesting black pepper and raspberry fruit aromas are matched by old wood notes; not terribly complex but intriguing. Juicy, saliva-inducing acidity and moderate-firm tannins lend structure and grip; above average length. Fine weekend wine to enjoy with friends.
ON $23.95 |
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89
Points |
Domaine De La Colline Saint-Jean 2004 Vacqueyras
Rhône Valley, France
Not showing as well as the earlier release of this same wine, which I enjoyed immensely; perhaps due to bottle variation or shipping conditions. In any case the sample presented seemed quite evolved and oxidative, with apple skin and baked fruit character. The palate still has the same richness and flavour intensity and above average persistence, so don't write this off, especially at the price.
ON $25.95 |
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89
Points |
Château Gaudin 2005 AC Pauillac
Bordeaux, France
Characterized by intriguing spicy, herbal, earthy notes off the top, overlying ripe plum and black fruit. The palate is a little burly, more like solid St. Estèphe, which will require I'd say at least 3-5 years to soften. Decant 1-2 hours ahead if you're planning to serve it now.
ON $36.95 |
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89
Points |
Domaine De La Vougeraie 2005 Gevery-Chambertin La Justice
Burgundy, France
A concentrated, deeply-coloured almost new world style Gevrey with plenty of new oak, caramel and dark fruit flavours. The palate is likewise rather fat and soft, certainly seductive and above average in concentration, though I wouldn't call this a classic. Drink 2010-2016.
ON $61.95 |
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89
Points |
Château Pontet-Canet 2005 AC Pauillac Les Hauts De Pontet Cantet
Bordeaux, France
Although the finish drops off somewhat, and the overall complexity is moderate, this is a solid second label nonetheless. The attack up front is highly flavourful offering sweet cassis and blackberry alongside attractive fragrant-floral flavours. Firm tannins need another couple of years the melt, so drink this 2010-2018.
ON $69.00 |
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88
Points |
"Domaine de Saint Ennemond, Christian et Marie Bereziat " 2006 Dame De Briante Brouilly
Burgundy, France
Very fine, classic Gamay nose of juicy black fruit & licorice. Dry, medium-bodied, light but firm, grippy tannins, juicy acid and above average depth and complexity. Average length. A nice example indeed for current enjoyment or short term cellaring.
ON $19.95 |
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88
Points |
Vignerons D'Estézargues 2006 Côtes Du Rhône Village La Granacha
Rhône Valley, France
The nose shows fairly advanced, open, lightly baked berry fruit and spice with little to no new wood evident. The palate kicks it up a notch, offering a fullish body counterbalanced by succulent and saliva inducing acidity, low tannins and generous flavour concentration. This comes across as a natural, highly gluggable (yes, that is a technical term) red that makes for enjoyable drinking with winter stews,
ON $21.95 |
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88
Points |
Château Côte Baleau 2005 AC St. Emillon
Bordeaux, France
Lacks the flashy, seductive nose of many 2005 Bordeaux, but this wine is intriguing nonetheless. Old wood spice and attractive red and black fruit flavours and bolstered by fairly chewy tannins, set on a mid-sized frame. Finishes on sweet cacao/coffee notes. Drink 2010-2018.
ON $38.95 |
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87
Points |
Château Le Clos Du Merle 2005 AC Côtes De Bourg
Bordeaux, France
A typical right-bank style Bordeaux led by the wet-clay like notes of Merlot alongside fresh red and black berry fruit and integrated (mostly old) wood spice. The palate is likewise more on the rustic side with abundant, firm chewy tannins, average concentration and length. Decant if serving now, alongside some form of fatty protein like rack of lamb.
ON $19.95 |
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87
Points |
Duvergey-Taboureau 2005 Nuits-Saint-Georges
Burgundy, France
A correct, old style Burgundy that is ultimately overpriced for the depth and complexity offered in my view. The nose is diffuse, showing slightly herbal, licorice, red and black berry fruit aromas, while the palate is firm, and tart red cherry-flavoured with merely average concentration. Serve this with duck breast coq au vin for maximum pleasure.
