October 25, 2008

Issue: Oct 17 2008

In This Issue

October 25, 2008

In This Issue: Ripasso & Amarone & Party Wines

Steve Thurlow Returns
I am pleased to announce the return of long-time Wine Access Contributing Editor, Steve Thurlow, to the FIL reviewing team. Steve has contributed to FIL in the past and continues to work closely with Wine Access as part of the national tasting panel. Steve will be reviewing wines from time to time for FIL, that is, when he is not off conducting tours to some of the most beautiful wine regions in the world or teaching courses on wines. For anyone interested in expanding their wine knowledge, Steve offers Global Wine Tour wine courses, exploring the world of wine one country at a time. A list of upcoming courses in downtown Toronto is available in the Upcoming events section of the report.

Ripasso & Amarone
This week's LCBO-Vintages release highlights the red wines from the Valpolicella DOC situated in the Veneto in the northeast corner of Italy. The vineyards here, covering the foothills to the north of the charming town of Verona where Italy's largest wine fair, Vinitaly, is held every year, produce a wide range of red wines from light, simple and quaffable, to serious, full-bodied and age-worthy. All of these wines are blends, of which the 3 main grape varieties are: Corvina, Rondinela and Molinara. Corvina makes up the majority of quality wines, Rondinella usually in lesser proportions, and Molinara, considered the least interesting of the three is slowly being phased out. Other grapes are permitted in small percentages, including international grapes like Cabernet and Merlot as well as other Italian but non-local varieties like Sangiovese. So with all of these possibilities you can imagine how far ranging the wines styles are. But then add to that the unique and varied wine production methods employed in Valpolicella, and the scene becomes even more fascinating.

The powerful maritime Republic of Venice (capital of the Veneto region) dominated trade in the Mediterranean and Aegean seas for centuries during the middle ages and early Renaissance. In addition to being a staging ground for the Crusades, the city became a flourishing trade center between Western Europe and the Byzantine Empire. At the height of its power in the late thirteenth century, Venice was the richest city in all of Europe, and "Venice's leading families vied with each other to build the grandest palaces and support the work of the greatest and most talented artists". Merchants of all kinds brought back untold riches to Venice, and many of these treasures are still on display in the city. In fact, the doges of Venice levied a tax on all merchants using the port of Venice, requiring each returning ship to offer a token of appreciation to the city's rulers, in addition to monetary taxes. The main items of trade were silk, grains and spices, though wine, brought mostly from Greece, was also an important commodity.

This last tidbit is the one of greatest interest to us here, because Venetian merchants brought back not only wine to Italy, but also the Greek "technology" for making it. When the Ottoman Empire (and its religious disdain for alcoholic beverages) expanded into Greece, the main source of wine for trade more or less vanished. By then, however, citizens of the Italian peninsula had developed a taste for the full-bodied, mostly sweet wines of Greece made from partially sun-dried grapes. This is one of the oldest ways of making wines stable enough to survive long sea voyages.

Left without a supply of wines for the demanding market, Venetian merchants turned to the vineyards inland from their wealthy city to produce the wines that the market desired. The technique of drying grapes to concentrate wine is called appassimento in Italian, and the resulting wine, vino passito. One of the more famous Greek versions of this style of wine, widely exported to Venice and Western Europe during times of trade, was the wine from the Island of Santorini. This Vino di Santorini proved very popular and became known simply as vissanto or vinsanto. The Italian version of Vinsanto, produced from partially raisined grapes throughout the country but most famously in Tuscany, owes it origins and name to the wine of Santorini, and not, as many Italians will insist, to its use for holy (santo) occasions. At least that is one of the more likely stories.

Passito style wines are still widely produced in Italy today, but perhaps, aside from Vinsanto, nowhere more famously than in the Veneto and particularly in the "valley of many cellars" the Valpolicella denomination. (The classico denomination refers to wines produced in the original heartland of the area centered on the foothills, whereas non-classico wines can be produced anywhere in the large DOC including less interesting flatlands by the Po river; superiore refers to wines with an extra measure of ripeness at harvest and thus slightly higher alcohol.)

Here, from the same vineyards and same grape varieties, producers can make a huge range of wines. The harvest begins with the collection of regularly ripened grapes, from which straight up, fresh and fruity Valpolicella is produced. A portion of the harvested grapes are then set out to dry partially, losing about 30-40% of their water content over a period of several months. Traditionally the drying was done in barns up in the cool, breezy hills, though today temperature and humidity-controlled, purpose-built drying rooms are increasingly employed.

The concentrated grapes are then vinified into full bodied red wine. Depending on how concentrated the grapes are, the resulting wine may be anywhere from dry to sweet. These latter dessert-style wines are referred to as Reciotto della Valpolicella (Classico, Superiore), the name being derived from the prized part of the grape bunch traditionally used to make them, the recie, or ears of the bunch (the lobes on either side). If the grapes are not as concentrated, or if the yeast run wild and accidentally convert all of the sugar into alcohol, you end up with a dry, full-bodied, high alcohol, powerful wine with a raisined but slightly bitter taste. These wines, formerly known as Reciotto della Valpolicella Amarone, ("the big, bitter (dry) reciotto of Valpolicella" from the Italian word for bitter, amaro), are now simply known as Amarone della Valpolicella.

The thrifty and frugal Venetians, realizing after separating and pressing the skins during Amarone production that there was yet still a little more money to be squeezed out, took to reusing the pomace to give their simple fruity Valpolicella a little flavour boost. They "passed back" the pomace into the basic wine, thereby inducing another minor fermentation, using up the remaining sugars and adding additional flavour, body and alcohol in the process. Valpolicella "Ripasso" was born. Clever indeed. Until recently, however, there were no regulations concerning the production of ripasso (one producer, Masi, even managed to trademark the term until it was forced to relinquish its use to all the producers of Valpolicella). Today, the only regulation in place is that you can only produce twice as much ripasso as amarone in a given vintage. Thus if you declare 100 liters of Amarone, you can legally produce up to 200 liters of ripasso. So, some are made in the traditional way while others can be made from very lightly raisined fruit or even by adding some Amarone directly into your Valpolicella. There is no way of telling from the label, so go by what you like.

So that's my brief history of the fascinating wines of Valpolicella and the clever producers who make them. Just imagine, from the same plot of land, same vintage and same grapes, no fewer than 4 wine styles can be made: light and fruity Valpolicella, slightly more full-bodied Valpolicella Ripasso, full-bodied, rich but dry Amarone, and sweet, dessert style Reciotto! But of course the Venetians aren't finished there. Recognizing that there was still more money to be squeezed out of those grapes, they took to adding water and some sugar to the leftovers of the leftovers, fermenting the mixture and then distilling it into a fiery clear spirit called grappa. Throw it into a hand-blown glass bottle from the nearby Island of Murano and charge $100+ a bottle for it, and you are feeling pretty clever indeed!

You'll find a range of Valpolicella wines to choose from in this release, from the near sublime to sub-standard. I expect a good Amarone to have a rich, full body with plenty of raisined fruit extract and not too much volatile acidity, the smell of nail polish remover or acetone that can often accompany passito wines if not controlled properly. The use of wood varies widely, but as usual I am looking for a balance of fruit, wood and spice rather than a dominance of any one element. Ripasso in my opinion should have some of that raisined character, yet still be pleasantly drinkable without excessive tannins. My top 6, those scoring 89 or above, are listed for your reference.

The other theme of the release, party wines, is pretty straightforward and self-explanatory. Usually a host is looking for wines with mass appeal, that is, safe, pleasantly fruity wines in which nothing sticks out, at a reasonable price. Very distinctive wines can be more risky to serve, as the stronger the personality, the more clearly the dividing line between like and dislike is drawn. Unless of course you have a room full of die-hard aficionados on the look-out for something different and unique. The top ten smart buys lays out the value part of the equation, but for stylistic considerations, refer to the tasting notes.

Coming Up:
November 8th Vintages release focusing on Bordeaux and Premium Spirits.

Events:
The usual listing of wine events happening in Ontario is included at the end of the report.

Blog Spot: check for new postings at: www.wineaccess.ca/blog/jszabo.

Cheers,

John Szabo, MS.

