Buying the Label: Chile

This past January, a number of Canadians, including several Wine Access writers, were asked to judge at the 7th Annual Wines of Chile Awards. Throughout the week, we tasted a large number of new wines and, following the competition, many of us had the opportunity to tour several of the regions and wineries. The list that follows includes some of our favourite wines from the competition — all currently, or soon to be, available in Canada.

For full results from the 2010 Wines of Chile Awards, visit their website at winesofchile.org.

95 Santa Rita 2005 Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon

Buin, Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile

AB $75

The latest Casa Real is the best I have ever tasted. And while it is not yet available in Canada, it should be headed this way soon so fans should keep a look out for it. Made with 40-plus-year-old fruit, the ’05 Casa Real entices you with its sublime nose of mint, cassis and spicy liquorice, all supporting some pure plum fruit. The textures are the best ever. So supple and so balanced — zero green elements. Nothing but rich dense fruit in a sophisticated cabernet sauvignon that should be sold across the country that buys so much regular Santa Rita wine. The best since 1999 and, perhaps, already even better than that fine bottle. (AG)

94 Seña 2007

Aconcagua Valley, Chile

BC $76 private wine stores, ON $79, NS $73

Watch for the new vintage of the flagship red of the Errazuriz empire. It is now 100 percent single vineyard, grown in a 16-hectare hillside vineyard in the Aconcagua Valley that is all biodynamically farmed. This vintage blends all five Bordeaux varieties, led by cabernet sauvignon at 57 percent. Within the resulting opulent richness, it’s incredible to feel that firm Bordeaux centre. This is one of the most Euro-style wines in Chile. It’s full-bodied, complex, beautifully centered and exceedingly long on the finish. Firmly tannic and brusque now, but you know this will live a long time. Best 2015 to 2025 and beyond. (DL)

93 Emiliana 2007 Coyam

Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $35 specialty listing, AB $23, MB $30

Coyam takes a big step up and embraces the terrific 2007 vintage. The aromatics and nose are the best yet, replete with blackberries, savoury red fruits, floral mineral aspects and a dusting of toffee, chocolate and coffee. The palate is rich and smooth. Its dark fruit flavours preview a glossy, slippery texture that slides down the throat effortlessly. This is quintessential biodynamic fruit, alive with flavours. The grapes come off the 150-hectare Los Robles vineyard surrounded by oak trees, or Coyam as they are called in the native dialect. (AG)

92 Montes 2006

Alpha M Apalta, Chile

BC $88, AB $80

The Alpha M from Apalta was the first Icon Chilean wine produced in 1996. Improving every vintage since then, a recent vertical showed their good cellaring potential, all the wines are aging gracefully. A slower ripening vintage in 2006 resulted in more elegance showing in the blend of cab sauv, cab franc, merlot, and petit verdot (80/10/5/5). Low yields with 18 months in new French oak add complexity to the classical balance of this intense, yet soft, fruity, classy statement wine. Very impressive. (SC)

91 Caliterra 2008

Tributo Carmenère Colchagua Valley, Chile

MB $15, NB $20

The colour is deep purple, with ultra-ripe, concentrated blackberry and blueberry fruit flavours and notable, but integrated, sweet wood (American and French). The palate is full, fat and seemingly soft, but there is so much fruit extract that significant tannins come across as plush and well-coated. Some herbal-spice flavours typical of the variety emerge, but this is anything but the exceedingly green versions of days gone by. Very good to excellent length completes the picture. Drink now or hold 5 to 7 years. (JS)

90 Cono Sur 2007 Limited Edition 20 Barrels Pinot Noir

Casablanca Valley, Chile

BC $25, AB $26, QC $28

Cono Sur has a special knack with pinot noir and kudos goes out to winemakers Adolfo Hurtado and Matias Rios for encouraging the local terroir to show in the best grapes. Underrated impressive cherries, strawberries and other fresh red fruits emerge in an earthy, spicy, lively, current-drinking style that is balanced enough to integrate, round out and develop even more complexity with a few more years in the bottle. The 2008 was judged the best pinot noir at the 7th Annual Wines of Chile Competition in Santiago in January 2010. (SC)

90 De Martino 2008 Legado Reserve Chardonnay

Limarí Valley, Chile

NB $21

De Martino winemaker Marcelo Retamal was one of the early believers in the Limarí Valley as a source of well-balanced, highly mineral-driven wines — chardonnay in particular — and this example proves his instinct correct. With complexity well above the average, the Legado Reserve has well-defined citrus, pear and stone fruit character, and mouth-salivating, wet chalk/stone flavours. Lively acidity is softened by complex and creamy lees, and the finish lingers nicely. Really well-crafted overall. Drink or hold 2 to 4 years. (JS)

90 Santa Rita 2007 Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon

Maipo Valley, Chile

ON $19

Many in Chile consider 2007 the best vintage of all time, and given the performance of this workhorse cabernet it is obviously true. It has both size and density, with some elegance to boot. Deeply coloured and brimming with classic Maipo cassis, eucalyptus, liquorice and clove on the nose. Quite firm, but well integrated, with excellent length. This should rest a couple of years but should live past 2020. I have had 15 year bottles already and each one was showing well. (DL)

89 Matetic Vineyards 2007 Corralillo Syrah

San Antonio, Chile

AB $29

This fourth-generation family from Croatia pioneered the first cold climate syrah back in 1999, in the spectacular hilly Rosario Valley of San Antonio. Now this modern biodynamic winery has two successful syrah labels, both spending 12 months in French oak. The Corralillo is grown on poor granite/sandy soil, with deep roots planted on hillsides. It is showing delicious, easy, chocolate/mocha and fruit, with a hotter finish. This is perfect for barbecue. (SC)

88 De Martino 2007 Legado Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon

Maipo, Chile

QC $18

If you want to smell the eucalyptus of Maipo cabernet, here it is. It’s very subtle, hidden behind the cassis, the gravel and the hint of vanilla. But rather than inspiring memories of Vick’s Vap-o-Rub, it refreshes and adds complexity to this wine. Ripe, powerful and not at all heavy, with solid enough tannin to hold the wine together. One of Chile’s premier wineries. (BZ)

88 Amayna 2007 Chardonnay

San Antonio-Leyda, Chile

BC $39, QC $25

Possibly the best chardonnay I tasted while in Chile. Hint of caramel, rich and buttery, but finishing on a salty, mineral note. Balance, elegance and depth – this is a model of what they should be doing in the cooler climes. (BZ)