ON $41.95 |
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86
Points |
Château Larroque 2005 AC Bordeaux Winter Label
Bordeaux, France
Very fine, food-friendly, entry level Bordeaux that still shows the great balance of fruit and ripeness that characterizes the best 2005s. It is simple but highly inviting, offering light but grippy tannins and lively acidity on the palate. For best results give this a slight chill and serve with a classic bistro-style steak frites.
ON $16.95 |
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| France - White |
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91
Points |
Bouchard Pére & Fils 2006 Meursault 1er Cru Les Clous
Burgundy, France
Very complex, classy expression of Meursault in which brilliant minerality steals the show. Wood is very nicely integrated though overall the wine is still very youthful and undeveloped. Fine balance and full flavours ensure that this will evolve slowly but beautifully. Drink 2010-2016
ON $52.95 |
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90
Points |
Louis Sipp 2005 Pinot Gris
Alsace, France
Classic, very ripe, oily-textured Pinot Gris with the merest pinch of residual sugar to add heft and fat. Succulent acidity keeps the balance, while aromas and flavours of ripe stone fruit, and attractive fruit blossom-floral notes linger on the finish. A real beauty at a nice price for fans of traditional Alsatian PG. Drink now - 2011.
ON $19.95 |
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90
Points |
Domane Manciat-Poncet 2006 Pouilly-Fuissé
Burgundy, France
Medium straw-yellow appearance. The nose is effusive and quite complex, offering ripe citrus and stone fruit aromas, really well integrated wood and distinctive chalky-minerality. The palate is ripe and creamy, with vibrant acid and fine flavour intensity; above average length. A classic, well-made example that makes a great intro to the very fine 2006 white Burgundy vintage.
ON $33.95 |
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89
Points |
W. Gisselbrecht 2005 Riesling Schiefferberg
Alsace, France
Rather classic Alsatian Riesling here, with an open, fragrant, mineral and mature peach/nectarine/yellow plum bouquet that is starting to evolve into secondary and tertiary aromas. Essentially dry on the palate though vibrantly acidic, making this a pleasant sipper with above average concentration and length. Drink now - 2012
ON $23.95 |
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89
Points |
Domaine Du Prieure 2006 Savigny-Les-Beaune Blanc
Burgundy, France
Often a source of good value Burgundy, this example from the village of Savigny-les-Beaune is classic old school with distinctive resinous wood notes, ripe yellow apple and earth/mineral/wet stone character. The palate is dry, medium-bodied, crisply acidic balanced by rich alcohol and good flavour intensity. Above average finish. Fine entry level white Burgundy for fans of traditional styles.
ON $26.95 |
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88
Points |
René Muré 2006 Gewürztraminer
Alsace, France
Full blown, full, fat and rich style of Gewürztraminer here with a deep gold colour and evidence of botrytis on the nose: roasted fruit, lemon custard, musk melon and heavy floral - violet essence. It comes across as just off dry on the palate with modest acidity and only 12% alcohol, though I would have guessed more given the weight. Lots of flavour for the money. Drink now.
ON $16.95 |
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87
Points |
Sylvain Bailly 2007 Quincy Beaucharme
Loire Valley, France
This lesser-known Sancerre satellite AOC is an interesting source for value Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. This has fresh, simple but inviting herbal-grassy-citrus notes, though lacks the minerality more prevalent on the chalky slopes of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Brightly acidic and saliva-inducing on the palate. Good, food friendly style.
ON $21.95 |
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87
Points |
Domaine De La Mandeliére 2006 Chablis 1er Cru Mont-De- Milieu
Burgundy, France
The texture is pleasant and the acidity well-balanced with flavour and fruit extract, though I find the wine to be much more advanced than I would expect from an 06 1er Cru. It's already showing oxidative caramel apple and lemon curd flavours and lactic leesy notes. I would drink this sooner rather than later.
