Still a bit awkward for the moment, Mondavi's To Kalon Reserve Fumé Blanc should evolve into an exceptional wine. It is highly marked by sweet sawdust-wood and coconut shavings on the nose. This is markedly oak-dominated at present, but underneath the wood you'll find intense green tropical fruit, candied basil and caramelized grapefruit. This has excellent fruit quality, complexity and structure — a very sizable mouthful of wine. Hold for another year or two for better integration or serve with flavourful smoked foods from the barbecue.