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Top 10 Smart Buys

	10	Casa Silva 2006 Reserva Carmenère **_ Colchagua Valley, Chile	ON $15
	9	KWV 2005 Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay*** Western Cape, South Africa	ON $15
	8	Lurton 2006 Reserva Malbec *** Mendoza, Argentina	ON $14
	7	Salustri 2005 Santa Marta Single Vineyard Montecucco Sangiovese *** Tuscany, Italy	ON $41
	6	Nino Negri 2004 Sasselle 'Le Tense' Valtellina Superiore *** Lombardia, Italy	ON $25
	5	Haras de Pirque 2004 Character Cabernet Sauvignon*** Maipo Valley, Chile	ON $20
	4	Cathedral Cellar 2006 Triptych*** Coastal Region, South Africa	ON $17
	3	Wynns 2005 Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon**_ Coonawarra, Australia	ON $25
	2	Ruffino 2004 Serelle Vin Santo Del Chianti *** Tuscany, Itay	ON $20
	1	Gonzalez Byass N/V Del Duque Amontillado *** Spain	ON $34

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89 Points Coyote's Run 2006 Riesling Icewine** Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada Straightforward tropical fruit flavours such as tangerine, mango and pears in syrup dominate the flavour profile. There is sufficient acidity to keep things lively and balanced. Enjoy this over the next 3-5 years to capture the youthful fruit. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 12658 ON $55	88 Points Wolf Blass 2004 Gold Label Pinot Noir/Chardonnay**1/2 South Australia This is a pleasant, pretty and dry but fruity sparkler with cherry stone, peach, almond blossom and light citrus flavours. It's nicely balanced and fresh, ideal for apéritif sipping. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 606285 ON $21
88 Points Château des Charmes 2006 Vidal Icewine** Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada A decent value here from perennial top performers Château des Charmes. The requisite peach and apricot flavours linger well, and sugar levels remain moderate, making this a fresher and lighter alternative to typical icewines. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 565861 ON $26
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Argentina - Red
89 Points Lurton 2006 Reserva Malbec *** Mendoza, Argentina Excellent value once again from Lurton Argentina. Expect a nose of blueberry and chocolate with floral and tobacco notes plus well integrated oak spice. Well balanced with juicy fruit in an easy drinking style. Well made with much complexity for the price. Very good length. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 903153 ON $14	89 Points Finca el Origen 2006 Gran Reserva Malbec** Valle de Uco, Argentina A big heavy bottle (unnecessarily adding to this winery’s ecological footprint) does contain some pretty nice wine. The nose is a little tight for now with youthful blackberry/ blueberry fruit plus noticeable oak spice, vanilla with some earthy notes. The palate is well balanced with ripe unresolved tannin and sufficient acidity to support some short term bottle aging. The finish is fairly dry with the tannins poking through. It needs a little more time to show its stuff. Best 2009 to 2016. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 65425 ON $25
88 Points Prodigo 2005 Malbec**_ Mendoza, Argentina Good Argentina Malbec with a pretty nose of lifted blueberry/blackberry fruit plus vanilla and violet floral notes mixed in with the oak spice. Midweight it has a fine tannin structure and some lively acidity to keep it fresh and help it marry with food. Very good focus and length. Try a steak or lamb chop. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 77867 ON $16	87 Points Michel Torino 2006 Ciclos Malbec/Merlot** Cafayate, Argentina Deeply coloured purple red with a slender tight nose of prune cassis fruit with leathery earthy tones. Juicy full bodied palate well balanced with plum fruit and fine tannin. Good to very good length with the fruit soon replaced by dry tannin. Best 2008 - 2012. Try with roast meats. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 37895 ON $19
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Australia - Red
91 Points Amadio 2005 Block 2A Reserve Shiraz** Adelaide Hills, Australia An elegant pure well made shiraz from the cooler Adelaide Hills. The nose shows clean well defined blackberry cassis fruit aromas intermingled with dark chocolate and subtle oak spice. The palate is surprisingly juicy with lots of finesse though very flavourful and well balanced. There are finely divided tannins like cocoa powder mixed in with the supple fruit. Very good length. If drinking now decant an hour ahead but I suggest waiting a year or two. Best 2009 to 2016. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 72843 ON $40	91 Points Wynns 2005 Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon**_ Coonawarra, Australia This has been a favourite of mine now for several vintages. The 2005 is yet again very correct, elegant and somewhat understated for Australia. The nose is perfumed blueberry pie with marzipan, vanilla and cassis with some forest floor accents and a touch of leather for complexity. The palate is very even with some finely divided tannin under the fruit. Flavours follow the nose but it is dry yet well balanced by some lively acidity. Very good to excellent length. Great now with roast beef it will gain in complexity over the next few years . Best 2009 2016. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 84996 ON $25
89 Points Wakefield 2006 Shiraz**_ Clare Valley, Australia Great value here in juicy well made shiraz. Expect aromas of cassis, blueberry with forest floor accents and some soft leather notes. There are a few layers of flavour with ripe finely divided tannins and lively acidity mingling amongst the fruit. It maintains fruit focus well with very good length. Best 2008 – 2012. Enjoy with a steak or lamb cutlet or maybe duck breast with a blackcurrant coulis. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 943787 ON $19	89 Points Wolf Blass 2005 Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc Adelaide Hills, Australia A ripe Bordeaux blend from the cooler Adelaide Hills area. Fairly classy but lacking some complexity to score higher. The nose is perfumed blackberry prune fruit with vanilla and not yet completely integrated oak. Well balanced with lots if fruit lying on top of finely divided tannin. It finishes quite dry. Good to very good length. Fine now if decanted, I would be tempted to wait a couple of years. Best 2010 2016. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 590265 ON $32
88 Points Wynns 2006 Coonawarra Estate Shiraz** Coonawarra, Australia This wine is opaque with dark purple red fruit reflecting the light. Expect aromas of blackberry, dark chocolate, leather, cassis and oak spice. A pretty wine, well extracted and balanced but there not much complexity on the palate and the finish is shorter than expected, however the length is good and it is very flavourful. Best 2008 to 2011. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 433060 ON $21
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Australia - White
88 Points Lillypilly 2006 Noble Blend* Riverina, Australia The nose here is very appealing with herbal and floral notes mixed with baked orange and apricot fruit. It is midweight and fairly sweet with some good acid to keep it from cloying however the finish is shorter than expected. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 15255 ON $25
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Canada - Red
88 Points Mike Weir Estate 2005 Cabernet/Shiraz** Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada Attractive, moderate intensity red and black fruit, with some nuances of dried/baked berries and evident wood spice. The palate is dry with firm tannins and juicy acid, while above average intensity spicy flavours linger on nicely. A nice effort. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 81638 ON $25
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Canada - White
88 Points Flat Rock Cellars 2006 Chardonnay** Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada Another great 2006 white from Flat Rock here. This party wine candidate is clean and fresh, with creamy integrated wood, citrus fruit and mineral - nice class. Dry, bright, crispy acidity gives this a lively texture. Average finish, but at this price I am not complaining. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 681247 ON $17
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Chile - Red
90 Points Haras de Pirque 2004 Character Cabernet Sauvignon*** Maipo Valley, Chile A delightful new world styled cabernet from Chile that is loaded with aromas and flavours of jammy fruit, cassis and blackberry, perfumed but undertoned with leather and mineral. The palate is firm and full bodied but is still a little chunky. It is well balanced but needs some more time to come together. The finish is very long yet quite dry. Best 2010 to 2016. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 54502 ON $20	88 Points Santa Carolina 2006 Barrica Selection Gran Reserva Carmenére *** Rapel Valley, Chile Deep purple colour. Rich and expressive nose of ripe red and black fruit and attractive floral touches, with characteristically Carmenère herbal nuances. The palate is dry, full, lush, with soft tannins, well-measured wood influence and sufficient acidity to keep one's attention and invite return sips. Nice value. Drink now-2012. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 640888 ON $15
88 Points Casa Silva 2006 Reserva Carmenère **_ Colchagua Valley, Chile Though this is a fine wine, I am not convinced that it is the crowd pleasing stuff that the catalogue promises, since there are heavy vegetal aromas and flavours. The nose is big with cassis, prune and licorice matched with earthy forest aromas and some coal dust notes. The palate shows rich ripe fruit balanced by firm acid and fine tannin. It goes quite dry on the finish so will benefit from some bottle aging. Best 2010 to 2015. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 24679 ON $15	86 Points Santa Carolina 2006 Amplus Cabernet Sauvignon** Rapel Valley, Chile A fairly ordinary Carmenère from Chile, though good value with the blackberry fruit aromas dominated by herbal vegetal tones. Midweight and correct but with little of the complexity that its grand title might suggest. The length is good but it turns a touch bitter right at the end. Needs food, maybe a beef stew. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 640888 ON $15
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France - Red