ON $33.95 |
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| Germany - White |
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92
Points |
Selbach-Oster 2007 Riesling Spätlese QmP Bernkasteler Badstube
Mosel, Germany
Riesling meister Johannes Selback rarely misses a beat, and this 2007, one of the greatest vintages in Germany since 1971, is certainly no exception. Wonderfully fragrant, highly floral, white blossom, wet slate/stone and apricot kernel make this textbook Mosel style, seeming to capture the essence of spring in a glass. Medium-dry, light alcohol (8%) and dazzling acidity. Infinitely, and dangerous drinkable. Drink now - 2020.
ON $28.95 |
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| Italy - Red |
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94
Points |
Fuligni 2003 Brunello Di Montalcino
Piedmont, Italy
Classy, elegant yet powerful and complex expression of Sangiovese from top producer Fuligni. Wonderfully spicy, earthy, dark fruit and floral scented - this wine has it all. The palate is dry, fullish, balanced, highly concentrated and flavourful, lingering on and on. A stunner, and very successful for this difficult, super hot vintage.
ON $75.95 |
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92
Points |
Da Vinci 2004 Chianti Reserva
Tuscany, Italy
Really fine expression of Chianti here. Deep ruby-red-garnet appearance leads into a nose of superripe but not jammy red and black fruit, spice, earth, fresh tobacco, wet wood, vanilla, baking spice - great complexity. It is also rich and balanced on the palate, presenting firm but fruit-coated tannins and a long finish. Outstanding example.
ON $35.95 |
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92
Points |
Brigaldara 2005 Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico
Veneto, Italy
Classically styled passito wine here, with intense and concentrated baked/raisined/dried fruit character: fig, dates and prunes, wood spice, chocolate-covered cherries. Full-bodied, generous and mouth filling, high alcohol, long, complex finish. This is a style to satisfy fans of big, rich complex, old world style reds. Can be enjoyed now with carafing and serving in large-bowled glassware, or cellar to the end of the next decade.
ON $50.95 |
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92
Points |
Cordero Di Montezemolo 2004 Barolo Monfalletto
Piedmont, Italy
Super nose here; classical old world styling with fragrant fresh and dried red berry fruit and floral notes. Nice class and distinction and complexity, and surprisingly approachable. The palate is dry, fullish, ripe and well balanced between sweet red fruit and refreshingly tart acid; tannins are firm but ripe as well. Long finish. Very nice indeed.
ON $51.95 |
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92
Points |
Isole E Olena 2001 Collezione De Marchi Cabernet Sauvignon IGT Toscana
Tuscany, Italy
Solidly built, distinctly old world-Tuscan style Cabernet that is evolved and ready to drink, but not headed over the hill any time soon. Wood influence is still quite prevalent as evinced by the vanilla extract character, though dark fruits and spicy-herbal components dominate; very complex overall. Tannins are still firm, so decant this an hour before serving with hard cheese or rack of wild boar.
ON $72.95 |
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90
Points |
Masi 2003 Serego Aligiheri Valpolicella Dell'Anniversario 650
Tuscany, Italy
A modern, open, fragrant ripasso style Valpolicella showing sweet fresh berry fruit, plum, spice and moderate wood. The palate is dry, medium-bodied and offers a smooth, velvety texture and plush tannins leading to a spicy-peppery finish. A fine, polished example to be enjoyed now-2014.
ON $31.95 |
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90
Points |
Cennatoio 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva
Tuscany, Italy
Intriguing mix of bright, ripe red fruit and wood spice, all nicely integrated and complex. The palate is dry, juicy, with firm but balanced tannins and fine flavour intensity/concentration. Very pleasant and drinkable style, perfect for pasta al pomodoro. Drink now-2012.
ON $31.95 |
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90
Points |
Poderi Colla 2004 Roncaglie Barbaresco
Piedmont, Italy
Still closed as is typical from Poderi Colla, who often produces somewhat backward, old style wines that age remarkably well. This has hallmark Barbaresco delicacy matched by firmness and juicy acidity. Not a blockbuster style but one based on finesse and suited to fans of traditional styles and braised meats, game and of course white truffles. Give this another 3-4 years in the cellar to reach it's potential.
