Distilled: Demon Water

Slaves on 17th-century Caribbean sugar plantations didn’t have easy lives. So it’s not surprising they found a way to dull the pain a bit by distilling fermented molasses (a by-product of sugar production) into what they called “kill-devil.” The earliest mention, from a 1651 logbook entry, describes it as a “hot, hellish and terrible liquor.” It undoubtedly was, but that didn’t stop the British Navy from getting blotto on the stuff and hauling it away with them.

By the 18th century, rum was the most popular liquor in the American Colonies, with thousands of distilleries scattered across New England’s port towns. Business waned during the 19th century, but, after Prohibition, rum made a comeback in the United States and began to emerge as a popular spirit in Canada, as well.

North America now consumes more of it than any other continent, but only in the past decade has there been a stable of widely available, connoisseur-level rums.

It is high time to salute the preferred hooch of sailors, beach bums and anyone else with devils to kill, with a look at the various types of rum, along with some winners in each category.

White rum

Often referred to as light or silver rum, this subtle, sweet and clear spirit is the foundation of most rum-based cocktails. White rum is typically aged for a short time in uncharred oak casks or stainless-steel tanks. This liquor comes cheap, but I suggest you spend the extra cash for something such as Havana Club Anejo Blanco ($20-$30) or Lamb’s White Rum ($20-$25).

Gold rum

This category is also sometimes referred to as amber. The rum spends a few years in charred bourbon barrels, which impart the eponymous gold colour, while blunting the spirit’s inherent sweetness. It has a slightly more robust flavour than white rum and is used mostly for making mixed drinks. A good one to try is Bacardi Gold ($20-$25).

Spiced rum

A category that emerged in the mid-20th century, spiced rums are gold rums that have been infused with various flavours, most commonly cinnamon, vanilla, caramel and a variety of fruits. You can find some real clunkers in this aisle, but you’re safe in the hands of Sailor Jerry ($25-$30), the ubiquitous Captain Morgan ($25-$30) or Newfoundland’s own Screech ($20-$30).

Dark rum

Dark rum is aged at least three years in heavily charred oak barrels and carries a complex flavour profile that can rival your better whiskeys. The extra aging mellows it out and brings the sweetness back. Though it can be mixed, it’s best sipped neat, on the rocks or with a squeeze of lime. For a treat, try the Cruzan Single Barrel ($40-$50).

Super-aged rum

This relatively new category includes hooch that has been in the barrel even longer than dark rum, usually for five or more years, to bring out more flavour. Though it can be produced from a single spirit, more often than not it is a blend of oldies but goodies. Mount Gay’s 1703 Old Cask Selection ($120-$130) is a good place to start.