92 Points Château la Nerthe 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape **1/2 Rhône, France Not surprisingly, this big, solid wine is a little closed at the moment, though with some coaxing opens to reveal lavender, Provençal herbs and wood-vanilla influence. It is the palate that really foretells its quality, offering a round, full succulent texture and fine structure that is fully enrobed in sweet fruit extract. Long finish. This should be best from about 2010-2020. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 735407 ON $60	90 Points Château Brillette 2003 AC Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois Superieur** Bordeaux, France This is a nice choice for more evolved Bordeaux that is starting to drink well now. It has classic left bank character with its pencil lead and cassis aromas tied in to earthy-savoury (wood spice) and dark chocolate notes. On the palate it's fullish with moderately-firm tannins that are beginning to melt; flavour intensity is above average. This is showing nicely now, but decant ahead and serve with rack of lamb. Should hold in the caller to the middle of the net decade as well. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 86652 ON $43
88 Points Château Preuillac 2005 AC Medoc, Cru Bourgeois** Bordeaux, France A decent, if not top class '05 Bordeaux with a distinctly modern styling. Milk chocolate, oak and black fruit dominate the nose; dry, medium-full body, firm, high tannins need time to integrate. This is clearly 3-5 years away from peak drinking, and should provide pleasure through to 2018. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 713925 ON $30	87 Points Domaine de Graves d'Ardonneau 2005 Cuvée Prestige AC Premières Côtes de Blaye** Bordeaux, France An intriguingly rustic, Merlot-based right bank Bordeaux with sweet-herbal/savoury notes alongside stewed peppers and melted butter. The palate reveals appealing fruit intensity and sweet Christmas cake-like flavours, and moderate intensity and finish. Drink 2010-2015 Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 87692 ON $25
87 Points Domaine Cauvard 2005 Beaune 1er Cru Cent Vignes * Burgundy, France Here is an example of a perfectly serviceable, even pleasant Pinot Noir with light red fruit and floral tones, dry, soft, light tannins and fresh acid that is totally correct, just rather overpriced in my view relatively to what is available in the world of wine. At $20, this would be a delicious value. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 84624 ON $44	86 Points Domaine Bernard Baudry 2006 Chinon* Loire, France This is a classically styled Loire valley cabernet Franc, with slightly earthy, fresh manure, wood spice, star anise and red berry fruit character. The palate is typically dry and moderately tannic, though tart acid lends a hard edge to this. Not a sipping wine, this would show best with a magret of duck in a tart red currant sauce. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 940783 ON $20
86 Points Colin-Bourisset 2006 Côte de Brouilly Les Terres Bleues ** Beaujolais, France Juicy, fresh and lively Gamay with loads of berry fruit and delicate cinnamon spice. The palate is light and tart, with low tannins. This doesn't have the structure of top cru Beaujolais, but would be pleasant with slightly chilled with a plate of charcuterie. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 590521 ON $18	85 Points Chapelle Lenclos 2003 Madiran* Southwest France Generally a very solid and reliable producer, the 2003 Madiran from Patrick Ducornau has a very baked/maderized character that is more typical of average quality southern Italian reds. The over ripeness continues on the palate with almost port like flavours, while tannins remain firm and unyielding. hard to predict whether this will really improve over time in the cellar. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 76356 ON $26
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France - Sparkling
87 Points Louis Bouillot N/V N/V Perle d'Ivoire Blanc de Blancs Brut ** Crémant de Bourgogne, France Light apple, pear and fresh brioche on the nose; dry, lively mousse, fine flavour follow through to a citrus apple finish. There is a not a significant amount of autolysis character, but this is nonetheless a solid, well-made sparkler for immediate pleasure. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 48801 ON $20
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France - White
90 Points Isabell et Denis Pommier 2006 Chablis Côte de Léchet** Burgundy, France Beautiful elegant Chablis. The nose is very clean with apple, white peach and citrus fruit intermingled with mineral tones. It is creamy smooth, midweight with the fruit buoyed along with mineral fresh lemony acidity. Excellent length. Mid palate the fruit is ripe but it is drier and more mineral on the finish so best with mild cheese or delicately flavoured seafood. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 23747 ON $38	89 Points Fernand Engel 2005 Reserve Gewürtztraminer** Alsace, France A beautiful gewurz with a very appealing nose of floral orange, peach, and baked pear fruit with some nutty complexity. The palate is rich and a little sweet, almost off dry, with ripe fruit flavours, yet it is focused and balanced by some zippy acid. Very good length. Try with mildly spicy Asian cuisine. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 80481 ON $23
89 Points Leon Beyer 2005 Les Ecaillers Riesling ** Alsace, France Typical Alsatian Riesling yet richer due to the warm vintage. The nose shows some complex fruit aromas of apple with white peach and white cherry, plus nutty, mineral notes and some paraffin. The palate is even with good extraction and good balance. Good to very good length. Try with sautéed fish. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 955401 ON $30	88 Points Michel Delorme 2006 Pouilly-Fuissé Sur La Roche ** Burgundy, France A medium-gold colour foretells a riper, more Old World style of Chardonnay, and indeed this shows a slightly late-harvested character (a hint of volatile acidity), apple, pear, light mineral and low oak notes. The palate is dry, fullish and round, with a creamy texture and more mature flavours such as crème caramel. Don't expect freshness but rather oxidative, old world styling. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 87460 ON $30
87 Points Manciat-Poncet 2006 Macon-Charnay* Burgundy, France Straightforward well made chardonnay with apple mineral citrus aromas and flavours with some nutty notes. Midweight and easy drinking with good balance and a medium finish. Try with seafood. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 87478 ON $22	86 Points Château de Meursault 2005 Meursault* Burgundy, France Very disappointing and nothing like what is described in the catalogue. The nose is very slender and clean with mineral, apple, melon aromas and a touch of oak. Midweight with fresh acidity and dilute apple pear fruit. Good length but none of the stuffing one would expect from this property at this price. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 520213 ON $57
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Germany - White
90 Points Schloss Schönborn 1991 Riesling Spätlese** Rheingau, Germany A great example of mature Riesling that still has years of life left. Golden coloured, the nose is not at all tired with clean baked apricot and stewed apple fruit enhanced by some petrol notes common in aged Riesling and straw and honey complexity. The palate is off-dry rich and complex with little sign age. It finishes dry with excellent length. Best 2008 to 2014. Try with roast poultry or roast pork with apple raisin stuffing. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 81703 ON $30	88 Points Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler 2006 Riesling Spätlese* Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany An off-dry Riesling that would be better with more of that racy acidity we expect from the Mosel. The nose shows floral notes with peach and hay and some obvious sulphur. The palate is rich and quite sweet flavourful but a little flabby. Finish is clean with good fruit persistence. Medium length. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 71142 ON $33
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Hungary - White
85 Points Tokaj Kereskedohaz 2001 Tokaji Aszu 4 Puttonyos Tokay, Hungary Not a great example of Tokay with a tired nose of herbal, citrus, baked fruit plus some lactic notes. Midweight and a little flabby and fairly short on the finish. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 73239 ON $27
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Italy - Fortified/Dessert
92 Points Ruffino 2004 Serelle Vin Santo Del Chianti *** Tuscany, Itay A splendidly complex, raisined expression of Vinsanto with dried fruit and toffee notes. The palate is weet but not cloying, with a balancing pleasant bitter character on the long, honey and treacly-flavoured finish. Top notch, and a super value. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 1008 ON $20
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Italy - Red
93 Points Frescobaldi 2005 Luce Della Vita ** Tuscany, Italy True to form and price tag, Frescobaldi's iconic blend of Sangiovese and Merlot is a serious red bursting with concentrated black fruit and high-quality new wood/dark chocolate/coffee aromas of impressive complexity. The palate is dry, full and seriously intense, with masses of ripe tannin and fruit extract framed up by lively acidity. This is a real blockbuster in the modern super-Tuscan style and a great success for the vintage. It should be best from 20012-2020. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 685263 ON $100	92 Points Salustri 2005 Santa Marta Single Vineyard Montecucco Sangiovese *** Tuscany, Italy My excitement mounted as I tasted this relatively unknown Tuscan red, enjoying its open and complex, partially evolved, high-toned floral, sweet red fruit and licorice aromas. The palate is equally compelling: fullish, firm, abundant but ripe tannins, juicy-balanced acidity and long flavourful finish. A terrific wine, like very good Brunello in fact, but then again priced as such. Montecucco is a new DOC just across the valley from Montalcino that used to supply grapes to Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, so no surprise. If you are not into label shopping, this is well worth a look. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 74302 ON $41