ON $54.95 |
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90
Points |
Sartori 2004 Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico
Veneto, Italy
Sweet, raisined fruit character and a touch of wet earth-funk, blue fruit, fig, and marzipan, though moderate complexity overall. The palate gives a sweetish impression due to plentiful fruit extract; tannins are soft, alcohol is high (though at 14.5%, quite modest for Amarone). Average+ finish. Correct.
ON $55.95 |
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90
Points |
La Colombina 2003 Brunello Di Montalcino
Tuscany, Italy
Superripe fruit, like berries macerated in eau-de-vie and high-toned floral/violet aromas mingle with sweet chocolaty wood influence. Though full bodied and generous in alcohol, the tannins are very firm and one senses a little overenthusiastic extraction here or lack of phenolic maturity. All in all, a fine, slightly rustic but solid wine that doesn't quite reach the top shelf yet will offer pleasure from 2009-2015+.
ON $61.95 |
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89
Points |
Terra D'Aligi 2004 Tolos Montepulciano D'Abruzzo
Abruzzo, Italy
This is a very big, rich, ripe, new world style Montepulciano with abundant, even over-liberal usage of new oak yielding coffee, chocolate and caramel-toffee flavours alongside raisined fruit and a touch of funk. The palate is likewise big and chewy, with big tannins, high alcohol (14.5%), plenty of blue and black fruit and average+ finish. A winter wine if there ever was one, and you'll need big biceps to lift this heavy bottle.
ON $29.95 |
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89
Points |
Villa Cafaggio 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva
Tuscany, Italy
Solid, weighty example of Chianti dominated by sweet maple syrup, caramel and ripe/jammy fruit notes - the wood is currently prevalent but should integrate in time. The palate has similar ripe flavours but vibrant acids to balance, and a long lingering finish. Nice but not fully together; drink 2012-2018.
ON $40.95 |
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89
Points |
Ceretto 2005 Barbaresco Asij
Piedmont, Italy
Nice density and concentration on the palate, though I found the aromas and flavours to be somewhat oxidative and appley, so hard to predict where this is going. Juicy acid and firm tannins should confer decent age ability however, hopefully pulling this wine together. Provisional score.
ON $52.95 |
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88
Points |
Luce Della Vita 2005 La Vite Lucente IGT Toscana
Tuscany, Italy
Clean, fresh and accessibly fruity with light wood/sweet baking spice on the nose, though wood influence is more prevalent on the palate. Fairly soft and plush and ready to go. Obviously not in the same class as Luce's top wine, though enjoyable.
ON $39.95 |
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87
Points |
Valpantena Torre Del Falasco 2006 Valpolicella Ripasso
Veneto, Italy
An earthy, old world style, with herbal, dusty notes alongside red berry fruit. Dry, medium bodied, juicy and refreshing, highly drinkable. Serve with a slight chill.
ON $18.95 |
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87
Points |
Marchese Antinori 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva
Tuscany, Italy
Mature, fully evolved aromas - seems like a 10 year-old wine here - with wet clay, baked red & black fruit and dusty earth aromas. The palate is bone dry and intensely extracted, lending a hard edge. Flavours follow the nose with additional cedary, raisined fruit flavours. I don't suspect the tough chewy tannins will ever fully soften, so decant this and serve with rare-cooked protein.
ON $35.95 |
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86
Points |
Zenato 2006 Ripassa Valpolicella Superior
Veneto, Italy
Sweet, chocolaty cacao powder, coffee grounds and maple syrup flavours give this a distinctly modern and commercial expression. Dry but soft, offering an almost sweet impression on the palate. Average intensity and concentration. Correct.
ON $16.95 |
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86
Points |
Campomaggio 2004 Chianti Classico
Tuscany, Italy
Clean, spicy, cedary, and old oak notes with a curious mélange of vanilla essence and coffee grounds. The palate also shows curious sweet-tart character, (high acid, pinch of residual sugar?) average intensity and pronounced cedar flavours on the finish. Tannins are firm, Wood is a little too dominant for my taste.
ON $21.95 |
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86
Points |
Terre Del Barolo 2001 Barolo Monvigliero
Piedmont, Italy
Some cause for concern on the nose, showing candied, oxidized, raisined, nutty, caramelized fruit and oloroso sherry-like nuttiness. Dry, fully mature and perhaps even a bit past its prime. Could be bottle variation - sporadic oxidation, so consider this a provisional score.