91 Points Ornellaia 2006 Le Serre Nuove Dell'Ornellaia ** Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy The second wine of Tenuta dell'Ornellaia shares mush of the same modern, polished styling of the top wine, showing abundant but integrated oak, loads of spice and superripe black fruit. The palate is surprisingly firm, with very youthful/grippy tannins balanced by fruit extract and bright acidity, ensuring at least mid-term cellaring potential. Excellent length. Best 2012-2020. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 606194 ON $60	91 Points Nino Negri 2004 Sfursat Della Valtellina **_ Lombardia, Italy Sfursat expert Nino Negri (passito style Nebbiolo) has made a delightful 2004. It is quite closed and tightly wound at the moment, but shows great promise with a complex amalgam of fragrant red fruits, both fresh and dried, characteristic licorice, dried violet and pumpkin seeds. the palate is dry and full-bodied, with loads of fruit extract and fine balance despite abundant acidity, alcohol and tannins. this is a really solid wine that needs another 5+ years in the cellar and should drink well to 2025. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 84848 ON $35
91 Points Tommasi 2004 Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico ** Veneto, Italy Tommasi strikes a fine balance here between modern and rustic styling, with herbal nuances matching earthy and raisined fruit character in a classically recognizable expression. The palate is dry, fullish, succulent, with loads of fruit extract and tannins that are fully enveloped in generous alcohol (15%) and raisined fruit flavour. This well-balanced wine should age slowly and gracefully through to 2025, with plenty of pleasurable stops along the way. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 356220 ON $53	91 Points Bertani 2004 Amarone Della Valpolicella Valpantena ** Veneto, Italy Bertani makes a classic old world style wine with intense dark chocolate, raisins and dried figs that is unmistakably Amarone. The richness and complexity continue on the palate, carried on a big but not massive or over-extracted frame, light-medium tannins and balanced acidity. The finish veers more into the beef broth, spent coffee grounds and chocolate spectrum. A léger 14.5% is a bonus as well, in my mind. Drink now-2020. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 13417 ON $57
90 Points Stefano Accordini 2005 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Acinatico Ripasso **_ Veneto, Italy A fine, old world style ripasso with distinctive dark fruit and Christmas cake-raisined fruit character to which a touch of fresh wet earth adds interest and complexity. The palate reveals considerable concentration of dried fruit flavour alongside ripe, plush tannins and a pleasantly glycerous texture. This has the stuffing to improve with age through the mid-term, though is already developed enough to begin offering enjoyment now. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 85159 ON $29	90 Points Nino Negri 2004 Sasselle 'Le Tense' Valtellina Superiore *** Lombardia, Italy Super value Nebbiolo here from Negri. The nose is delicate and ethereal as fine Valtellina should be, with typical aromas of faded roses, red and black licorice, dried cherry and cranberry. The palate is dry, medium-bodied, with firm-silky tannins and bright acidity, leading in to a long perfumed finish. If you are a fan of Barolo/Barbaresco, this could be your ""everyday"" Nebbiolo. Drink now- 2014. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 699629 ON $25
90 Points Travaglini 2003 Gattinara** Piedmont, Italy Really attractive aromas right off the top: savoury, earthy, leathery, sweet fresh and dried berry fruit. Dry and fullish on the palate, with characteristically high-firm tannins and juicy acid, balanced by more than adequate fruit extract. Above average concentration and length. A (relative) value in Piemontese Nebbiolo that should give plenty of pleasure from 2009-2015. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 713354 ON $30	89 Points Zenato 2004 Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico ** Veneto, Italy Zenato's Amarone stands out in this release as the freshest, oakiest, most modern in style. It has loads of sweet vanilla and dark chocolate aromas along with sweet and some raisined fruit character. The palate is seductively soft and round, with low tannins and high (16.5%) alcohol even for passito wine. The finish is still rather oaky-caramel for the moment and should settle down over the next couple of years. Nonetheless this is a widely appealing style that would be a good choice with which to introduce someone to the world of Amarone. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 413179 ON $53
89 Points Corte Majoli 2003 Valpolicella Superiore ** Veneto, Italy One of the better deals from the Valpolicella side of the release. I really enjoyed the inviting yet serious fruity notes and above average complexity blending modern techniques with a distinctive sense of place. The palate is dry and firm in a more old world style, but their is plenty of juicy red fruit to compensate and an above average finish. Nicely made. Drink now-2011. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 84061 ON $20	89 Points Gamba Gnirega 2004 Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Le Quare ** Veneto, Italy A real earthy, meaty, savoury example of Amarone with definite appeal. Grilled meat and abundant wood spice add interest to fully raisined fruit character, while the palate shows solid, rustic styling and decent concentration and length. It is pretty well-developed now for drinking with hard cheeses and robust stews, and should hold to the middle of next decade. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 85340 ON $51
88 Points Biondi Santi 2005 Sassoalloro * Tuscany, Italy Deep purple appearance. The nose is quite closed presently, showing a little stewed berry and dried fruit character. The wine is even more backwards on the palate, with firm tannins and acid that make this solid but four-square. Overall a little less stylish and appealing than previous vintages from Biondi-Santi, but give this another couple of years in the cellar to smooth out. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 981407 ON $37	88 Points Fontodi 2005 Chianto Classico ** Tuscany, Italy The 205 Fontodi shows a clean, classy profile with plenty of berry fruit while still retaining that Tuscan earthy-savoury character. Savoury notes of above average intensity and concentration continue on the palate, framed by firm, grippy tannins and lively acid. This has the stuffing to cellar mid-term, and will likely be at its best from 2009-2014. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 933317 ON $28
87 Points Tezza 2005 Ripasso Valpolicella Ma Roat ** Veneto, Italy Clean, fresh, modern style ripasso, polished and invitingly fruity. The palate reveals a light, juicy red currant and strawberry-flavoured profile of average intensity and concentration. Quaffable; serve chilled now-2010. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 84053 ON $18	87 Points Tezza 2003 Amarone Corte Majoli * Veneto, Italy I was keen to delve into this after tasting the excellent ripasso from Corte Majoli, but was quickly deflated by the brett notes immediately evident on the nose. The palate is certainly rich and concentrated, and quite well balanced, though that distinctive earthy-barnyard aroma persisted through to the finish. This will no doubt appeal to fans of earthy styles of wine, but it was a lilted too dominant for me not to be considered a defect. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 81943 ON $39
86 Points Frascole 2005 Chianti Rufina** Tuscany, Italy Average quality, ready to drink Chianti with forward open aromas showing wood notes overlying earthy-barnyard nuances. Medium body, low but firm tannins and moderate length. Drink now. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 85167 ON $19	85 Points Bolla 2005 'Le Poiane' Valpolicella Classico Superiore* Veneto, Italy Compared to some of the other Valpolicella in this feature, the Bolla comes across as positively backwards, with rather dusty, mothball and dried cedar aromas over tart red fruit. The palate, too, is light and tart, with firm tannins in a rustic old world way. Average concentration and length. Correct for the style, though I would rather see this at under $15. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 135293 ON $20
85 Points Zonin 2006 Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore *_ Veneto, Italy Simple, sweet fruit, maple syrup and old wood spice (cinnamon) on the nose. Dry; a flashy and seductively round texture gives an almost sweet impression, leading to a caramel-woody finish. Undoubtedly a commercially successful style, but lacks the distinction and individuality of the most interesting examples. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 84798 ON $20	85 Points Campagnola 2006 Reciotto Della Valpolicella Classico* Veneto, Italy I was pleased to see a rare sweet red reciotto in the release, though ultimately disappointed in this example. It shows advanced, oxidative character both on the nose and palate, with curious apple purée notes. Merely sweet, simple and short and thus a little overpriced in my view. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 84079 ON $34
84 Points Tedeschi 2006 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Capitel Dei Nicalo * Veneto, Italy A somewhat disappointing effort given the generally reliable production of Tedeschi. I found this to have unusual earthy-barnyard character and some funky baked fruit notes. The palate too, seems to be drying out and the finish is short. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 984997 ON $19	83 Points Santa Barbara 2005 Salice Salentino Rosso * Puglia, Italy Though I am generally a fan of rustic southern Italian reds, it was tough to get into this wine with its curious herbal/stewed fruit and horseradish aromas, and dry thin, hot and low intensity palate. Drink yesterday. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 992941 ON $15
83 Points Antonio Roncolato 2005 Amarone Della Valpolicella* Veneto, Italy Either this sample was abused at some point since leaving the winery, or unfortunately the whole batch is fully baked and oxidized. Volatile acidity dominates the nose, and the only fruit-based aromas are reminiscent of dried apple peel. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 81778 ON $44
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Italy - White