ON $39.95 |
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85
Points |
Monte Zovo 2004 Ca'Linverno IGT Rosso Veronese
Veneto, Italy
Cabernet and Croatina are blended here with Corvina and Rondinella. Shows a smoky, earthy, slightly funky nose that is in stark contrast to the stylish modern label, while the palate reveals oxidative/apple skin notes and a hot, bitter finish. Drink now.
ON $21.95 |
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| Italy - Sparkling |
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88
Points |
Foss Marai 2007 Prosecco Extra Dry
Veneto, Italy
At the upper end of pricing for the majority of Prosecco, but this is a very fine, fragrant and elegant example. The nose has lovely pear and peach blossom aromas very typical for the grape, while the palate, distinctly off-dry, has a long perfumed finish and delicate texture. Definitely a step above the average.
ON $21.95 |
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| Italy - White |
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90
Points |
Anselmi 2005 Capitel Croce IGT Veneto
Veneto, Italy
Bright pale gold appearance leads in to very attractive ripe stone fruit and pretty floral-blossom aromas - nice complexity. The palate is dry, very silky-smooth-textured, with high flavour intensity and fully integrated oak. Long finish. Very nice indeed.
ON $25.95 |
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86
Points |
Cormòns 2007 Pinot Grigio DOC Isonzo Del Friuli
Friuli, Italy
Clean, slightly reductive nose, average concentration and intensity. Pleasant, dry, soft textured, round. Correct.
ON $15.95 |
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| New Zealand - Red |
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86
Points |
Oyster Bay 2007 Merlot
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Simple fruity-oaky style Merlot with commercial appeal. Soft, plush, balanced; modest complexity and length. Perfectly serviceable party wine, though don't expect it to be the life of the party.
ON $17.95 |
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| New Zealand - White |
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90
Points |
Cloudy Bay 2007 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, New Zealand
The Sauvignon that really kick-started the whole New Zealand export market in the mid-eighties still delivers exceptional quality. The 2007 is clean, fresh and nicely restrained, showing mineral and citrus-driven aromas made more interesting by light herbal-grassy notes The palate is dry, balanced and quite intensely flavoured delivering class and elegance. Very good length. Drink now.
ON $33.95 |
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| Portugal - Fortified/Dessert |
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94
Points |
Taylor Fladgate 2005 Estates Collection Vintage Port
Douro Valley, Portugal
These are two outstanding single Quinta ports from Taylor Fladgate, Vargellas and Terra Feita. Usually these two vineyards form the backbone of Taylor's Vintage Port, so this is a real treat to taste them on their own and side by side to get a sense of what each terroir adds to the mix. I found both to be excellent, the Terra Feita characterized by spicy, earthy, mineral-wet-clay scented, while the Vargellas shows intense black fruit and lovely violet perfume. Also a fantastic gift option. The score is a combined evaluation of overall quality.
ON $82.95 |
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92
Points |
Quinta Do Vale D. Maria 2002 Vintage Port
Douro Valley, Portugal
Intense, raisined, pure currant leaf and black currant fruit on the nose, just barely showing a hint of the typical floral, Douro 'schist' character of top port. The palate is rich and very densely packed. Huge, chewy tannins coat the palate and smother everything. It's very tough to assess this young, monstrous wine, but I wager than in a decade or two, once the tannic cloak has been shed, fruit, earth and spicy-floral complexity will make this a highly compelling Porto.
ON $64.95 |
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| Portugal - Red |
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90
Points |
Quinta Da Alorna 2005 Touriga Nacional Reserva
Ribatejo, Portugal
Clean, open, violently fruity, modern style wine with loads of superripe black fruit and abundant new wood influence. Dry, full, succulent and concentrated, with black fruit and violet flavours dominant. I would like to see this wine again in about 3-5 years after the wood settles and it gains in complexity.
ON $40.95 |
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| South Africa - Red |
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89
Points |
Anwilka 2006 Ugaba
Stellenbosch, South Africa
A Syrah blend with Cabernet and Merlot; the second wine of Anwilka, a joint venture of Klein Constantia and Cos d'Estournel. Rich, intense, very ripe black fruit and sweet new wood, dark chocolate and vanilla bean - clean and unmistakably modern new world red. Dry, medium-full bodied, with surprising acidity and freshness on the palate given the intense ripe fruit on the nose, with fine elegance and class. This is a nice value here from South Africa that should age well to the middle of next decade.
ON $26.95 |
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86
Points |
Boekenhoutskloof 2007 Porcupine Ridge Syrah/Viognier
Western Cape, South Africa
Open, high-toned, acetone-tinged red fruit nose, with distinctive South African rubber/smoke/vanilla extract character. A touch off-dry given the immediate impression of sweet fruit; tannins are so soft as to go more or less unnoticed. Serve slightly chilled to play up the fruit.
ON $19.95 |
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| South Africa - White |
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86
Points |
Mulderbosch 2007 Sauvignon Blanc
WO Western Cape, South Africa
This falls on the side of intensely pyrazine-dominated Sauvignons that show bell pepper, pungently herbal-grassy and canned jalapeño aromas and flavours. The palate is bone dry with sour/high acid and light lemon-grapefruit finish. I prefer to see a little more fruit and balance, but this is correct within the style and will certainly have its followers.
ON $18.95 |
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| Spain - Red |
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94
Points |
Alion 2004 Ribera del Duro
Ribera del Duero, Spain
Simply a stunner here; this is serious wine. Intense, dense, brooding and concentrated, layers of complexity wash across the palate. It is full bodied, succulent and supremely well balanced, though still solid and densely packed with tannins. Long finish. Brilliant. Give this a another 2-4 years in the cellar and then enjoy for a couple of decades more.
ON $80.95 |
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92
Points |
Senorio de P. Peciña 1998 Rioja Gran Reserva
Rioja, Spain
Lovely, classic old style Rioja showing plenty of American oak character (toasted coconut) from its long sojourn in barrel, alongside dried red berry/raspberry/strawberry, savoury herbs, dusty earth and dried mushroom notes - fine complexity. The palate is all about the silky, delicate, feminine texture, fine dusty tannins and cleansing acidity. This is fully mature yet still balanced between fruit and evolved character. Perfectly integrated, long finish. Delightful old style.
Tasted By: Anthony Gismondi
ON $56 |
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91
Points |
Descendientes De J. Palacios 2006 Bierzo Pétalos
Bierzo, Spain
Delicious value wine from the Mencía variety, which is capturing much international attention these days. Palacios' entry level version is highly inviting with lovely violet, blueberry and bramble berry fruit character, licorice and integrated wood spice-vanilla. Dry, medium bodied, juicy, soft and supple textured with moderate, plush tannins. Highly enjoyable and drinkable at a reasonable price. Drink now-2014
ON $25.95 |
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89
Points |
Juan Gil 2006 Do Jumilla Monastrell
Jumilla, Spain
Big, bold, ripe, ultra ripe black fruit, spice, wet earth and a slight reductive, animal character. Dry with sweet impression from the full body and generous alcohol (14.5%), while big chewy tannins are nicely coated with fruit extract. Very solid value wine.
ON $16.95 |
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89
Points |
Bodegas San Pedro 2005 Rioja Vallobera Crianza
Rioja, Spain
Not a blockbuster style, but very pleasant and nicely balanced between fruit, earth and wood. Spicy, peppery, vibrant red and black fruit aromas with a hint of earth dominate on the nose, while moderate tannins sit on a medium-bodied frame and lead into a long finish. Nice value here.
ON $19.95 |
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88
Points |
Montecastro Y Llanahermosa 2005 Do Ribera Del Duero
Ribera del Duero, Spain
This very modern and commercially-minded wine is full of jammy fruit and overly abundant wood (American oak), sawdust, caramel, chocolate and melted butter. The palate offers a sweet impression and fairly burly tannins, which could use a few years to soften. Ultimately, not terribly well balanced and over-oaked, though built to impress and may improve.