88 Points Conti Carello 2006 Soave Classico** Soave, Italy Many Soave wines are so ordinary that many producers and consumers have given up on this denomination. Here is a reason for reconsideration. Medium golden in colour with a lifted nose of melon, stone fruit, baked apple with mineral and floral tones. Very clean, rich well balanced midweight palate leads onto a focused finish. Very good to excellent length. Try with a seafood or mushroom risotto. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 85514 ON $18	87 Points Peter Zemmer 2007 Pinot Grigio** Alto Adige, Italy A nice clean juicy pinot grigio showing good regional typicity. The nose shows green apple with floral mineral and almond notes plus some free sulphur still showing. Juicy and clean midweight fruit fairly rich and well balanced. Good to very good length. White mushrooms, or mild seafood dishes would work well. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 95802 ON $18
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New Zealand - Red
88 Points Sileni 2006 Triangle Merlot** Hawkes Bay, New Zealand The Triangle area is close to the famed Gimblett Gravels and has similar soils that Merlot seems to love. This shows a lot of ripeness on the nose and palate but there is sufficient acid and tannin structure to keep it just balanced plus lots of sweet oak. Rioja like with ripe plum, raspberry, pomegranate and warm oak spice aromas and flavours. Very good length but the ripe fruit is a bit hot from alcohol. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 586081 ON $19	88 Points Kim Crawford 2007 Pinot Noir** Marlborough, New Zealand A very solid pinot with aromas of plum and cherry fruit, mixed with leather and earthy notes. Full bodied with a big extraction, what it lacks in charm it makes up for with power. Medium bodied with ample red fruit on the palate. Good to very good length. Best 2008 to 2011. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 626390 ON $20
88 Points Kim Crawford 2007 Merlot** Hawkes Bay, New Zealand A well rounded if somewhat unexciting merlot. The nose is a little slender with cherry, plum, mild oak spice and a touch of leather. Medium to full bodied well balanced with the tannins poking through on the finish. Good to very good length. Best 2008 to 2011. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 680967 ON $20
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New Zealand - White
89 Points Dog Point Vineyard 2007 Sauvignon Blanc**1/2 Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand A friendly and familiar classic NZ Sauvignon here. Fresh, vibrant, herbal/grassy notes are not to aggressive. The palate is dry, medium-bodied and balanced, with lots of pleasant citrus and melon flavours. Good party wine. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 677450 ON $22	87 Points Kim Crawford 2007 Unoaked Chardonnay** Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand Baked apple and mango fruit with some floral notes plus some residual sulphur show on the nose. The palate is creamy with good depth of flavour and clean focused fruit. Good to very good length. Try with chicken, veal or rich seafood. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 991950 ON $20
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Portugal - Red
86 Points Grand'arte 2005 Alicante Bouschet ** Estremadura, Portugal Impenetrable colour. The nose is not particularly compelling, showing oaky-rubbery-reductive character alongside some baked fruit, but the palate is more appealing. Soft, ripe tannins and generous alcohol give this a rustic-flavourful style; a decent option for Tuesday night hearty stews. Drink now. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 80614 ON $15
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South Africa - Red
90 Points Cathedral Cellar 2006 Triptych*** Coastal Region, South Africa Excellent value in a very classy blend. The nose is very approachable, with cassis and black cherry fruit aromas balanced by vanilla, mint and cedar spice. Medium to full bodied with some fine ripe tannin to balance the rich fruit and acid. Very clean, quite elegant with a long lingering finish. Best 2008 to 2015. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 53124 ON $17	89 Points Cathedral Cellar 2004 Shiraz** Coastal Region, South Africa Another great value from KWV. Stylistically this is between Australia and Southern France with aromas of mocha, cedar and cola intermingled with cassis and black cherry fruit plus some earthy tones. It is midweight but rich and creamy with the ample fruit balanced by some fine tannin and firm acidity. The flavours endure well on the finish. Very good length. Best 2008 to 2012. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 561142 ON $17
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South Africa - White
89 Points KWV 2005 Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay*** Western Cape, South Africa I have tasted this wine probably a dozen times over the last couple of years. This latest batch to be released is starting to show some age though it is still great value. The primary fruit freshness has waned with aromas of smoky stewed apple with oak and nutty complexity. The palate is rich and creamy with baked pineapple and spicy peach evident. The finish is big; the length excellent and the balance is still there. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 328559 ON $15
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Spain - Fortified/Dessert
93 Points Gonzalez Byass N/V Del Duque Amontillado *** Spain Even more impressive than the Apostoles, this old Amontillado (fino left to age eventually for an extended period without the protective layer of flor yeast) has a spectacularly complex nose and tangy-salty flavour on the palate. An absolutely brilliant wine for the money, aged minimum 30 years before bottling. How can you go wrong? Try with 1 year-old manchego for a revelation. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 694331 ON $34	91 Points Gonzalez Byass N/V Apostoles Very Old Palo Cortado** Spain As reliable as ever, this release of Apostoles, named for 12 large barrels at the Gonzalez-Byass Bodega in Jerez where this wine ages (Judas is always left empty) has the typically evolved semi-oxidative, semi flor-influenced aromas from its curious categorization of a particularly fine fino that develops some oloroso character over time. Walnuts, spice and wood dominate the smooth, warm and satisfying palate. Sherry requires no further ageing, and will keep, refrigerated, for several weeks without loosing much character, making it ideal for after dinner sipping or mid-afternoon with a bowl of roasted nuts or jamón Serrano. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 969527 ON $34
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Spain - Red
89 Points Capcanes 2005 Costers del Gravet ** Montsant, Spain Montsant in In Catalonia regularly produces interesting, modern reds like this example from Capçanes. A blend of Cabernet, Garnacha and Cariñena, it shows stylish ripe black fruit and oak, with a hint of wild Mediterranean scrub brush to make things more interesting. The palate is solid and a little chunky, but certainly flavourful - this needs a couple of years to reach its peak. Drink 2011-2015+. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 707059 ON $26
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United States - Red
89 Points Kenwood 2005 Merlot ** Sonoma County, California, United States A clean, polished, well-measured Merlot that delivers all of the expected ripe black fruit and integrated oak on the nose. The palate is soft and round with an attractive velvety texture and above average flavour intensity. Solid. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 717348 ON $23	87 Points Hedges Cellars 2006 CMS**1/2 Columbia Valley, Washington State, United States Correct all around, this Cabernet-dominated red from Washington has a pleasant fruit-wood synthesis and just a touch of earth. The palate is soft and round with underlying grippy tannins and a pleasant oaky finish. Solid and reasonably priced, and the expensive-looking label is a bonus if you're taking this to a party. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 948992 ON $18
86 Points Edward Sellers 2005 Vertigo* Paso Robles, California, United States Hard not to make the reference to vertiginous level of alcohol here (15.8%) that would make many Amarone blush. The nose shows high intensity oak, melted butter and baked/dried red fruit and orange peel, while the palate is hot and highly extracted (especially for usually low-tannin Grenache). Finish is hot and short with abundant coconut-American oak flavour. A caricature of a wine that is admittedly not my style, though it will have its fans. Drink with a cold winter's night. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 77875 ON $40	84 Points Red Truck 2006 Red Truck* California, United States A very simple, fruity, woody, uncomplicatedly commercial style of wine that should really be under $10. Why are we asked to pay so much for this level of wine? Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 693903 ON $17
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United States - Sparkling
85 Points Graham Beck 2005 Blanc de Blancs Premier Cuvée Brut *1/2 Robertson, United States 100% Chardonnay. Rather advanced, oxidative style, showing a touch of petrol alongside pie crust and bruised apple. The palate is dry, surprisingly high acid and a little hard, finishing short. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 907568 ON $22
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United States - White
89 Points Ferrari-Carano 2005 Chardonnay** Alexander Valley, United States Bright pale gold, almost neon yellow. Moderate intensity nose, but the 14.4% alcohol is readily apparent. Baked apple, dried citrus zest and buttery oak on the nose, hiding just a touch of acetone likely derived from superripe fruit. The palate is dry, full, fat, rich, intensely flavoured but almost spirity. This will appeal to fans of big, buttery, ripe Chardonnays, though i would drink up soon. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 295055 ON $39	88 Points Murphy-Goode 2006 Chardonnay** Sonoma County, California, United States Fresh and clean stone fruit and apples on the nose, with very subtle wood notes - rather inviting. Dry, fullish and round, with balanced acid and enough solid concentration and flavour to satisfy. Drink now-2010. Tasted By: John Szabo LCBO Product Code: 745 ON $22
87 Points Dr. Konstantin Frank 2006 Dry Riesling* Finger Lakes, New York, United States Crisp and minerally but not as exciting as previous vintages. The nose shows mineral, apple/pear fruit but also too much sulphur. The palate is dry with some elegant fruit and good balance. Very good length. Tasted By: Steve Thurlow LCBO Product Code: 70631 ON $25
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Features

Ripasso & Amarone

1.    356220 TOMMASI 2004 AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 91 $53 **½  
2.    13417 BERTANI 2004 AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA VALPANTENA 91 $57 **½  
3.    85159 STEFANO ACCORDINI  2005 VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE ACINATICO RIPASSO 90 $29 **½  
4.    84061 CORTE MAJOLI 2003 VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 89 $20 **½  
5.    85340 GAMBA GNIREGA 2004 AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO LE QUARE 89 $51 **  
6.    413179 ZENATO 2004 AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 89 $53 **
 

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Upcoming Global Wine Tour course conducted by Steve Thurlow:

October 24/08 Exploring The Wines Of South Africa
November 5/08 Exploring The Wines Of Spain
December 11/08 Exploring The Wines Of New Zealand

See Globalwinetour.com for details and registration, and visit www.stevethurlow.com to find out more about what Steve is up to these days.

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Upcoming Events

October

• 20
  "Me and My Jadot" - The Ultimate Fine Wine Dinner (6:30 p.m., Champagne Reception followed by a Burgundian feast prepared by the Master chefs at the Four Seasons Hotel; Presented by Lifford Wine Agency in association with Grapes for Humanity -- Donations of wine readily accepted for the silent auction) -- Tony Aspler, tony.aspler@sympatico.ca

• 23
  Regional Heroes Master Class Trade Seminar (11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Juniper Kitchen and Wine Bar, 245 Richmond Road, Ottawa) -- Marnie Williamson, Wine Australia, 416/323-1893, marnie.williamson@austrade.gov.au, www.wineaustralia.com

• 23
  Vintages Château Haut-Brion Structured Tasting & Dinner (6:15 p.m., Structured Tasting; 7:15 p.m., Champagne Reception; 8 p.m., Dinner; Splendido Restaurant, 88 Harbord Street, Toronto; Featuring Estate Manager Jean-Philippe Delmas, son of legendary oenologist Jean Bernard Delmas) -- LCBO Vintages Sales and Service Centre, 416/365-5767, 1-800/266-4764 (Sold Out)

• 24
  Whisky Live (4-10 p.m.; Hall G, Metro Toronto Convention Centre, 255 Front Street West, Toronto) -- Damian Riley-Smith, Paragraph Publishing Ltd., + 44 1603 633 808, www.whiskylive.com

• 24-26
  Vintages Wine Auction (Ritchies Auction House, 288 King Street East, Toronto) -- John Miller, Ritchies, 416/364-3902, jmiller@ritchies.com

• 29
  Vintages Wine 101 (6 p.m., Reception; 6:30-9 p.m., Tasting; Fairmont Chateau Laurier, 1 Rideau Street, Ottawa) -- LCBO Vintages Sales and Service Centre, 416/365-5767, 1-800/266-4764

November

• 3
  ICE Annual Wine Tasting (11 a.m. - 5 p.m., Trade Tasting; 7-10 p.m., Consumer Tasting; Roy Thomson Hall, 60 Simcoe Street, Toronto; Supporting the Heart & Stroke Foundation of Ontario) -- Benedetta Marassi, Italian Trade Commission, 416/598-1566, benedetta.marassi.toronto@ice.it

• 6
  Wines of Argentina Tasting (3-6:30 p.m., Trade Tasting; 7-11 p.m., Consumer Tasting; The Design Exchange, 235 Bay Street, Toronto) -- Ariel Menniti, amenniti@winesofargentina.org, www.winesofargentina.com.ar

• 7-9
  23rd Annual Ottawa Wine and Food Show (November 7 and 8, 12-9 p.m.; November 9, 11:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; Lansdowne Park, 1015 Bank Street, Ottawa) -- Joan Culliton, 613/523-9463, joan@ottawawineandfoodshow.com

• 21
  2008 Beaujolais Festival (6 p.m.; The Dominion Club, 1 King Street West, Toronto -- This festival celebrates the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau as well as the 10 Beaujolais Crus that are the jewels in Beaujolais' crown -- Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Côte-de-Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin à Vent, Régnié, and Saint Amour) -- French Chamber of Commerce in Canada (Toronto Chapter), 416/205-9820, ccfe@bellnet.ca

• 24
  French Wine Connection (Toronto; 11 a.m.- 5 p.m.; Trade Tasting; The Fermenting Cellar, Distillery Historic District, 55 Mill Street, Toronto; Featuring French wines not yet available in the Ontario market) -- Aude Guivarch, French Trade Commission, 416/977-1257, Ext. 220, aude.guivarch@missioneco.org

• 27
  OIWSBA Members' Meeting (8:30 Breakfast, 9 a.m. Meeting; Ballroom, Boulevard Club, 1491 Lakeshore Boulevard West, Toronto; Final Business Meeting of 2008; The LCBO's Dr. George Soleas will discuss Consignment and Quality Assurance issues) -- Ian Campbell, OIWSBA, 416/699-9535, ian.campbell@oiwsba.com, www.oiwsba.com

December

• 6-7
  Vintages Wine Auction (Ritchies Auction House, 288 King Street East, Toronto) -- John Miller, Ritchies, 416/364-3902, jmiller@ritchies.com

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Additional Reviews

Australia - Red

90 Dog Ridge 2006 The Pup Cabernet Merlot ***
McLaren Vale
Really inviting, ripe but not jammy black fruit and distinctive spice, herbal, tobacco, black licorice - above average complexity without excessive oak. Dry, fullish, soft, plush tannins, balanced acidity, and moderate (for McLaren Vale) alcohol of 14%. This shows a lot of style and class for the money in a food-friendly Cabernet-Merlot, designed for short the mid-term cellaring. (JS)
ON: $20.95
Agent: Le Sommelier

89 Dog Ridge 2006 The Pup Shiraz **1/2
McLaren Vale
Sweet cacao, coffee and dark chocolate mingles with black cherry liqueur, roasted plum and a lifted hint of eucalyptus. Dry, fullish, fat and succulent sweet fruit, adequate acidity and soft plush tannins lend this a highly appealing texture. Moderate finish. A well-made, clearly new world style Shiraz that is ready to drink now or will hold 2-4 years or more. (JS)
ON: $20.95
Agent: Le Sommelier

91 Dog Ridge 2006 Square Cut Cabernet **1/2
McLaren Vale
Still reticent on the nose, showing just a glimpse of earth, tobacco spice, cassis, and ripe but not jammy black fruit. The wine then opens with aeration to reveal additional layers of depth and complexity. The palate is dry, firm, savoury, herbal, dark spice, with intense flavours, moderate tannins, balanced acidity and enough class and elegance to make this more interesting than the average. (JS)
ON: $35.95
Agent: Le Sommelier

90 Ardent Estates 2004 Cabernet Franc **1/2
Adelaide Hills
Very intense, fragrant, spicy and floral black fruit, eucalyptus, black cherry essence and black raspberry aromas. Dry, fullish, ripe, rich succulent black fruit character on the palate, soft silky tannins. A bit of heat sticks out on the finish, but lingering flavours of tobacco, coffee, black fruit and faded violets add degrees of interest and class. (JS)
ON: $22.95
Agent: Le Sommelier

87 Ardent Estates 2005 Shiraz **
McLaren Vale
Clean, savoury, earthy, black cherry essence, wet bark, tobacco, above average complexity. Dry, full, soft tannins, moderate intensity and complexity, average length finish. Lots on the nose but the palate seems to fall short here. Drink now. (JS)
ON: $23.95
Agent: Le Sommelier

88 Ardent Estates 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon **
McLaren Vale
A full rich, mouth filling, sweet black fruit-flavoured red with dusty tannins and generous alcohol that offers a lot on the nose and up front on the palate, but finishes precipitously. This should be enjoyed in the near term with hearty fare. (JS)
ON: $23.95
Agent: Le Sommelier

Australia - White

87 Dog Ridge 2008 The Pup Sauvignon Blanc **
McLaren Vale
Clean, fresh, green tropical fruit notes, pineapple, honeydew melon, key lime pie - ripe but not overtly herbaceous. Dry, medium body, juicy acidity, pleasant youthful banana, lime, grapefruit and candied green apple flavours, bright acidity and moderate finish. A pleasant, refreshing wine designed for pleasure in the short term. (JS)
ON: $20.95
Agent: Le Sommelier

88 Ardent Estates 2008 Unwooded Chardonnay **1/2
Adelaide Hills
This is a ripe & zesty unoaked chardonnay from the relatively cool zone of the Adelaide Hills. Youthful, straight out of the fermentation vat aromas of green apple, pineapple, melon and green peach dominate the nose. The palate shows above average concentration and an almost sweet impression, given the ripeness and intensity of fruit. Moderate length. this will provide enjoyment over the next 2-3 years. (JS)
ON: $20.95
Agent: Le Sommelier

Canada - Red

87 Le Clos Jordanne 2006 Village Reserve Pinot Noir **
Twenty Mile Bench
Light, delicately perfumed, high-toned aromas with distinct herbal-vegetal notes and a hint of volatile acidity and faded violet/rose petals. Dry, light-bodied, high acid, low-medium tannins; just a hint of wood and rusticity emerge on the finish. Clearly a Pinot from a lighter vintage compared to previous editions of the village reserve, destined for enjoyment in the short term. (JS)
ON: $30.00
Agent: Vincor

89 Le Clos Jordanne 2006 La Petite Vineyard Pinot Noir **1/2
Twenty Mile Bench
Very fine and delicate here again, with high-toned perfume and faded rose petals alongside tart red berry/cherry, cranberry, with just a hint of dried berry fruit and sweet wet earth. The palate is lively and juicy, with lovely silky tannins and succulent acidity, lingering nicely on perfumed-floral and limestone mineral notes. Certainly more Volnay in style, to use a Burgundian comparison. (JS)
ON: $40.00
Agent: Vincor

89 Le Clos Jordanne 2006 Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir **1/2
Twenty Mile Bench
The deepest in colour of the range, as usual. Somewhat closed at the moment, though shows a distinct rusty iron-like minerality, spice and earth. Dry, fullish, solidly built with pronounced (for Pinot) tannins and juicy acidity. The finish is pinched somewhat. Claystone is the chewiest and meatiest of the lot, the most new world out of a clearly old world range. (JS)
ON: $40.00
Agent: Vincor