ON $43.95 |
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| United States - Red |
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92
Points |
Joseph Phelps 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, United States
Intense, concentrated and complex, this wine strikes immediately with distinctive, herbal, spicy, earthy notes of excellent complexity - a serious wine indeed that avoids the common trap of one-dimensional jammy fruit. Dry, fullish, rich and densely layered fruit/oak/spice/dried herb flavours on the palate as well, with abundant ripe, plush tannins, balanced acidity and alcohol and a very long finish. Classic, high quality Napa Cab here that can be enjoyed now, but will surely continue to improve over the next 2-4 years and then hold to 2015.
ON $73.95 |
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91
Points |
Mount Veeder 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, United States
Immediately compelling, classy and complex off the bat, there is plenty of interesting, earthy, tar, savoury-herbal and wood spice notes to add complexity to ripe, dark fruit. This is a big, solid mouthful of wine with ripe but chewy tannins and sufficient acidity to balance the alcoholic richness. High flavour intensity and long finish. Certainly one of the more interesting values from California in this release. Drink 2010-2018.
ON $49.95 |
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91
Points |
Beringer 1996 Howell Mountain Bancroft Ranch Merlot
Napa Valley, United States
Very mature and at peak, this 1996 Merlot shows plenty of decaying leaves, wet earth, hummus and baked black berry fruit character alongside a touch of herbal-mintyness. Dry, soft round on the palate with a silky texture; surprisingly firm tannins still linger though are coated with high alcohol. A fine, mature wine that is ready to drink if you are willing to shell out.
ON $98.95 |
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90
Points |
Duckhorn 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, United States
Clean, polished, seductive nose with notable raisined fruit character - comes across as a late harvest example - with plenty of expensive new wood and decent complexity. Dry, fullish, very smooth texture and ripe, rounded tannins on the palate, lending a faintly sweet impression with the high alcohol-low acid combination. Concentration is quite high. This is a well-measured Napa Cab clearly designed to impress right up front, though should hold short-mid-term in the cellar.
ON $78.95 |
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88
Points |
Clos Pegase 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, United States
Already showing quite a lot of evolution and tertiary character, sweet oak spice and slightly dried/raisined/nutty fruit. It's hard to imagine this will gain anything through additional ageing. The palate, too, is ripe, fat, sweet, almost port-like with its fruit-in-eau-de-vie and chocolate flavours, and fully pliable. Average+, warm finish. Not much finesse, but this will have its supporters.
ON $48.00 |
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87
Points |
Van Ruiten 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel
Lodi, United States
Jam, oak and alcohol off the nose, with fairly typical blueberry, black raspberry confiture and sweet vanilla extract. Dry, though with a sweet impression from superripe fruit flavours, high alcohol and moderate-low acidity. Big, generous and mouth filling, moderate length and chest-warming, designed for winter evenings.
ON $18.95 |
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87
Points |
Francis Coppola 2006 Diamond Collection Silver Label Pinot Noir
Monterey County, United States
Clean, new world style reductive wine with jammy raspberry aromas sweetened further by the addition of chocolaty oak. Dry, medium bodied and nicely balanced on the palate, if a bit hot from generous alcohol, with a soft plush texture. Driven initially by fruit then finishing on sweet oak notes. Drink now-2012.
ON $28.00 |
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| United States - White |
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89
Points |
Rodney Strong 2006 Chalk Hill Chardonnay
Sonoma County, United States
Clean, moderate intensity aromas of toasty, polished oak, ripe stone fruit and baking spice make this inviting and attractive. The palate is dry, medium bodied, with succulent creamy oak and zesty stone fruit leading to an above average finish. A classic Sonoma style Chardonnay.
ON $24.95 |
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88
Points |
Simi 2006 Chardonnay
Sonoma County, United States
A textbook, well-measured style of Chardonnay with open, forward ripe stone fruit aromas with tropical nuances, pineapple, starfruit and moderate oak influence. The palate is dry, round, soft with ripe fruit flavours and generous alcohol (13.5%). Moderate + finish.
ON $23.95 |
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