91 Le Clos Jordanne 2006 Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir **1/2
Twenty Mile Bench
Closed at the moment on the nose, just barely showing some sweet dried floral notes, elegant and delicate. Fullish, round, soft and silky yet with enough substance and grip to hold and improve in the short to midterm. This has an extra measure depth and length on the palate as well as an immediately appealing satiny texture. Fruit trends to succulent raspberry and strawberry. A real "hedonist's wine, the most gourmand" according to winemaker Thomas Bachelder. (JS)
ON: $65.00
Agent: Vincor

91 Le Clos Jordanne 2006 Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir **1/2
Twenty Mile Bench
Sweet, fresh red raspberry, fully integrated light wood notes and cinnamon spice - still a bit closed. Dry, medium-bodied; wood notes are more prevalent on the palate, lending a sweet caramel finish and rounding out the tannins to a silky sheen. This is remarkably ready to drink but I suspect it will continue to improve over the next 2-4 years and hold an additional couple beyond that. A lighter, more delicate and transparent version of the Grand Clos, representative of the vintage. (JS)
ON: $70.00
Agent: Vincor

Canada - White

88 Le Clos Jordanne 2006 Village Reserve Chardonnay **
Twenty Mile Bench
Subdued, resinous notes off the top, followed by mineral and fresh stone fruit, pear and apple aromas. Dry, firm textured, pronounced acidity and really finely integrated wood that makes a subtle backdrop. Stylish and flavourful, very old world and infinitely food-friendly. (JS)
ON: $30.00
Agent: Vincor

91 Le Clos Jordanne 2006 Claystone Terrace Chardonnay **1/2
Twenty Mile Bench
A little more color and ripeness apparently on the nose, including some white mushroom and slightly smoky, flinty notes and grapefruit, honeydew and Anjou pear. Dry, fullish, solid and succulent on the palate with palpable grip and high flavour intensity. Again, Claystone's solid, almost rustic side shows through, offering a full flavoured yet intriguingly mineral expression for mid-term cellaring. (JS)
ON: $40.00
Agent: Vincor

92 Le Clos Jordanne 2006 Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay *** T
wenty Mile Bench
Wonderful purity of expression on the nose, showing distinctly floral-mineral notes - this seems to have it all. Fullish, soft, silky, succulent and refined texture, stone fruit and ripe lemon/meyer lemon flavours, and long, lingering finish. Lots of class and distinction here - seems to have the most finesse, and great affinity for food. (JS)
ON: $40.00
Agent: Vincor

90 Le Clos Jordanne 2006 Le Grand Clos Chardonnay **
Twenty Mile Bench
The Grand clos is a bit awkward on the nose, showing earth, wood mushroom and light vegetal notes; the fruit is not currently there. On the palate its dry, palpably grippy on the palate; generous alcohol lends a warm finish. Solid and structured, just not together yet, so consider the score provisional. (JS)
ON: $70.00
Agent: Vincor

Chile - Red

87 Errazuriz 2007 Carmenère Estate ***
Aconcagua Valley
Clean, moderate intensity, ripe but not overripe red and black fruit, spicy pepper, hints of violet and chocolate, cold cream. Dry, medium body and concentration, well balanced, pleasant fruity and light wood chocolate flavours, low, soft plush tannins, average length. Pleasant, pliable and versatile version of Carmenère. Great party wine. (JS)
ON: $13.80
Agent: Philippe Dandurand

89 Errazuriz 2006 Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon ***
Aconcagua Valley
A slightly cooler year; this shows considerable freshness and marked herbal notes, black licorice, cassis - almost old world in style. Dry, fullish, lively, juicy acid, moderate, ripe tannins, fine flavour intensity. Quite delicate and spicy, integrated chocolaty oak. Above average finish. A very fine value in sub-$20 premium wine. (JS)
ON: $18.00
Agent: Philippe Dandurand

93 Montes 2005 Montes Alpha "M" **
Colchagua valley
The 2005 "M" Bordeaux blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon has a ripe, elegant nose with lots of class and finesse. Fruit character is quite plush but not jammy, with plenty of high-quality new wood and high complexity. The palate is full and round, with abundant velvety tannins that are well coated in fruit extract and generous alcohol. Long, warm finish. This should be at its best from 2010-2020. (JS)
ON: $82.00
Agent: Whitehall Agencies

92 Montes 2005 Montes Folly **
Colchagua Valley
Montes' Iconic 100% Syrah has highly characteristic ultra ripe black fruit aromas overlying, sweet cacao and caramel wood notes in an unabashedly new world style. The palate shows remarkable finesse and suave, delicate but abundant tannins that lends structure and framework to support the luxuriant fruit and oak. Although highly accessible now, this should continue to improve over the next decade or so and hold even longer. (JS)
ON: $82.00
Agent: Whitehall Agencies

93 Montes 2005 Montes Purple Angel ***
Colchagua Valley
Montes make no effort here to hide the characteristic herbal-vegetal notes that is part of the Carmenère genetic make-up, seemingly enhancing even some of the brighter top notes and showcasing the floral-violet side of the grape as well. The palate though reveals fully ripe fruit and sweet tannins, which are present in abundance, adding a touch of grip. High alcohol underscores the ripeness, and seductive wood and herbal notes carry through to the long finish. A very fine and refined example of the variety (though perhaps less so than the more mainstream Cabernet and Syrah), destined to be enjoyed now-2018 or more. Super value here. (JS)
ON: $51.00
Agent: Whitehall Agencies

89 Lapostolle 2006 Cuvée Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley
Curious resinous, herbal and underlying vegetal notes that speak to the difficulty of the vintage - the wine seems at an awkward stage of development currently. The palate is quite fresh and juicy, however, showing fine vibrancy, lively acidity and moderate, smartly extracted tannins. Above average finish. This should offer a lot (JS)
ON: $34.95
Agent: Diageo

95 Lapostolle 2005 Clos Apalta
Colchagua Valley
Carmenère 42%, with 26% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot (planted in 2000), all hand-destemmed. Exuberant, ultra ripe black fruit and spice on the nose; new wood is almost fully absorbed by the concentration - great complexity, The palate is full and surprisingly solid, with abundant, chewy, but ripe and plush tannins. This is a real mouthful of wine and a seeming departure from previous vintages that were less structured and probably less age worthy. The 2005 Apalta will be a wine for the ages, already showing its class and depth. Best 2012-2025. (JS)
Agent: Diageo

91 Errazuriz 2005 La Cumbre
Aconcagua Valley
Very intense dark chocolate notes dominate the nose, plenty of sweet new wood evident, vanilla, black fruit, ripe fig, verging on jam. Dry, full, bit with surprising acidity - a little more structured and firm than expected from the generous nose. This should age quite well to 2020. (JS)

91 Errazuriz 2005 Kai
Aconcagua Valley
Ripe, roasted vegetal notes - fine Carmenère character, ripe black fruit and violets. Dry, soft, low acid expression, fine, soft and ripe tannins. Plush and ready for early pleasure. (JS)

92 Errazuriz 2005 Don Maximiniano
Aconcagua Valley
Moderate intensity - seems to be a little closed at the moment, but shows underlying class and elegance, integrated wood and spice, and sweet blue fruit character. Dry, full bodied, lots of finesse on the palate, with additional lifted floral notes and suave, silky texture. This is drinking well now, but should hold until 2018. (JS)

93 Seña 2005 Seña
Closed and a bit resinous, with marked wood influence, chocolate and coffee notes over ripe black fruit. Dry, fullish, balanced, juicy, elegant structure, very long finish. Plenty of class here and lingering flavour. This will be at its best from 2010-2020. (JS)

Chile - White

88 Errazuriz 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Estate ***
Casablanca Valley
Considered by Señor Chadwick to be a very strong vintage for white wines. From the north-east part of the valley, a slightly warmer zone. Very clean, fresh, fragrant, intensely fruity and perfumed, passion fruit, ripe citrus (harvested at two times, two weeks apart to capture a range of flavours and degrees of ripeness. Dry, bright, very fruity and juicy, lovely citrus notes with underlying tropical. moderate plus finish. Lovely sipping wine destined for immediate pleasure. Outrageous good value. (JS)
ON: $11.80
Agent: Philippe Dandurand

90 Lapostolle 2005 Cuvée Alexandre Atalayas Vineyard Chardonnay ***
Casablanca Valley
Delicate but ripe new world style Chardonnay, with attractive stone fruit character, pear, apple, and integrated high quality wood. The palate is fullish with some implicit sweetness and round, rich, pineapple and roasted pear carried on a very seductive, succulent frame. Long finish. Drink now-2012+ Lovely new world example. (JS)
ON: $28.00
Agent: Diageo

France - White

90 Domaines Pierre Gaillard 2007 Tremadoc Collioure Blanc ***
Roussillon
Really intriguing, classic old world style white, with apple, honey, lavender, wet stone, well above average complexity. Dry, fullish, round rich and creamy texture, high flavour, light barley sugar and caramelized apple finish. Long. A very fine, southern French white for a myriad of highly flavourful Mediterranean dishes. (JS)
ON: $26.00
Agent: The Case for Wine

91 Domaines Pierre Gaillard 2006 St. Joseph **
Rhône Valley
Advanced, rather mature aromas with custard and crème caramel, baked peach and apricot, dried flowers. Dry, fullish, very flavourful on the palate. Distinct fruit skin bitterness, moderate intensity and concentration and even a hint of mold/rot emerges. Give this a little air and it freshens up remarkably, revealing orange blossom honey and a full range of floral-stone fruit notes of fine class. (JS)
ON: $37.00
Agent: The Case for Wine

Italy - Red

87 Tenuta Caparzo 2007 IGT Toscana **1/2
Tuscany
Sangiovese is blended here with Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to produce a modern, fresh, clean highly fruit driven, orange peel-scented red, with attractive cran-cherry notes. Dry, medium-bodied, moderate, juicy acid, moderate intensity and finish, ending on pleasant morello cherry notes. This is a hand bottled sample, the properly prepared bottle should have even brighter fruit. (JS)
ON: $17.00
Agent: The Case for Wine

88 Fattoria Ormanni 2005 Chianti Classico **
Tuscany
Clean but more traditional, earthy, cranberry, cherry style Chianti here with pleasant wet earth, tobacco, dark spice notes. Dry, medium-bodied, moderate but firm tannins, crisp acidity and moderate finish. For fans of old style Chianti, without the funk. (JS)
ON: $24.00
Agent: The Case for Wine

87 Az. Agr. Marco Porello 2007 Mommiano Barbera d'Alba **
Piedmont
Clean, fresh, juicy, just chalk full of dark cherry fruit - highly inviting. Dry, juicy, low tannins, crisp acid. Serve this chilled with anything from the salumiere. Fun, fresh, and delicious. (JS)
ON: $19.00
Agent: The Case for Wine

89 Poggio al Tesoro 2005 Sondraia IGT Toscana **
Bolgheri
The new Bolgheri project co-launched by Marilisa Allegrini of Veneto-Amarone fame and US importer Leonardo Locasio is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc and Merlot. Clean, abundantly fruity, modern, average length. Correct. (JS)
ON: $55.00
Agent: Calibrium

92 Poggio al Tesoro 2005 "W" Dedicato a Walter **
Bolgheri
100% Cabernet Franc. Lifted nose of floral and light herbal components, surprisingly not overripe or overly modern. Ripe red and black fruit mingle with licorice. The palate is silky and delicate, with very fine grained tannins - just lightly grippy, moderate acidity and long intense finish with polished wood influence. (JS)
ON: $104.00
Agent: Calibrium

Italy - White

88 Az. Agr. Marco Porello 2007 Langhe Favorita **1/2
Piedmont
Light - moderate intensity, highly stony-mineral, citrus, lime, green peach-pear aromas. Dry, medium bodied, highly versatile and food friendly with its crisp citrusy acid and lingering juicy finish. Pleasant peach skin bitter notes and rather succulent, round texture. Delightful. (JS)
ON: $17.00
Agent: The Case for Wine

Mexico - Spirits

Casa Tradición NV Clase Azul Platino Tequila Plata
Jalisco
Kettle-steamed piña. Fresh, vegetal, pure agave flavours show some complexity and class. Distinctly sweet on the palate, round and suave texture, long, caramelized sugar finish. A very commercially appealing style. (JS)
ON: $90.00
Agent: Tre Amici

Casa Tradición NV Clase Azul Tequila Reposado
Jalisco
8 months in white oak. Intriguing, refined, sweet caramel-woody-baking spice nose like fine XO Cognac, mellow and complex. Round, soft, high intensity flavours and sweet caramel-crème brulée (JS)
ON: $140.00
Agent: Tre Amici

Spain - Red

87 El Bombero 2006 DO Cariñena ***
Aragón
Clean, strawberry jam-scented, simple but pleasant nose. Dry, medium bodied, soft, round pleasant, low tannins, average intensity and finish, but fruity and highly appealing. Great value in a by the glass selection. Can you believe that this is 15% alcohol? Wears it very well. (JS)
ON: $14.50
Agent: The Case for Wine

United States - Red

91 Silverado Vineyards 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon **1/2
Napa Valley
Clean, elegant, rather delicate aromas showing attractive floral, red and black fruit nuances, roasted plum, fresh herb and light spice - lovely. Dry, fine grained tannins, full but not overwhelming body. Long finish. This is a Napa Cabernet with plenty of style and elegance and no shortage of flavour. (JS)
ON: $50.00
Agent: Kylix

89 Silverado Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon **
Napa Valley
A little darker and more herbal - wood spice, dried herbs, moderate intensity and complexity. Dry, light-medium-bodied, light but dusty, grippy tannins, a little hot on the finish. Moderate intensity. Correct. (JS)
ON: $50.00
Agent: Kylix

92 Silverado Vineyards 2005 Solo Cabernet Sauvignon Stag's Leap District **
Napa Valley
10,000 bottles produced. A heritage clone of Cabernet, called the Silverado clone. Rich, intense, coffee, abundant, high quality oak. Ripe black fruit, classic Napa nose. Dry, full, round, rich, soft plush tannins, long finish. A real classic, without the excessive oak and extract. Nice to see some finesse here. (JS)
ON: $90.00
Agent: Kylix

90 Justin Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon **1/2
Paso Robles
Forward, open, fragrant, very ripe red fruit, strawberry, high-toned spice, thoroughly appealing and deliciously soft on the palate. Tannins are ripe and plush, and lower acidity gives an almost sweet impression on the palate. Moderate finish. Ready to drink now, should hold 2014+. (JS)
ON: $32.00
Agent: The Vine

90 Justin Vineyards 2006 Syrah **1/2
Paso Robles
100% Syrah. Deep, dark, spicy, mineral, violet, black fruit, integrated black pepper and wood spice - lots to contemplate on the nose. Dry, fullish, quite firm and driven by black cherry essence; high alcohol (15%) makes the palate quite warm and generous and gives it an almost jammy profile, but adequate acidity reigns in the fruit and gives focus. (JS)
ON: $34.00
Agent: The Vine

92 Justin Vineyards 2006 Savant **1/2
Paso Robles
A Provençal-inspired blend of 59% Syrah and 41% Cabernet, looking for structure from the Cab and colour and rich, sweet fruit from the Syrah. A part of Syrah is partially air dried before fermentation in open top fermenters. Rich, ripe, opulent aromas verging on dried black fruit, fig, date, cassis, in addition to more prominent new wood smoky influence. The palate is rich and full, with high alcohol, and moderate plus tannins that are so coated with fruit extract as to go almost unnoticed. Long finish. (JS)
ON: $52.00
Agent: The Vine

93 Justin Vineyards 2006 Justification ***
Paso Robles
The "right bank" blend to complement the "left bank" flagship Isosceles, with 2/3 Cabernet Franc and 1/3 merlot. Fragrant, high-toned, floral-violet, delicate red berry fruit, red cherry essence and a touch of mentholated herb. The palate is dry and delicate, with above average acidity and uncommon elegance from such a usually high-octane appellation. Tannins are fully ripe and unobtrusive, with a silky texture. Long finish. Really delightful food wine that should age well to the end of the next decade. (JS)
ON: $52.00
Agent: The Vine

92 Justin Vineyards 2005 Isoceles **
Paso Robles
Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated with Cabernet Franc and a pinch of Merlot. Big, deep, obviously concentrated nose, showing rich, superripe black fruit, dried herbs and scrub brush, dusty earth and black licorice. The palate is fully saturated with the flavour of cherries macerated in alcohol and well integrated wood notes; abundant but fully ripe tannins should enable this to last and improve over the next couple of decades. A little burly and unyielding for the moment. Drink from 2012-2025. (JS)
ON: $79.00
Agent: The Vine

United States - White

89 Silverado Vineyards 2007 Muller Ranch Sauvignon Blanc **1/2
Napa Valley
Clean, fresh, tropical expression of Sauvignon Blanc, lots of melon, papaya, mango and passion fruit, white peach and mandarin. Dry, medium bodied, creamy texture, essentially unoaked (there is a pinch of barrel fermented Semillon, but not strongly manifested). Nice fruity, expressive version; moderate finish. (JS)
ON: $24.00
Agent: Kylix

88 Silverado Vineyards 2006 Vineburg Chardonnay **
Carneros
Intriguing floral, honeysuckle, yeasty character, very moderate oak, apple, meyer lemon, slightly reductive though toasted nut/hazelnut. A perplexing wine, creamy texture but has some green apple like freshness. Strong lees character. (JS)
ON: Private Order - $35
Agent: Kylix

88 Justin Vineyards 2007 Chardonnay **
Paso Robles
8 months on wood, 1/4 new. Ripe, creamy, very well integrated oak, apple, pear, lemon-scented crème brulée - very attractive. Dry, with a streak of cleansing acidity and a two-sided personality with citrus green apple flavours matched by riper, creamier stone fruit notes - no malolactic fermentation here. Average finish. Correct, pleasant, well balanced style. (JS)
ON: $25.00
Agent: The Vine

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